84 - Gen 1 Twin Turbo 383 Winter Project
#63
I think it is really a matter of perspective.
The second you made the decision to install turbos, you decided to create problems.
The 2400hp vette is cool if you want the madmax look. It would just shift the problems some where else. It would be all about heat management with the hood. Might be easier to cut stuff up (hood) then fab it all the way under the car.
If it was a porsche 918, it would look right at home. Maybe if you just had the exhaust outlet showing it would look clean on the car like the 918.
As far as boost itch, when you go that far, you would need to install an intercooler to deal with all the heat. Water/meth injection, dual fuel system, e85, whatever method you choose. More fab work, front mount. water to air, etc blah blah blah.
Still need the wastegates or you are going to get boost creep etc...
I saw that 2400 hp video back in 2015. Hate the editing, but it seems like the 2400 hp is just about the right amount to be very dangerous.
The second you made the decision to install turbos, you decided to create problems.
The 2400hp vette is cool if you want the madmax look. It would just shift the problems some where else. It would be all about heat management with the hood. Might be easier to cut stuff up (hood) then fab it all the way under the car.
If it was a porsche 918, it would look right at home. Maybe if you just had the exhaust outlet showing it would look clean on the car like the 918.
As far as boost itch, when you go that far, you would need to install an intercooler to deal with all the heat. Water/meth injection, dual fuel system, e85, whatever method you choose. More fab work, front mount. water to air, etc blah blah blah.
Still need the wastegates or you are going to get boost creep etc...
I saw that 2400 hp video back in 2015. Hate the editing, but it seems like the 2400 hp is just about the right amount to be very dangerous.
#65
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Bill, I have taken your advice a couple of times now and I am very thankful for your insight. However, I disagree with your perspective. I don't think adding turbos or anything else adds to the issue list. My opinion for the 2 cents it's worth is more about workmanship. Poorly thought out or half a@@ work is what causes the problems. Generally home work and doing things the right way can create a reliable car that works well. Now if you want to make 2400 hp, be able to drive cross country and get 30 mpg on a $1500 budget, you better invest in good tools that you always carry. But I fully expect to have great power with low street able boost, not overheating in traffic and not needing a support vehicle for trips. Right now I'm having fun, this is much more of a way to unwind for me. I'll get this wrapped up in a month or so, hopefully have a great fun filled summer of cruising and meets and in the fall, I'll gather up parts for next winter's issues. No real progress to report tonight, family day stuff. I'm away from home next week on business, but that's good timing as I'm waiting on parts anyways. Just my 2 cents. Disagree or not, I still want to thank everyone for all the comments and advice. It has not fallen on deaf ears. Been turning wrenches for many years now, but there are always better ideas and folks that have probably forgotten more than I will ever know.
#66
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A quick update. Some family medical issues with the 8 year old daughter had taken priority. I think all is back to normal now and I can do is up the build. Hood should go back on today. Pics to follow later.
#67
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Front view
Front view take 2
Drivers side
Passengers side
Really quick update of today's work. Playing with the cold air sideside plumbing. I will TIG weld the tubing and eliminate almost all of the silicone connectors and clamps once everything is figured out. Still have some welding to finish on the hot side as well. Plenty of stuff to do. The hood will go on today and we should see how everything fits. I thought I had ordered enough AN fittings to wrap up the plumbing. Nope, still short parts. Also waiting on the 1" stainless pipe to finish the wastegates.
Front view take 2
Drivers side
Passengers side
Really quick update of today's work. Playing with the cold air sideside plumbing. I will TIG weld the tubing and eliminate almost all of the silicone connectors and clamps once everything is figured out. Still have some welding to finish on the hot side as well. Plenty of stuff to do. The hood will go on today and we should see how everything fits. I thought I had ordered enough AN fittings to wrap up the plumbing. Nope, still short parts. Also waiting on the 1" stainless pipe to finish the wastegates.
#68
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Ok, hoods on bit need an inch more on the main hood scoop, probably will go 2". Also have to remove the spots on the hood where the cross fire air cleaner sealed to the hood. Removing the air cleaner parts should be easy, I'm thinking I should get everything adjusted, take a cutoff wheel and cut along the outside edge of the existing scoop, raise it up till everything clears. Add an inch to be sure, screw some aluminum strips between the hood and hood scoop (which is lose from the hood now) to hold everything in place, then fiberglass the scoop back onto the hood. Sand, apply more fiberglass, repeat until it looks right. I haven't done much fiberglass work, so really looking for feedback. Thanks in advance.
#69
I am very interested in this fiberglass part. Mainly the cutting. I have not done any glass work involving bonding regular resin to a corvette body part. I have made plenty of custom things like a license plate intake, and subwoofers, Speaker housings, Air filter box, and non car stuff.
