When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
does anyone know any upgrades for the dana44 hd and spider gears?
Hi I have dana44 hd to rebuild.
There's a cyro place near me so I might cyro some of the parts. I would like an idea what parts I should cyro and what shouldn't be cyro'ed. I'd think almost all the metal parts. Has anyone tried to have any of the rear end parts treated with a friction coating like they put on pistons? I would think that would keep them from some problems. Like the spider gear from friction welding itself to the pin. Anyone got any other ideas that could upgrade a rearend. One idea I heard about but am not sure about to do is to grind a little clearance on the pin under the spider gears. The idea is to allow oil to better flow under the spider gear. Anyone tried doing any of these or have any other ways to upgrade one? Thanks
Has anyone tried to have any of the rear end parts treated with a friction coating like they put on pistons? I would think that would keep them from some problems. Like the spider gear from friction welding itself to the pin. One idea I heard about but am not sure about to do is to grind a little clearance on the pin under the spider gears. The idea is to allow oil to better flow under the spider gear.
When launching or accelerating hard, your wheels should be spinning the same speed. They don't always do that, but the job of the Posi unit is to try to make that happen. At any rate, if you're doing a "one tire fryer" so badly that you need to worry about welding (!), or friction reducing techniques on the spider gears...I'd think a reassessment of your driving or your set up is in order.
I'd think ensuring that the diff is built properly (tightly), it has good oil and is maintained is good enough, and if you believe in cryo, then I'd do the axle yokes.
I tried the cryo route with the posi and still broke the spiders, and outer axles. The biggest thing is to pack the clutches tight, and replace them once they show the slightest wear. I think Tom's differentials sells a modified pin, but he's updating his catalog.
If you want to keep the Dana 44 you can eliminate the spider gears with a solid steel true-track.
I had one and with no problems hitting 1.42 60ft times.
I now have a solid Dana 60 rear.
..... I second the Eaton True-Trac ... It works ... my only peeve is that it acts like a non-posi/open diff until it locks , and its heavy ..... the welding of spider gears will happen in a factory posi unit when the clutches have loosened up and you start doing one tire burn-outs ... at that point you need to change the posi clutch plates ... a one tire burn-out is possible with a True-Trac if you don't hit it hard enough or if you only get one tire wet in the water box .....
Can the torsion gears be replaced or do you have to replace the complete Tru-Trac?
They list a part# for them but nobody at Eaton returns an e-mail or phone message about it. They don't look like they would/could be set up any different then just sliding them in. I'd gladly put in a kit instead of buying a new $800 posi every few years. The housing it self is a heavy duty piece and never shows wear, just the gears. Here is a old pic but it wasn't the worse one last time.
They list a part# for them but nobody at spicer returns an e-mail or phone message about it. They don't look like they would/could be set up any different then just sliding them in. I'd gladly put in a kit instead of buying a new $800 posi every few years. The housing it self is a heavy duty piece and never shows wear, just the gears. Here is a old pic but it wasn't the worse one last time.
Thank you, what rear tires and pressure were you running for your best ETs?
Thanks for the replies guys. I'm more interested in road racing and autocross than drag racing so a spool is out. I'm not saying I wouldn't wouldn't beat on it or drag race, just not much. How would a eaton true track handle road racing or autocross? I'm worried no matter what you do to these rearends that they will still be weak so I'm debating where and how much it's worth sinking into this.
I feel that your concern about a lack of strength is unfounded -especially for a road course. I also can't imagine how you'd weld spider gears on a road course, friction treatments or not.
I think that you should give your diff a good checking, ensure all clearances and specs are proper, run some good lube in it, then go run the wee out of it.
How modified is your car? I rebuilt my clutch packs in my D44 last winter after 5 years of auto-x use. Fairly heavy auto-x use at that. They needed it but it was not horrible. Back lash was still in spec and car had about 68K on it. Good fluid goes a long way.
Auto-x and road course use does not hurt the differential as much as the shock loads of drag racing. Road course is actually probably easier on the diff. compared to auto-x. Auto-x you turn MUCH more and more often and tighter. You also apply more torque to the drive wheels as you tend to run lower gears. Road course stuff, depending on the track I tend to use 3-5th. I never launch the car either like I do in auto-x. Heat is a factor with road course use. Again how are you using the car and how modified is it?
I agree, I never broke a rear at a autox or high speed event. Always at the dragstrip on a hard launch. I would just rebuild your current one with a new clutch pack if it's bad. Should hold up fine.
The car is mildly built. apx. 330 h.p., has headers, mild cam, cold air intake, and borla exhaust . I just wanted to get it as strong as I could while I was rebuilding it. I know I can't put too much into rebuilding it.
01-04-2017, 07:39 PM
does anyone know any upgrades for the dana44 hd and spider gears?
