BrianCunningham

Managed to break my breaker bar.

I'll get another one and perhaps another impact gun
My battery powered one won't cut it.

18 years of ownership never had to undo one.

WVZR-1

If it's drive-able, drive by a truck shop have them spin it off and secure it for the drive home. Do your work tighten it best you can and return to the shop for a final torque confirmation.

rklessdriver

I use a corded electric impact or a cheater pipe on a breaker bar when that won't do it.
Will

cmontel727

i used a dewalt 1/2 electric impact came right off!

STEVEN13

I used a pipe (about 2.0') and breaker bar. Also spray WD40 or similar.

Good Luck!

Aardwolf

First remove with that on my car I had to put a three foot piece of pipe over the end of the breaker bar and stand on it.

Tom400CFI

Heat. Heat is the answer. Heat it and it will come off. Use heat.


.

JrRifleCoach

I used a 1/2" breakerbar and a 3 foot cheater pipe. Presoaked the threads with MMO.
Had a friend lean on the bar till it held his weight, then smacked the socket with a hammer.
It took a few tries as he "bounced" the lever as I hit the socket.
Hey. It worked. We did the math and figured a 5 foot pipe and 200 lbs should have popped it.

I should have gone to a truck shop like WVZR-1 suggested.

mtwoolford

honest to god license exam question: "How do you measure 800 foot pounds of torque ?"

answer: put a 200 pound engineer on the end of a four foot bar

Hey, it never hurts to go around to used tool stores / flea markets / pawn shops and pick up a used 3/4 inch breaker bar and a few heavy wall six sided 3/4 inch drive sockets for those situations where nothing else is gonna work.

JrRifleCoach

That's a good use for engineers. Or wheel chocks.......

hcbph

First off, HF sells a longer 1/2" breaker bar. Now for the nut itself, one way is remove the center insert from the wheel and with it on the ground, have at it and you should be able to break it loose. Another is support the car well with the wheel off, set the parking brake and go at it. I did the 2d method on mine and it worked out well.

When it comes time to put it back together, if you don't have a torque wrench that goes high enough, HF again has one that will go to up to 300 ft pounds though it is a 3/4" version but you can get a 3/4" socket.

I could justify getting the torque wrench and socket as I used them on my truck too.

I agree a torque wrench would be simpler but mine was broken at the time I did mine.

blackozvet

you seem to be very good at breaking things Brian !

Dt86

Lol! Very true!

Fortunately mine came off with a breaker bar but I used an impact to put it back on and it stripped the threads! So I'd be careful if you're planning to use one. Guess we have the same luck.

BOOT77

Mine came off with a good impact, but my car is very clean n from Arizona.

I have a friend who has broken several 1/2 breaker bars, HF or local auto parts store brands. I've broken the HF chrome extensions or adapters and the HF impact actually twist. I was doing the rear wheel bearings and used a craftsman 3/8 chrome for one side but had to run out n stopped by HF and while there bought some impact 3/8 extensions on sale, next side wouldn't come loose and later for some reason I tried the chrome again n they came right off.

Also HF has 3/4 breaker bar I got long ago for when I couldn't use air, use a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter and I use a pipe w/o breaking or bending that breaker bar. HF does have good stuff but kinda 50/50.

BrianCunningham

I'm definitely having that kind of year

I'll check out electric impact guns.
No airtools as of yet.

Tom400CFI

You know....HEATING IT, is way, way less expensive than electric impact guns (which aren't that powerful anyway). Try heating it. Heat works. If you heat it, it will come off. Use heat.

70ZZ3 96LT4

How many pounds are you going to torque the nut to when you install it?

Purple92

For a nut that's only supposed to be torqued to less than 250 ft lbs - it can be a real bear to get off.

First off - WD-40 is not a good penetrating oil. Most serious wrench turners prefer either PB Blaster or Croil. I agree with using heat - but remember - there is a bearing in there - (and the stub shaft is heat treated steel - which doesn't want to be re-heat treated in the field), so don't go crazy on the heat.

A 3/4 breaker bar with a 3/4" drive 36mm socket is going to run you more than a few dollars, and while you can adapt the 3/4 drive down to 1/2 drive - those Adapters tend to be the first thing to fail when you put the pipe over the breaker bar - and I'm not aware of any tool supplier that warrants their reducing adapters (other than Harbor Freight - but that's another story)....

Most 1/2 drive electric impacts do somewhere in the 200 ft lb - 300 ft lb range. The better 1/2 inch drive air guns do at least 500 ft lb - some more. BUT - as wvzr-1 said - when you move up to 3/4 drive air powered guns - those things are beasts - they happily do 750 ft lb to 1,000 ft lb all day long. And in the case of the axle nut - you actually have the room to get one of those big guns in there.... There are very few nuts/bolts one of those 3/4 drive air guns won't "persuade" to unscrew (or break). Places that do lots of truck work will have 3/4 air wrenches available and will probably be happy to "remove" that nut for you (1 7/16" is a very close equivalent to a 36mm) for a few $$$ or possibly you could offer the tech a couple of nice cold adult beverages for his trouble.......

GOOD LUCK !!!

Christi@n

Excuseme gentelmen are you speaking about 36mm rear spindle nut?

I've made it some times and there weren't particoular troubles. Just heat and breaker bar, or breaker bar only

BrianCunningham

Went out and got a 3/4 drive breaker bar and appropriate socket

I'm STANDING ON it and it will won't move

Hit the end of the breaker bar with a sledge, still nothing.