qws

Been having a problem with the wifes 94, Random Stalling. Seems to be quite common with this year.
A little history,
Petris Optispark- 17000 miles ago
water pump- same time

new Fuel pump, sock, filter 2 day old
ICM less than a week old

No consistant stalling, could be at intersection, when first leaving a stop sign, driving yesterday it shut off at 70 mph on the highway

Usually restarts after 2-5 mins

I pulled codes ... nothing. Until it actually shut down on highway
1. H16- Distributor ignition system, low pulse
4. H62- Engine oil temperature circuit low voltage.

So based on those 2 codes what direction should I go in?

WVZR-1

The H16 is unavoidable with Petris and others. If the OE sensor isn't used in the opti I've seen mentioned the same. Disregard is what I've seen mentioned for the H16. I believe that is so.

antfarmer2

Did you use the proper thermal grease on the ICM? And test the coil?

qws

Grease- yes
Test coil -no

How does the coil affect h62?

antfarmer2

Do not think it would might just be a bad connection on the sender. But it is a known coil trick to die when hot when going bad. does it loose spark when hot and dies?

qws

Wish I could answer that. She drives it not me.

antfarmer2

Well she is going to be riding you to fix it. check all the connections from the opti to the ICM and coil.

qws

Pulled the coil, cleaned ground up.
Checked ohms on Lo/Hi side. Doesn't make much sense that both sides read shorted on every scale.
The car will start up or could it still get spark if shorted?

antfarmer2

Souds like it is.

PatternDayTrader

If your saying you have continuity between the primary and secondary sides of the coil then that doesn't make sense to me either.

PatternDayTrader

I think if I were you I would do my best to get the car into the failed state and during the 2-5 minutes it seems to take before it will restart, I would do my diagnostics. otherwise your limited to throwing parts at it.

qws

I wish I could. I drive it and it hasn't stalled on me yet. Its to random. It could run for days fine... then bam.. it stalls. Idle/ while driving doesn't matter. All I got so far is those codes nothing else. I'm gonna pick up another coil and test the resistance to see if it reads the same. I don't see how a coil that reads as shorted on both sides can allow spark.


Just to be clear I tested the LO side first then tested the HI side. Let me correct the term "shorted", not the best word I have chosen. I'll say "open" since in theory neither the LO or Hi sides are allowing voltage thru. Since the meter is reading 1. on all scales

PatternDayTrader

Ok I thought you meant shorted together. So that's clear now. Primary and sec are not shorted together. Of course not, that would be too easy.

Its been a very, very long time since I put an ohm meter to either the pri or sec side of any coil, but there should be almost no resistance. Now I don't know what multi-meter your using but every meter I've seen reads "OL" when you have an open circuit. So when you say "1" it makes me think you just have something besides an open circuit.

Bottom line. I don't think the coil is the problem, but you need to test it while its in the failed state before you can tell for sure. I suspect you knew that already....

qws

If you look at the specs of coils they give you a primary and secondary resistance value.

antfarmer2

So how is yours looking?

qws

I had already posted the results

antfarmer2

Not againsts spec values trying to learn here.

qws

not sure what the specs are of the one I just took out of the car its either a AC Delco or Taylor. Can't remember which I put in it a few years back.

If its a Taylor
Primary Resistance:
0.440 ohms

Secondary Resistance:
3.1K ohms

So if I use a ohm meter those are the readings I should have, or at least close.

When using the ohm meter on this one I get readings of no resistance on primary ( which on my meter is 1.) and the same on the secondary.

no resistance would mean in a general term that there is no "path for voltage to pass thru".

If I had gotten a 0 then the path would be considered a short in this case.

And to even put it in a simplier example a closed contact would read 0 on a ohm meter and a open contact would read either a OL or 1. on a ohm meter
So if I have no resistance on both the primary and secondary then how is this car starting up? That at this point is my question

PatternDayTrader

No ....

No resistance means voltage and amperage will flow unrestricted.

qws

What happens when you put two of the probes together? It reads 0 which the same thing is true if you put one probe on the end of a wire and and the other probe on the same end of a wire. If your reading again is 0, then your wire is good. If its reads Open (OL/1.)the wire is bad.

So no voltage/amperage will NOT flow thru the wire..