RIC96

I've been working on my 1996 periodically, trying to get it back in driving condition this summer. It has been sitting for eight (8) years. I put a new battery in earlier this year and tried to start it but all I got was one click on what I guess is the starter relay but no crank. After charging the battery multiple times and trying to start the car occasionally, one day I was sitting in the cockpit and checking various options like the seats, radio, hatch release, etc, with the plan to have it towed to the dealer. I turned to key to start one last time and boom... it cranked, started and ran. It now starts on the first turn of the key.

I've driven it several times since on the local residential streets, the only issue being that the battery is not charging. I've got the red battery indicator on the display and if I run it too long the dash goes crazy with low voltage warnings. Ok, so I figure I need a new alternator, no big deal. I'll get that replaced when I tow it to the dealer.

Today I wanted to move it so I get in and started the car and move it 20 feet. I get out, raise the hood and reach back into the window and shut the key off. The starter begins to crank. WTF!! I hop back into the car and turn the ignition key to run. The car starts and runs... the starter stops cranking. I again turn the key off and the starter begins cranking again. I put the car in drive, it's an auto, thinking the interlock switch will stop the starter but it still tries to crank. I finally dropped the negative cable on the battery to shut the engine down but now I'm lost. What did I do?

UPDATE: I went back out and reconnected the negative battery cable friction tight. Starter doesn't crank by itself. I turned the key to start and it cranked and started fine. Let it run for a few seconds and turned the key off. Same problem.. the starter cranks and cranks and the engine starts and runs normallly when I turn the key back to run. The only way to stop this cycle is to disconnect the negative battery lead.

Kevova

Ignition cylinder should "spring" back to run from start position. If it doesn't there could be binding in column or ignition switch causing starter to stay engaged. Normally for starter to say engaged the solenoid has failed. The contact disc is sticking not allowing current to stop flowing to armature, when 12v is switched away from start terminal of solenoid. All the low voltage cranking could have led to it's failure. I suggest to replace starter solenoid or starter your choice with a quality part. Go by local auto parts store and have battery and charging system tested - many of the will test them for free. Make sure Battery cable connections are clean and tight.

WVZR-1

OP - How many miles on this car? It would make maybe a decision easier or different than what the DEALER would mention to you when towed there. I'm guessing you've a relationship with this dealer or you wouldn't tow it there. If you've no relationship - RECONSIDER!!

If the alternator and the starter are OE/GM originals I WOULDN'T use an "off the shelf" as a replacement for either. I'd have both done by a "local" electrical shop. The 'denso starter is usually a less than $25 parts experience to repair and then you know what you have. The 'denso parts are like many/most imports, CMC and others. A local shop will have parts on the shelf in stock for the FIX. If you care to do a DIY repair/refresh on either component the parts are easily sourced.


+++ NOTE THE CHANGE TO WOULDN'T

RIC96

The cylinder does "spring back" to run when I release the key. The car starts and runs normally until I shut the ignition off. When the key is off the starter begins to crank the engine and continues to crank until I turn the key to "on". When the key is turned to the on position, the engine starts, runs normally and the starter stops cranking... until I turn the key to off. The only way to break this cycle is to drop the ground cable from the battery. I know it sounds crazy and this problem came out of the blue.

@WVZR-1
The car has 69K and I'm the original owner. I was going to take it to the dealer because I don't know a good mechanic and I thought I would be better off. The air doesn't blow cold, I think I need an alternator and the fluids should be changed so I don't want to take this to more than one shop.


UPDATE: Just forget about it guys. I went back out and now the starter cranks whenever I touch the ground lead to the battery. If the key is in the "on" position when I connect the ground lead it will start and run. If the key is off it will just crank until I drop the ground lead. I'm gonna give up and take it to someone that knows what they're doing.

VikingTrad3r

hmmm. thats an interesting one.

id start at: is starter grounded, is ignition switch faulty? where u stored the car, could there have been mice?

make sure u come back to let us know what it was.

WVZR-1

Where are you located? I understand the desire for "one stop FIX" but I'd consider and shop options for a couple/few days.

RIC96

It was stored in a garage until April when I had to move it and put it in my driveway. I don't see any evidence of rodent damage, inside or outside. I will update the thread when I get a resolution.

@WVZR-1
I'm in metro Detroit and I asked in an earlier thread if anyone had recommendations on a trustworthy local shop but I didn't get any strong responses. I lived in Dallas for sixteen years prior to moving to NYC and then back to Detroit and I had a lot of good resources in Texas. The move to NYC was what prompted me to park the vette for so long... I didn't need nor want to deal with a car there. But I'll check around. I don't need it as primary transportation so I've got time but it would have been nice to have it running for the Woodward cruise!