I searched under 'VATS' and was unable to find if this was a symptom/indicator related to a VATS problem or some other issue.

My car has been sitting for way too long, life has intervened, however, I've managed to clear out enough crap in the garage to get back to the car and hope to be able to spend more time on it going forward.

Anyway, before I parked the car, I was having problems with the positive battery cable. When I got back to the car, I found that the PO had replaced the bolt with one that did not engage well with the threads on the battery. Replaced the bolt with one that isn't stripped, but found the battery wouldn't take a charge (no trickle charger - although I have one now). Replaced the Walmart special with an Interstate and made sure it was fully charged before putting it in.

The underhood lights came on when I hooked up the cables, but when I tried to start it, there was a click from the right side of the car - no engine crank at all - and the underhood lights went off.

There are two keys on the key ring, so I tried the second one and nothing. I waited for a few minutes, probably about the 4 minutes that is supposed to be the VATS timeout and the lights came back on, tried the key again and 'click' again and the lights all went dead again.

Does VATS kill enough of the electrical for the underhood lights to go out? If so, I will start there. If not, anybody have any ideas on where to start?

Thanks

 

Clean your battery cables both ends and inspect the cables as well. Does not sound like vats. Clean under the battery bolts too.

 

BIG TIME
Since your getting the Click on the Right side the starter is getting the request to crank(VAT'S accepted key) you have a fresh Battery but you are not getting the Benefit of it, So unhook the Battery get under car check the ground check the starter connection. I think something is loose probably by battery it's common that all lights black out and stay out when you crank with poor connection, one way of finding the loose connection is when the lights go out give connections a shake. when lights come back your in the area.

 

That tells the story. NOT VATS. Bad battery or a bad connection somewhere.

 

Pull the error codes. If you have an error code 46 then you have a VATS problem.

Your description suggests a poor connection between the battery and starter solenoid.

 

Poor battery connection.

 

You need to get under the hood and under the car to check all the wiring and connections. Especially the grounds. Mice love to gnaw on copper wire.

It does not sound like a VATS issue. I had those on my '89 IROC. When that failed I got nothing when turning the key. No click, no attempt to start.

 

Thanks everyone! I had been working on cleaning the various grounds after I got the car, looks like it's time to go after the rest of them!

Critter damage to the wiring could be an issue, I had to replace the spark plug wires right after I got it home because they were pretty well gnawed.

Off to the garage!

 

Unhook the battery when your done for the day till it is proven. A fire is not good.


Oh **** just noticed your name.

 

Sure sounds like a poor connection, could be either positive or negative side of the mix.

 

Yeah... I'll put up some pictures around the 4th of July. I have a professional display license and shoot community sized shows. Have had shells as big as 10" on my own shows and have helped on ones with up to 16".

Good times - until something goes 'Oops' Not a common occurrence - and we have safety rules and equipment in place, but it can still liven up your day!

And on the electrical side, I recently retired after 37 years with an electrical utility. Trust me, I'm careful around electrical equipment, even 12V.

But thanks, still good advice!