The corvette body is made of SMC. Word on the forum is regular store type resin does not stick to it.
I think you will need special resin or you will have issues of it losing the bond over time.
The corvette body is made of SMC. Word on the forum is regular store type resin does not stick to it.
I think you will need special resin or you will have issues of it losing the bond over time.
#70
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That's interesting. I always thought that it was just fiberglass. Don't know enough about glass work. Time to research and hopefully hear from the experts. This maybe come an issue quickly as I'm not sure how I would gain the inch without going up with the scoop.
#71
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Ok, as usual Bill is right on the money. It appears that the term "fiberglass" on a corvette is mis-leading. So after some good quality time spent on Google which I can never get back, I'm more confused than ever. Some articles give special 3m part numbers to repair corvette body panels, while other articles use standard marine grade supplies. Check out this article from Super Chevy working on a 84 hood. http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/pai...s-body-panels/. Getting different answers, but I'm sure someone on here has done work on body panels, any advice or tips?
#72
I did some looking around. Post #9 also #13...
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...smc-resin.html
SMC seems to have evolved over the years with the C3-4-5 and so on.
It looks like evercoat makes a resin . Evercoat PlastiKWorks Seems to be made for SMC
You might want to contact the company and see what they have for the C4, and what cloth/mat you need to use.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...smc-resin.html
SMC seems to have evolved over the years with the C3-4-5 and so on.
It looks like evercoat makes a resin . Evercoat PlastiKWorks Seems to be made for SMC
You might want to contact the company and see what they have for the C4, and what cloth/mat you need to use.
Last edited by bill mcdonald; 04-30-2017 at 11:01 PM.
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BV85 (05-01-2017)
#73
84 turbo
1966ponyguy Where did you get your radiator made and what size tubes in it? You do great work. I don't have your talent but have been keeping up with this post. Can't wait to see your hood. TIA
#74
Race Director
I have to wonder what you can get for your hood on resale? If $500-$600, then consider buying a hi-rise hood from ACI. They USED to be made/sold by Toledo Pro until ACI bought the molds. These hoods are the best fitting aftermarket you can find, And, (if nothing has changed) fit as well as a factory hood. They have a 2 3/4" high rise.
The difference in price vs reworking your own might be worth consideration. Plus, either hood will need to be painted.
The difference in price vs reworking your own might be worth consideration. Plus, either hood will need to be painted.
#75
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Ok, first of all thanks to all who have provided feedback.
Now, the radiator was picked up the radiator at Corvette homecoming last year. I looked at the box, no markings. It's a 4 row and I Don't know the tubing size. Seems like it was around $200. Not much help.
Bill you are the man. I will give them a call
I will also check out what a great condition 84 hood is worth. Maybe I am going about this in the wrong direction.
Now, the radiator was picked up the radiator at Corvette homecoming last year. I looked at the box, no markings. It's a 4 row and I Don't know the tubing size. Seems like it was around $200. Not much help.
Bill you are the man. I will give them a call
I will also check out what a great condition 84 hood is worth. Maybe I am going about this in the wrong direction.
#76
Drifting
Why the long pipes around everything?
Rotate compressor housing on passenger side 180 degrees.
Make a new carb hat with intake ports 180 degrees apart and with short bends to the turbos welded on.
Also you can put the BOV's on the carb hat.
Rotate compressor housing on passenger side 180 degrees.
Make a new carb hat with intake ports 180 degrees apart and with short bends to the turbos welded on.
Also you can put the BOV's on the carb hat.
Last edited by JoBy; 05-02-2017 at 01:25 AM.
#77
search
"PRO 4 ROW Aluminum Radiator FOR 84-90 CHEVY CORVETTE "
Keep us updated on the hood.
#78
Drifting
If you want a simple belt routing then you can get a standard rotation short water pump and use the alternator as belt tensioner. The flat water pump pulley works well on the inside of the belt also.
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JoBy (05-02-2017)
#80
Drifting
Bill , I should make an update to my build thread ... it is long over due now.
The major changes are a new motor built on a Dart block, new radiator, air filters and ducting.
New MaxxECU computer with a lot of new features like translission control and traction control.
Next thing is to move and replace the wastegate because I get 24 psi boost on a 7 psi spring. The 50mm WG is wide open but does not flow enough to keep boost down.
The major changes are a new motor built on a Dart block, new radiator, air filters and ducting.
New MaxxECU computer with a lot of new features like translission control and traction control.
Next thing is to move and replace the wastegate because I get 24 psi boost on a 7 psi spring. The 50mm WG is wide open but does not flow enough to keep boost down.