Amsoil synchromesh am I right for 5w30
#21
this has been posted since about 1999 on the internet. that website has t been updated in years
this is junk science. even if the results are true and unbiased...there is no control comparison. so this experiment admits mass loss of synchros (with using this castrol crap)and recommends changing it 10-12k miles....
how does that compare to gm syncromesh
my experience was that it eats synchros. i know this bc after 200 miles of running it my fluid was so sparkly -full of copper flecks.
contrast that to 20k of running syncromesh and i saw perhaps 2 or 3 flecks
who do you believe more ? gm engineers or something some guy who posts on the internet ???
how do you even know if the names/titlea mentioned in the article exist? how do you know this isnt someone trying to steer you to castrol tws 10w-60 that he bought and intends to make a profit on(or intended to make a profit on back in 1999)?
this is junk science. even if the results are true and unbiased...there is no control comparison. so this experiment admits mass loss of synchros (with using this castrol crap)and recommends changing it 10-12k miles....
how does that compare to gm syncromesh
my experience was that it eats synchros. i know this bc after 200 miles of running it my fluid was so sparkly -full of copper flecks.
contrast that to 20k of running syncromesh and i saw perhaps 2 or 3 flecks
who do you believe more ? gm engineers or something some guy who posts on the internet ???
how do you even know if the names/titlea mentioned in the article exist? how do you know this isnt someone trying to steer you to castrol tws 10w-60 that he bought and intends to make a profit on(or intended to make a profit on back in 1999)?
I really can't see zfdoc wanting to sell Castrol and make a profit on it, I don't think he even sells oil.
I've put over 40k on the Castrol oil and have changed it 3 times and each time had zero bronze specs, use whatever you want but Castrol does not destroy synchros atleast not on my transmissions.
Please explain how it's "eating synchro after 200 miles" if you aren't grinding synchros how can an oil just dissolve them?
I'm not trying to be a smart *** I'm curious because ive never heard of this before.
#22
Race Director
I really can't see zfdoc wanting to sell Castrol and make a profit on it, I don't think he even sells oil.
I've put over 40k on the Castrol oil and have changed it 3 times and each time had zero bronze specs, use whatever you want but Castrol does not destroy synchros atleast not on my transmissions.
Please explain how it's "eating synchro after 200 miles" if you aren't grinding synchros how can an oil just dissolve them?
I'm not trying to be a smart *** I'm curious because ive never heard of this before.
I've put over 40k on the Castrol oil and have changed it 3 times and each time had zero bronze specs, use whatever you want but Castrol does not destroy synchros atleast not on my transmissions.
Please explain how it's "eating synchro after 200 miles" if you aren't grinding synchros how can an oil just dissolve them?
I'm not trying to be a smart *** I'm curious because ive never heard of this before.
zfdoc is a great guy, he has helped me out. he has his areas of expertise
my bad experiences with castrol *may* be related to:
1. my bluetag remanufactured trans (it was like that when i bought it at 26k miles)
2. hurst short throw shifter
the 'eating' the synchros i refer to isnt a corrosiveness issue but more of a grind-shift issue.
when i was running it, i mentioned it had a tendency to grind during shifts (esp 1-2). also had to abort drag runs bc the lever wouldnt physically move from 1-2, at high rpm shifts.
so if its working great than great! your trans must not be sensitive to this stuff. many people have reported smoother shifting with it - i am not one of those people.
ive been reporting for over a decade about how bad my experience has been with castrol 10w-60.
if you are having good luck (no grinded gears), i would not expect to see metal flecks in your trans fluid.
be on the lookout for those. if you see them, be aware its not normal and something is eating the synchros.
#26
Race Director
There's a nice video here about gear box lubrication, about difference type of fluid viscositiy
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=s7ZS1t7Y3po
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=s7ZS1t7Y3po
the castrol is a unique motor oil designed for bmw engines
the syncromesh is designed for transmissions
i imagine there are 'modifiers' that are put in there for use with transmission
i know the original 5w-30 zf6 factory fill oil (no longer available), is not motor oil.
when i could still get it (around the year 2000-01) it came in gm specific bottles and i even believe it said something about it being transmission gearbox oil on it .
#28
Drifting
Thread Starter
This is the old Redline MTL.. Was red like ATF, when I filled trans last time on March 2015 and 63000 miles. now are 75000 and fluid turns to brown...
Though not so much copper flecks
Though not so much copper flecks
Last edited by Christi@n; 03-05-2017 at 05:16 PM.
#29
Drifting
Thread Starter
I've made some miles this afternoon, and is hard to say what's better amsoil or red line, 'cause fresh fluid is always better...
Though AFAIR, seems that fresh AMSOIL is a little bit better compared to fresh redline MTL that i've just drain out
seems AMSOIL allows more smooth and soft shifting
Though AFAIR, seems that fresh AMSOIL is a little bit better compared to fresh redline MTL that i've just drain out
seems AMSOIL allows more smooth and soft shifting
Last edited by Christi@n; 03-05-2017 at 05:19 PM.
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1993C4LT1 (03-16-2017)