When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am replacing the exhaust on my 94 LT1 with another factory exhaust in better condition. The existing studs and bolts are all either breaking, or unsuitable for re-use. I need help finding the right studs and bolts. The studs on the manifolds look like pretty standard studs that should be easily sourced. The drivers side converter to catback connection is where I see parts that will be hard to match up (because they are all basically destroyed). I also need the bolts that attach the hangers to the catback - they all snapped off at the head. I've highlighted everything I think I'll need in the pictures I attached.
Does anyone know of a source, the size, or the part numbers?
Take your images to a GM parts dept and they can do an exhaust illustration and print it for you that will give dimensions of the "generic hardware" and part # the application specific items. They can tell you what is available what's NLA and for application specific items maybe inventory at dealers "in the vicinity".
There's several of us here that can also accomplish it but you'll be much better served by a "parts guy/gal" in a dealership environment.
The guy/gal should present you with an image similar to this and they'll of course be better prepared to "fill in the blanks".
I figured you would reply! Looks like a couple of these studs/bolts are going to be tricky to find. I'll have to try the dealer or see if I can get them off and take them to fastenal or napa to see if we can find something that will work.
I figured you would reply! Looks like a couple of these studs/bolts are going to be tricky to find. I'll have to try the dealer or see if I can get them off and take them to fastenal or napa to see if we can find something that will work.
I do business with 2 dealers and I have no doubt that either of them could do as I suggested. I don't believe there should be issues. it ain't tricky - it's nuts and bolts. Fastenal here locally is a tougher procurement ordeal and Fastenal ain't inexpensive either.
I'd much rather a conversation with the dealers than the Fastenal employee!!
Your situation is this - if you can't extract what's there, knowing what was there is going to be of little value. You'll need to extract and then determine what hardware you use to replace it after determining which female threaded aspects of related components can be either saved/chased or .....................
I have a "new" catback and "new" converters. The threads are all in fine shape for the studs/bolts. The hardware I'm most concerned with goes between the converter and the catback on the driver's side there are 2 different length studs and a bolt. The studs have a flange on them and hold the cat to a support bracket.
I've never done any business with Fastenal, just know that they exist in the area. Good to know that they are hard to deal with. Napa has served me really well in the past for things like this, but it sounds like I've gotta just bite the bullet and go to the Chevy dealer. They should at least be able to give me specs for the parts I'm looking for.
In any case, thanks for the help/advice. I'll track the parts down one way or another. I was just hoping I could eliminate a bunch of footwork tracking them down by finding out what they were and buying online.
I am replacing the exhaust on my 94 LT1 with another factory exhaust in better condition. The existing studs and bolts are all either breaking, or unsuitable for re-use. I need help finding the right studs and bolts. The studs on the manifolds look like pretty standard studs that should be easily sourced. The drivers side converter to catback connection is where I see parts that will be hard to match up (because they are all basically destroyed). I also need the bolts that attach the hangers to the catback - they all snapped off at the head. I've highlighted everything I think I'll need in the pictures I attached.
Does anyone know of a source, the size, or the part numbers?
Thanks for any help!
not sure what you're trying to accomplish here - originality, OE only hardware or what, but in your first pic, the bolt is a hex head bolt, M10-1.5 x 60 flange head grade 10.9 - GM # 11509265. for the nuts, standard M10 prevailing torque nuts - GM OE part number 14019305, however I recommend BMW part number 18301737774. they are a copper alloy flanged locknut and far superior to anything OE. available for about $1 each. the studs should be M10-1.5x57 and should be sourced just about anywhere. along with the exhaust manifold studs - M10-1.5 x 57, pn 14057005, but anything around 60mm length should work and you could source just about anywhere - check dorman products. again, the BMW part number on the nuts. for the hanger bolts, they are M8-1.25 x 16 flange head grade 9.8, GM #11500815, but any hardware store equivalent will work. I recommend a high temp anti-seize on all exhaust hardware. if your are insistent on GM the OE numbers are either discontinued or superseded. either way, if GM, be prepared to pay.
I'm definitely NOT concerned with OEM parts. This car is a driver. It looks like I'll be able to get everything cheaply online thanks to your reply! Thanks!
The only question I have is that when I looked at the studs on the catalytic converter they looked different. I made this picture to show you what I mean. Basically they looked like they were flanged to hold the catalytic converter bracket. Maybe it was just corrosion on my old rusty parts? I can probably get a picture tonight.
JoeC suggested the BMW nuts and that's similar to what we've used for years. A friend buys from Wurth and we use their product. It's certainly a more desired product for exhaust hardware. Location I guess would dictate the "where to buy"! BMW likely easier!
I suggested a dealer visit so you get a very nice image, parts list etc. With that in hand what you do is entirely up to you. They could maybe even have the 2 specialty studs for the left OR maybe locate them in the area for you!
The 2 specialty studs used on the left side? I'm quite sure a fellow here used 3 bolts, for the 2 stud locations to the bracket he increased the threaded length on the bolts considerably, passed the bolt through the flange, spun a nut all the way up the threads, put the exhaust together and then tightened the nut to the bracket. There's other ways to accomplish that connection. Having "NEW" parts makes it much easier I'd think. Do the fit and confirmation on the ground and then install
Here's a link to the Wurth hardware. We use Wurth alot. Is there a Wurth dealer in your area?
