torque converters for TPI street 700r4
04-24-2017, 11:36 PM
#21
Burning Brakes
You might want to try Castrol multi vehicle GM approved synthetic not the import multi vehicle. I use it and am happy with it. Castrol tech recommended. Withstands high temps. part#06519
Last edited by A Peter C4; 04-25-2017 at 08:17 PM.
04-25-2017, 12:21 AM
#22
Melting Slicks
04-25-2017, 01:31 AM
#23
Pro
My trans isn't a living organism and doesn't get used to anything. I also heard old wives tales of that concerning the engine oil, leaving battery on concrete, fuel pump will burn up if you don't have over a quarter tank, etc. Violated all those rules before.
How do you swap a converter? I would think you have to remove the trans. You'd have to disconnect the lines so blow them out. While it is out, you might as well change the filter which drains the pan and the trans itself.
How do you swap a converter? I would think you have to remove the trans. You'd have to disconnect the lines so blow them out. While it is out, you might as well change the filter which drains the pan and the trans itself.
All you have to do to swap the converter is get the trans back and down a little; it is a good idea to loosen the lines on the trans and disconnect from the radiator, but they do not have to come off/out. If one is intent upon flushing them, why not do it when they are connected to the cooler and clean that out as well? I also take out the oil pressure fitting on the top rear of the block and remove the radiator hoses to prevent possibly cracking plastic radiator end tanks. Even is one decides to drop the pan you only get about 4qts. out of it, and maybe 2.5 from the converter. A little will come out of the tailshaft housing if it is not plugged, but that fluid (and the fluid that will drain from the dipstick tube orfice) is from the same cavities as the fluid resting in the pan. Trans takes 12 or so after a fresh rebuild. Point being, there is no way to change all of the fluid without complete disassembly, therefore during a normal converter replacement there will be new/old fluid mixing going on.
Last edited by wikdwizard; 04-25-2017 at 01:41 AM.
04-25-2017, 01:38 AM
#24
Pro
its not about keeping it cooler, synthetic fluid has a different molecular structure, it doesnt break down like natural fluids do, it lasts a lot longer or lasts better under extreme use.
If you have to take the trans out to put the converter in , then you will be replacing "all" the fluid .
some people think the difference between $5 a litre (or quart) and $15 a litre trans fluid is just the price !
If you have to take the trans out to put the converter in , then you will be replacing "all" the fluid .
some people think the difference between $5 a litre (or quart) and $15 a litre trans fluid is just the price !
Reference my above post for comments on replacing all of the fluid.
04-25-2017, 02:16 AM
#25
Melting Slicks
I agree there is definitely a difference in fluids. I've run the Amsoil in 700R4s in the past and loved it. In this case though, I would leave the fluid as is instead of spending the extra $ and taking a risk, and just add a $50 cooler for proven insurance.
Reference my above post for comments on replacing all of the fluid.
Reference my above post for comments on replacing all of the fluid.
maybe we should take a poll -
A.-pour 10 or so quarts of trans fluid down the dipstick tube with a funnel or
B.-fit a trans cooler to a c4 corvette ?
I know which one I would pick !
04-25-2017, 08:11 PM
#27
Burning Brakes
Clutches and seals with time/miles on them commonly do not react well when introduced to new fluids. From my experience there is no reason to tempt fate if the fluid is in good shape.
All you have to do to swap the converter is get the trans back and down a little; it is a good idea to loosen the lines on the trans and disconnect from the radiator, but they do not have to come off/out. If one is intent upon flushing them, why not do it when they are connected to the cooler and clean that out as well? I also take out the oil pressure fitting on the top rear of the block and remove the radiator hoses to prevent possibly cracking plastic radiator end tanks. Even is one decides to drop the pan you only get about 4qts. out of it, and maybe 2.5 from the converter. A little will come out of the tailshaft housing if it is not plugged, but that fluid (and the fluid that will drain from the dipstick tube orfice) is from the same cavities as the fluid resting in the pan. Trans takes 12 or so after a fresh rebuild. Point being, there is no way to change all of the fluid without complete disassembly, therefore during a normal converter replacement there will be new/old fluid mixing going on.
All you have to do to swap the converter is get the trans back and down a little; it is a good idea to loosen the lines on the trans and disconnect from the radiator, but they do not have to come off/out. If one is intent upon flushing them, why not do it when they are connected to the cooler and clean that out as well? I also take out the oil pressure fitting on the top rear of the block and remove the radiator hoses to prevent possibly cracking plastic radiator end tanks. Even is one decides to drop the pan you only get about 4qts. out of it, and maybe 2.5 from the converter. A little will come out of the tailshaft housing if it is not plugged, but that fluid (and the fluid that will drain from the dipstick tube orfice) is from the same cavities as the fluid resting in the pan. Trans takes 12 or so after a fresh rebuild. Point being, there is no way to change all of the fluid without complete disassembly, therefore during a normal converter replacement there will be new/old fluid mixing going on.
Last edited by A Peter C4; 04-25-2017 at 08:12 PM.
04-25-2017, 11:46 PM
#28
Pro
If you are capable of doing a converter swap installing a trans cooler is a breeze. Even for a novice mechanic a cooler install is straightforward.
04-25-2017, 11:48 PM
#29
Pro
I know, sorry....clear as mud! Removing the radiator hoses is to avoid them pulling on the radiator when you lower the trans/rear of the engine down to get to the bellhousing bolts and other cramped access items such as the cooler line fittings on the trans.
04-26-2017, 09:45 PM
#30
Instructor
Thread Starter
I would go with a Precision Industries Vigilante. They will restall it within 2 years. 5 year warranty. That means if you don't like it, send it back and they will adjust it. Also, if the trans craps out in 2 years, same thing. This comes with their recommendation of what to get for what you say you have. If you change something, they can restall it.
If your trans craps out, there is nothing you can do to flush out everything in the TC without cutting it apart.
If your trans craps out, there is nothing you can do to flush out everything in the TC without cutting it apart.
Always change the TC out. I was going to use the old converter but wanted to upgrade with high stall. Almost missed your comment... thanks for the heads up
