Street89vette

Bought a used 700r4 pulled from 1990 corvette. Owner claims to have a recent rebuild but not sure about this. On my work bench now. Pulling the front pump and inspecting this weekend.
Not sure what kit will work but as usual if you want it to be done right... do it yourself. Going to use a 3000 lockup converter. Any ideas on cheap kits?

confab

Do you know anything about this?

If not, you're biting off a lot.

Cliff Harris

The main problem I had when I rebuilt mine was that I didn't know what to look for. The pro rebuilders have seen a million problems and recognize them immediately. For example, I didn't get the boost valve C-clip seated correctly and the boost valve blew out when I started the engine. This is a VERY common mistake from what I've read in various places. Here are some hints:

http://www.misterpeachy.com/VetteStu...uild_Tips.html

WVZR-1

These aren't generally a good mix "done right" - "do it yourself" - "cheap"

Post #2 seems appropriate

I'd think first issue could be identifying the trans properly. You can ID the case by external information and visuals. Internal identification likely more complicated but maybe verify the valve body and the wiring schematic. Does it have the correct output or is it maybe a cut-off generic "short".

Joe C

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arbee

To answer the question you asked, go online and research. There are many sites that offer anything from a filter to competition packages. 150.00 will get you a standard complete kit.

Observe as you take things apart and make notes/take pictures. An ATSG guidebook for your year/model will give you the necessary specifications. There are also an abundance of guide books and videos available. YouTube is also a good source.

Take your time and keep things clean. Place all your component pieces together, not in one big collection. These transmissions are not nuclear trigger mechanisms. Someone put them together at one time, you can do it again. Should you make a mistake, it is not the end of the world. Correct it, learn and move on. No one knew anything about rebuilding these until they did their first one!

confab

PS: I own a transmission shop. You can do the 700/4L60 if you pay attention and are careful. Good advice is the ATSG book, above. (You will definitely want to get that.) Also working on individual components, one at a time.

As far as a "kit" goes, I'm not aware of a comprehensive "rebuild kit" Like with an engine "kit" what you buy is generally the clutches, steels, paper and rubber parts. Leaving the hard parts to be purchased individually.

Some of these would include:

You will want to replace the pump rings and vanes.
You will want to replace the forward sprag, and regardless what it looks like. (Actually, you should upgrade this to the "E" part which has 29 elements. Buy the races too and it is a drop in.)
You will want to replace the sun shell (and probably upgrade it to a hardened part) regardless what it looks like.
You will want to replace the pump bushing and rear case bushing, others as wear dictates.
You will want to purchase the Sonnax wide bushing for the rear sun gear and replace that regardless what it looks like.
You will want to replace the 1/2 and 3/4 accumulators with Sonnax pinless parts. (They have a forward also, but it is less important.)
You will want to hammer the separator plate flat where the ***** distort it and replace those ***** with Torlon *****.
You will want to inspect the boost valve for wear. (There is a larger valve available. 1/2inch. I have it installed in my Vette and it does wonders for the line pressure, but I'm not sure I like it otherwise. Sonnax has a variety of replacement/upgrade options here.)

Personally, I replace the checkball capsule in the servo bore with the cup plug you see holding the park pin in place. (You can remove it with a tap)

There are some special tools required and you will see them in the ATSG guide. You can either pay your local transmission shop to do these steps for you, or you can buy the tools, or you can improvise.

Improvising:

The Pump Alignment can be done with a large hose clamp.

The teflon rings on the input drum and pump stator can be carefully stretched into place and then sized by carefully stuffing them into their respective bores. (you may want to buy a couple extra. As it is easy to break them without the tools.)

The Low Reverse return spring can probably be removed with some small C clamps. You can get the others with a small press and some of the usual press stock. (Old bearing races, bolts, etc. Be creative and you'll get them.)

Good luck and all the best!

arbee

Some good advice for a first timer. Just curious - you mention replacing #7 capsule with a cup plug. This is new to me. Please explain the rational.

Also for the Teflon rings, I discovered that a piece of plastic clothes rod cover from the home stores works perfect. It is split down one side and compresses around the shaft almost perfectly.

confab

Yeah, that would work.

In my experience capsule leakage is often the cause of 3/4 clutch burnup.

It is impossible for DIY'ers to air check unless they buy a plate. I replaced pretty much as a matter of course now.

There's an improved part available from Sonnax too.

coupeguy2001

I bought a 700R4 from a guy that said it needed rebuilding. It is the later one with the accumulator out of an 88 corvette.
I bought the 150$$ kit, and tore it all apart.
The teeth were all sheared on a clutch drum.
I replaced it, and put it all back together.
It does all 4 gears, but no reverse.
What am i missing?
The steel plate under the valve body was really bent under from the pressure of the ***** pressing against it, so I replaced it with a new one.
Could a ball have gotten loose somewhere, and when I took it apart, I did not know it had to be there?
When I took the plate off, I made a little scribe mark as to where the ***** were.
Interested in what you have to say,

I ended up with a 92 firebird 700R4, and used pieces from my 86 trans to get it to work in my 86 corvette.
Thanks,
Chris

Kevova

I don't know that you want the cheapest kit. Transgo is good for parts. Most of the factory updated hard parts should already be installed. You do want to look over the sun shell. There is a condition where the sun gears splines in the shell strip.

arbee

Different sources I have read indicate the #7 exhausts any trapped air before 3rd accumulator fluid seats the ball. With the cup plug, you have had no problem?

arbee

There are a few. If the two Teflon seals on the pump are damaged, the reverse input clutches will not apply. Likewise with the lip seals for the reverse input piston. If the low-reverse clutch in the back is not applying because of the same, the rear carrier will freewheel and also no reverse.

confab

No problems in 15 years. There's a bleed in the back of the servo housing that takes care of it.

I know some people don't like this, so if they want to use the capsule, there's a nice replacement from Sonnax out there. It's got ORings on it and stuff. That would work fine too.

I just know I've traced low line (which will burn the 3/4 clutch) back to that capsule, I dunno how many times. So, I don't trust it anymore.

confab

All good points. I have seen the mickey mouse wave spring in the reverse input drum cause problems too. When you air test that it should pump up tight, minimum of leakage.

Some of the older ones had a checkball capsule in place in the front of the drum. damage there could cause it.

It is real easy to mess up the seals on the pump stator when seating the pump. You can watch them with a flashlight from the top of the VB area on the case side when you're seating the pump and see if they're going where they're supposed to. You can spin the pump or the output shaft to turn them and gain access to the other side, and kinda push them in with a screwdriver or something similar, if they get into trouble.

arbee

Yes, I replace this capsule every time also. Can be a pain in the *** to remove.

arbee

Yes, they seem to require a bit of attention. The scarf cut seem easier but I don't know if they as good as the enclosed ones.

confab

A 9-1.00 tap and a little slide hammer work good for me. I've tried other methods and it's just endless frustration.

confab

I like the solid rings.

I never checked the difference on the 4L60, but I know solids on the direct VS scarf cuts on the direct drum of the AOD were worth about 10 PSI on the dyno.

Even without the pressure bump, that's a pretty small shaft on the input drum and cross leaking & drag might be an issue. I just put the solids on all of them now. 700's on up. I put them on the pump too.

It's relatively easy to peek in there when the pump is going to down and make sure they aren't getting into trouble.

But that's just me. Every transmission guy seems to do things a little different.

arbee

On a side note, what is the latest consensus where you are from regarding the 3-4 boost springs? In the garbage and drill the plate or put back in?