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1990 with 396 stroker. Replaced starter with exact same type and reused same bolts (no knurls). Have intermittent issue- starter spins but does not engage and turn engine. Happened one time out of four and had to push-start the car.
I read posts here about using knurled bolts for proper alignment. I had one knurled starter bolt that cane stuck in an old used starter I had from years back, but it fits loosely in the new starter. Are there special bolts for this starter?
Knurled for sure but maybe not it's your problem. It really seems that yours is an "engagement" issue of the drive.
Do you get a "hit" on the flywheel OR just a spin?
Part#and brand of the starter motor? This information will confirm the bolt issue you mention observing.
Not sure. The starter was spinning and maybe sounded like it was contacting the flywheel, just not meshing the gears. It did not sound like grinding gears.
I should have added that I did change the flywheel. Actually I just completed a 700R4 to ZF-6 swap using a Ram 9-1/2" dual disc clutch.
The new starter is from Rockauto: ACDELCO 3371193, new not rebuilt.
I ended up taking the solenoid cover off mine while on my back staring at the portion of the starter that engages the flywheel. I pressed the solenoid in with a finger while checking the pinion gear engagement with the flywheel teeth. Maybe give that a try? You may need a shim but I checked with a few owners who had no shim and were fine. Mine didn't need a shim but I have seen the exploded diagrams of some starters that show a shim.
You also may have a starter contact problem. I tried getting by with old contacts in my starter and the. One day I heard a grinding noise that sounded like the pinion gear not engaging the flywheel. When I took the solenoid cover off my contacts had disintegrated. Those may be on the way out and making that grinding noise while the starter attempts to turn the engine over.
Last edited by 1985 Corvette; May 23, 2016 at 10:24 AM.
I ended up taking the solenoid cover off mine while on my back staring at the portion of the starter that engages the flywheel. I pressed the solenoid in with a finger while checking the pinion gear engagement with the flywheel teeth. Maybe give that a try? You may need a shim but I checked with a few owners who had no shim and were fine. Mine didn't need a shim but I have seen the exploded diagrams of some starters that show a shim.
Thanks! I read about all of the fun you had with your car's clutch awhile back. Hope its working well now. Also hope mine holds up. I went with a dual disc clutch from Ram and their hydraulic TOB and preliminary results are very good.
I also read about the procedure to test clearance between the gears using a paper clip. Bolt replacement will be a lot easier and hopfully all that's needed.
I've no idea how that starter is configured but lets guess that it's using maybe later GM specs and the later GM starter bolts have a "stepped" knurl but I thought the longer bolt was dimensionally different. These are later GM "stepped" knurl bolts. LONG - 12338064 & the SHORT 14037733. The larger diameter of the step is 10mm+ very little. This part # may be a little longer than the other mentioned, 12337924. I'll try to confirm.
Now regardless of fitment of the bolts you need to establish the clearance requirements of the drive to ring gear. I'd advise starting fresh with correct bolts and measure. Try a shim and new bolts? Requires maybe a gamblers mentality!!
Is the starter on the ground now? If yes measure the depth of each mounting hole.
I've no idea how that starter is configured but lets guess that it's using maybe later GM specs and the later GM starter bolts have a "stepped" knurl but I thought the longer bolt was dimensionally different. These are later GM "stepped" knurl bolts. LONG - 12338064 & the SHORT 14037733. The larger diameter of the step is 10mm+ very little.
Now regardless of fitment of the bolts you need to establish the clearance requirements of the drive to ring gear. I'd advise starting fresh with correct bolts and measure. Try a shim and new bolts? Requires maybe a gamblers mentality!!
Is the starter on the ground now? If yes measure the depth of each mounting hole.
Thanks WVZR-1. I have the old starter out which is exactly like the new one.
Depths are 3-5/8" and 15/16"
Had I known enough to do it, I would have checked the clearance after bolting up the flywheel before installing the bell housing. Now I can easily unbolt and move the starter back to remove the dust shield, re-bolt and check the gear engagement, if there is enough room to get to the starter gear.
Thanks WVZR-1. I have the old starter out which is exactly like the new one.
Depths are 3-5/8" and 15/16"
Had I known enough to do it, I would have checked the clearance after bolting up the flywheel before installing the bell housing. Now I can easily unbolt and move the starter back to remove the dust shield, re-bolt and check the gear engagement, if there is enough room to get to the starter gear.
Get yourself originals maybe 14097278 & 14097279 bolts and try the fit of them to your starter. The shorter of the "stepped" knurled seems to be to short to use. The longest 12337924 if it were available locally might be an interesting try. I wouldn't order but if it were on the shelf I'd try it. It's likely a harder find. The short and long "stepped" are typically only used in the later PG starter motors but who knows what's used in the one you bought. Appropriate shims should be everywhere!
***Now if when you remove the starter from the car and dimensions would allow the use of the later "stepped" bolts then they would be the preferred I'd think.
Starter bolt questions
