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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
Originally Posted by PoweredbyVette
Also while in there i noticed a plug thats damaged,i have no idea what it is or what it is called if you can identify it please?
I agree the 2nd pic is the KS. I didn't see if anyone addressed the first picture -- which is actually a "plug". That looks like the connector for the O2 sensor to me.
Also...I'd be curious what kind of head gasket WW7 used. We rebuilt around the same year. I used Cometic head gaskets. Plus...I agree there are a fair share of alum-headed 350 head gasket failures (usually in the rear). They were usually attributed to the combo of cooling irregularities and dissimilar metals (head/block). I'm sure WW7 knows this. I'd be curious if you maintained the rear x-over pipe too.
I agree the 2nd pic is the KS. I didn't see if anyone addressed the first picture -- which is actually a "plug". That looks like the connector for the O2 sensor to me.
Also...I'd be curious what kind of head gasket WW7 used. We rebuilt around the same year. I used Cometic head gaskets. Plus...I agree there are a fair share of alum-headed 350 head gasket failures (usually in the rear). They were usually attributed to the combo of cooling irregularities and dissimilar metals (head/block). I'm sure WW7 knows this. I'd be curious if you maintained the rear x-over pipe too.
Hi Gregg,
When my engine was built 7 years ago the head gasket used was a Felpro (FEL-7733PT2) , this is the same gasket I used this summer when I replaced them, (these are excellent gaskets).. I believe my head gasket failure was due to using the intake manifold gaskets that have the restriction holes at the back...I removed the small rear pipe on my intake manifold when I installed the Edelbrock intake, and I believe the combination of using restricted intake gaskets and no rear water pipe caused excessive heat at the rear of the Dart heads and over the 7 years caused head gasket failure...When I reassembled the motor this time I used the full flow intake gaskets (FEL-1205) to help even out the temperture of the heads...I took several readings with a laser temperture gauge a few years ago and found the rear of the heads ran much higher temps then the front of the heads with the restrictor gaskets..With the full flow 1205 gaskets now installed the front and rear of the heads are very close in temperture...
So my conclusion is , If your going to run restrictor intake gaskets ,you should leave the rear water pipe in place. Evidently the small pipe helps cool the rear of the heads enough to stop from blowing head gaskets...My suggestion is , if you get away from a stock intake setup like you and I did , just run the full flow open intake gaskets and you won't have a problem, with or without using the small rear water pipe....WW
You said you have a Factory service manual, go to page 6A1-8 and it explains how to adjust the valves the easiest way possible.. You only have to get the engine up on "#1 top dead center" adjust 8 valves, then turn the motor over one full turn , and adjust the other 8 valves..For a completely stock top end motor this works as well as any method, plus it's very easy to do..Just follow the book.... If you get a new knock sensor, make sure you torque it to the proper spec ( it's in the FSM) , they don't work properly unless they are torqued correctly...WW
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Thanks man you got the page spot on in fsm,i am getting the knock and cable soon
I agree the 2nd pic is the KS. I didn't see if anyone addressed the first picture -- which is actually a "plug". That looks like the connector for the O2 sensor to me.
Also...I'd be curious what kind of head gasket WW7 used. We rebuilt around the same year. I used Cometic head gaskets. Plus...I agree there are a fair share of alum-headed 350 head gasket failures (usually in the rear). They were usually attributed to the combo of cooling irregularities and dissimilar metals (head/block). I'm sure WW7 knows this. I'd be curious if you maintained the rear x-over pipe too.
thanks man,The plug is for the Knock sensor i unplugged it.I purchased some mahle gaskets and bolts,dont know if they are good or not will see.It does seem they all have a similar point of failure,im going to upgrade the whole cooling system once its running correctly.
Any fellow 89'ers know what replacement head bolts I need that come with the thick washers like OEM? And where I can purchase them?Please help,emailed arp and didn't receive a response.Could really use a vet 89vette owner reply.
Any fellow 89'ers know what replacement head bolts I need that come with the thick washers like OEM? And where I can purchase them?Please help,emailed arp and didn't receive a response.Could really use a vet 89vette owner reply.
Go to Summitracing.com and get the small block 350 ARP bolts , they are for all small block chevys... These come with the thick washers , just make sure you put them on with the beveled side up, and make sure to use thread sealer on the threads , and lube on the bolt and washer.. Unlike most bolts you can reuse ARP bolts over again... I would look them up for you ,but Im at Dennys having breakfast....WW
PS... Didn't you already have Mahle bolts for this motor..? If so you could just buy thick washers from a hardware store...
