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Hey guys. im looking for a switched 12v power source to tap into for a second cigarette lighter style plug.
I found a few old threads but didnt find the info i need.
i have the interior of my 86 completely gutted right now so i can go from anywhere. but id rather pull from under the center console area.
i looked at the cigarette lighter in my 86 (which im not in front of) and i *think* it was orange ans black. i cant remember if my cig lighter is always hot 12v.
Last edited by VikingTrad3r; 06-04-2017 at 11:53 AM.
thanks boys, I have the dash out and my radio has just been inserted to market up. I will pull it back out and tap into that accessory and ignition powered wire. On the radio harness side, I think it's red. I will check to see if on the vehicle side the harness is yellow.
well, you just never know how much juice a person is going to need.
ive decided since im in learning mode and enjoy this stuff anyway, i may as well just use the ignition/power source from the stereo to lower the coil in a relay wich will be direct to the battery.
just need to figure out how to sneak through the firewall now.
here are pics of where i created my second 12v plug.
its slightly off center. shoulda been 1/8th to the left. the yellow is the repair i did to the driver side seat control mounting box using yellow lego... fits fine but like i said 1/8" left would be better.
edit: i had made my mind up to just draw from the stereo. but then wondered if i would lose power at the stereo and the wires off the back of my stereo are super thin.
dogs,
i was under the impression that i had to be cautious on the amount of power amps going through wires.
if i go with this suggestion am i at risk of melting lines and possible fire? this was my reason for going direct but yeah this is way easier.
but i dont think i would need a relay for this method of tapping the power off the power seat orange wire?
Last edited by VikingTrad3r; 06-05-2017 at 07:23 PM.
sogs: PO has "grounded to the firewal. its the black wire with the blue sheink wrap ring connector here. That looks to be aluminum to me????
i am considering re-positioning that ground to a better ground lovation?? currently considering the rear driver side seatbass bolt.
this car has heaps of dynomat installed by the previous owner. there seems to be some corrossion OF THE DYNOMAT around the rear driver side seat bolt. just wondering if anybody has experienced any weirdness from the metal (aluminum??) foil that is wrapped into this dynomat type stuff and if that affects the fround.
furthermore, ive heard that the feedback loop hiss can infact be created by poor grounding on a stereo. this car had a feedback eliminator installed and i am suspicious it is there because of the potentially poor ground position in what looks to be a aluminum firewall?? thoughts? here are pics.
dead center of photo. that is straight forward of the radio and is the PO ground for the radio. good? bad? weird disintegration of the aluminum foil Dina wrap-ish type stuff. at the rear driver side in her seat base bolt
for anybody else who comes along one day and reads this thread:In the above thread we talk about the yellow wire. What we are meaning is the yellow wire on the vehicle harness. I just got a little confused because on my radio the switched 12 V accessory/ignition power yes actually read. And there is a yellow coming off the radio as well.
But in this case the yellow on the radio turns into a pink with white stripe on the car harness, which denotes and always hot 12 V line.The red on the radio turns into the yellow on the harness. The red on the radio to notes that it is the 12 V ignition switched accessory line. Just an FYI. read the label on the top of your radio to be absolutely clear.
this is how i tapped the yellow line (which i did on the radio side of the harness so its red.
I have been wanting to add a few more 12v outlets to my car for some time now.
Last time i had the console open my energy fizzled out after a short time, and i ended up connecting a second outlet to the existing one, then ran it out the side of the console.
It looks like crap, but it allows me to run the wideband sensor and my radar detector at the same time.
Later down the road i decided I'll run a new line in from the battery, and then switch it with a relay so it's only on when the ignition is on...
For the ground issue, on the passenger side, i had to drill a hole for the wide band sensor, so i also ran some grounds directly to the frame.
I have about 5 spares coiled up for later use...
Driver seat belt buckle switch? Note the question mark.
I'm taking an educated guess. GM's of the era, both buckle switch wires are black. Plus it makes sense that the buckle wires would be loomed with the driver's seat power wires.
That is totally what it is. Nice work.
I looked at the driver side female end of the seatbelt and the pigtail is there and is all corroded. It wasn't plugged in.
THANKS! Now I have to find the other half of the plug to fit the harness!
on the seat belt switch .... I found that the male and female end of the plug were mated and all I have to do is remove the pins from the mail portion and Sauter the pins back onto the wires and insert them in the plug housing.
So here's my question, both of these wires are black as you pointed out and as you can see in my photo of the thread of the two wires that have been twisted together.How do I know which one goes to which pin?
does it not matter which wire is on which pin?
I am soaking them in vinegar right now because they had the new oxidizeation that comes from copper. I would like to solder the pins to the wires tonight.
soldered the wires to the pins and plugged it all back together.
something is UP WITH THAT circut though......
the copper wires are all black. it was really hard to get the solder to even stick to the wires. its as iff its been so hot that the black sheath had melted into it.
06-04-2017, 11:48 AM
adding a second 12v plug inside my 86 4+3 console