I'm definitely NOT concerned with OEM parts. This car is a driver. It looks like I'll be able to get everything cheaply online thanks to your reply! Thanks!
The only question I have is that when I looked at the studs on the catalytic converter they looked different. I made this picture to show you what I mean. Basically they looked like they were flanged to hold the catalytic converter bracket. Maybe it was just corrosion on my old rusty parts? I can probably get a picture tonight.
not 100% positive, but I would think that those studs were used to aid in the manufacturing process, that is to hold and align the bracket. there's not near enough of a flange to effectively clamp anything. I wouldn't be overly concerned with that, and most likely i'd replace it with any M10-1.5 X required length necessary to get the job done. the hardware does nothing more than clamp the cat flanges together. this shouldn't be a show stopper. if you do need something, maybe an all-thread stud with a thin jamb nut.
for the locknuts, I usually buy them on fleabay - here a link for (quantity) 20 for $16.88, shipped, although you can buy smaller quantities. overall, this is the best bang for the buck, or in this case, best bang for 84 cents.
wurth supplies quality hardware, but it's pricey, and quantities are limited to (minimum) packs of 50 - on-line purchases. if you can find a local dealer that will sell smaller quantities, I can pretty much guarantee you the price WILL go up, and you will pay more. my advice, fleabay, hit the enter button, and wait for the UPS guy. no gas, no wear and tear on your car, no time, no nothin' - just sit back and enjoy a cold one!
Here are shots of the OEM studs, and then a shot of the "new" manifold with some doorman studs installed. The bracket fits pretty loose around the studs. I think it needs to be clamped down or it might turn into a source of rattles.
Well - your snapshots seem to indicate that the way one was done locally should work well. The suggestion that it was an "assembly aid" I'm sure isn't correct. There's specific "bracketry" for both sides of the LT converters. They need to be there and do serve a purpose, support for the entire LT exhaust.
Buy a couple appropriate length bolts, add maybe 6 threads to the threaded dimension OR maybe you can actually find an appropriate bolt with a threaded length that can work! The unusual configuration on the OE stud was to offer a fixed diameter pilot for the bracket. There are ways to fabricate/fudge that if you'd actually care to.
The snapshots I believe answer most questions.
I would avoid a "thread to head" bolt and maybe buy a flange head if I could. They seem to do well for the exhaust ball/flange vs just a conventional hex.
This stuff, the copper nuts from ebay, the doorman stud kit I have at home and some high temp copper anti-seize should help me get this job done. Now I just need to cut the studs off that old cat so I can get it off the car!
I don't care for the "all-thread" and the "thin-nut" - I've never seen generic threaded rod used for exhaust! NEVER!
I'd think a serrated flange nut for the retention to the bracket and a finish for all hardware that's suitable and appropriate for exhaust. None in your snapshot seem to display appropriate properties. Bright finish hardware seldom has appropriate properties.
What I don't get maybe is you mention "NEW" for both converters and the cat-back exhaust - why would you use less than appropriate hardware? What exhaust and what converters?
The finish looks exactly the same as the studs in the doorman kit. What is the problem that I'm facing by using "bright" hardware? Corrosion? This car is driven on sunny days only and only sees water when it's washed, which is rarely.
My thought was that the thin nuts might be necessary for clearance between the actual flange and the stud during installation, but my first choice is to use the copper nuts that I have coming. I have lock washers at home that I can use to keep whatever I put there from spinning off. Still no good?
The threaded rod has all the same specs as the bolt, but no head...so what's the problem there? You've never seen it, but the right hardware does not exist...how is this different than using a longer bolt like you've suggested? To be clear, I did not buy and then cut a long piece of threaded rod. Those 100mm sections were in with the bolts in the hardware section in NAPA. Literally 2 boxes above the bolt that I bought.
It all can easily be returned and bought online in a different finish if it's that big a deal.
What I don't get maybe is you mention "NEW" for both converters and the cat-back exhaust - why would you use less than appropriate hardware? What exhaust and what converters?
I guess I was unclear. I used Quotation marks because the parts are new to me, and in good condition, but are in no way NOS, Newly Manufactured. They are quote-unquote as new as any used part is.
so to clarify: I have USED - new to me OEM catalytic converters and a USED -new to me OEM Catback exhaust.
M10-1.5 X 72mm - short end is 17mm, stud flange is around .4-.5mm thick. usable (long end), approximately 50mm. warning: this is a ford replacement part, so it might affect performance -
seriously? WTF is wrong with me that I couldn't easily find that! Ordered from amazon for $9
I assume you've ordered the above stud kit. the only thing I see is the studs are around 15mm longer than the OE counterparts, but that shouldn't be an issue.
with that dorman kit, the flats on the end of the stud should give you enough to sufficiently torque the stud so the stud-flange holds captive the mounting bracket. if not, you can always double-nut that sucker and torque to spec.
if everything works out, post your final fix with the results - might help future LT1 owners with the same problem. i'd sure like to see a clear pic of what the OE stud is supposed to look like, and side-by-side with the dorman stud to compare the two.
05-09-2017, 09:55 PM
Parts Gurus - Exhaust stud/bolt help