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I assumed that as well but i was hoping it can be something else? Can it also possibly be a leaky manifold gasket? There was also dropplets of water coming from the tailpipes but that stopped and smoked continued.Before i replaced the water pump the car overheated bad.Oil temp and coolant temp got really hot over 250.
you just answered your own question,''car over-heated BAD'',,sorry but it looks like you popped a head gasket
Go to Summitracing.com and get the small block 350 ARP bolts , they are for all small block chevys... These come with the thick washers , just make sure you put them on with the beveled side up, and make sure to use thread sealer on the threads , and lube on the bolt and washer.. Unlike most bolts you can reuse ARP bolts over again... I would look them up for you ,but Im at Dennys having breakfast....WW
PS... Didn't you already have Mahle bolts for this motor..? If so you could just buy thick washers from a hardware store...
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Thanks man, i was looking at summit wasnt sure if some came with washers some of the descriptions are vague and reps are not completely sure when i ask...I also appreciate all your reply's,yes had the crap mahle bolts and head gasket kit.mahle bolts didnt come with washers and that company claims its not needed because of advanced bolt material and incorporated washer in design,also the head gasket kit they list as compatible on autozone was completely wrong and they didnt let me leave a comment so i can warn others not to buy that because it will never work.Its probably still up listed as compatible even after i brought it to their attention.Didnt want to trust any of their stuff after all that so i sent it all back, i saw alot of aluminum shavings jut after 1st 23lbs torque set.I could only imagine after a few thousand miles of hitting bumps and normal use.
That was a year old question but thanks,was a gasket and valve seals,need the correct replacement head bolts if you have a part# by any chance for reference so i dont order the wrong set please.@dmaxx3500 , @WW7?
Last edited by PoweredbyVette; 05-11-2018 at 06:24 PM.
The ARP bolts I bought at Summit had number #134-3601 on the box.. These have a standard 6 point head design...The bolts come with lube, but get a tube of the ARP thread sealer....You can't go wrong with ARP......WW
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The ARP bolts I bought at Summit had number #134-3601 on the box.. These have a standard 6 point head design...The bolts come with lube, but get a tube of the ARP thread sealer....You can't go wrong with ARP......WW
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thanks again man i ended up buying those earlier glad its the right ones. Wasnt a listing problem for the gaskets either mahle seems to think those are correct , constantly had to argue with techs/engineers about the bolts and gaskets
The ARP bolts I bought at Summit had number #134-3601 on the box.. These have a standard 6 point head design...The bolts come with lube, but get a tube of the ARP thread sealer....You can't go wrong with ARP......WW
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Would you please tell me if its normal to have a extra hole in the gasket and head on the side? (I circled it in red ) Theres no matching hole on the block.The new gasket matches the old one exactly but seeing that doesn't seem right.
Last edited by PoweredbyVette; 05-25-2018 at 03:23 AM.
Reason: added pics
My guess us universal gaskets.
if you put it on the drivers side, it will work, passenger side. it works.
if not, then you would have a Left and Right only gasket? Easier to just make one fit all.
My guess us universal gaskets.
if you put it on the drivers side, it will work, passenger side. it works.
if not, then you would have a Left and Right only gasket? Easier to just make one fit all.
Thanks thats what i that as well,the head has a actual hole though that corresponds with that blind hole on the block thats what was confusing.Those felpro's that have the stripes can go anyway up as long as not marked.Checked other stock block and heads its the same.I guess thats just how they designed it.
Anyone know what the name of this connector that cut me? The (f) prongs came out of the connector cable end and stuck to the (m) prong it plugs into,
needs to be replaced .
Anyone know what the name of this connector that cut me? The (f) prongs came out of the connector cable end and stuck to the (m) prong it plugs into,
needs to be replaced .
Looks like the brake fluid level sensor connector.
Gasket as said is fine, unless those are torque to yield bolts which I believe they arent just reuse them.
Had my water pump go too, along with a lower hose eventually blowing off. It was combustion gases in the system. Wasnt til it was in the middle of the smog you could smell coolant and finally see smoke.
Cleaned the system out, guy said "It sure burns clean"
Looks like you are on your way, about every L98 does this.
does anyone know if a triangle heat riser flange gasket is needed on the exhaust manifold/exhaust? My gasket kit didnt come with them,but i see some that do and i see other previous year c4 that use them but they seem hard to find for the 89?
12-02-2017, 01:17 AM
.. If you get a new knock sensor, make sure you torque it to the proper spec ( it's in the FSM) , they don't work properly unless they are torqued correctly...WW
..WW
