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Fellows, i need Help, changing rear brakes and rotors

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Old 06-06-2017, 02:18 PM
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charliet615
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Default Fellows, i need Help, changing rear brakes and rotors

93, base, rear brakes, i have read all i can find on changing the pads and rotors and it seemed simple until i got to the part, where per the FSM, you have to disable the hand brake. This where i got confused and did not understand why you cannot just remove the parking brake spring to get to the 15mm bolt holding the calipers on? I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer, so any input would be appreciated..
Old 06-06-2017, 03:37 PM
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hcbph
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Is your e-brake drum or work off the caliper? I have drum type and there's a bracket on the cable that has to come off the knuckle to get the cable off and remove everything. Might be something similar for you.
Old 06-06-2017, 03:50 PM
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81c3
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Maybe theyre just saying to make sure its not engaged. AFAIK, the 93 doesnt have the drum for the E Brake.... should just be pretty straight forward...
Old 06-06-2017, 04:38 PM
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DMITTZ
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The 93' should just have the e-brake tied in with the caliper. Its been over a year since I did mine but I think as long as the handle is not engaged everything should work as normal... I don't recall having to do anything special with the e-brake on mine.
Old 06-06-2017, 05:01 PM
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charliet615
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The E-Brake is connected to the Caliper/Rotor. Again, there is a large spring in the way of the top bolt and the FSM states do not remove this spring. FSM page 5B2-3 states: Important, "Do not remove lever return spring or disconnect cable unless parking brake automatic adjuster has been disabled"?

Where is WVZR1 when you need him?

Last edited by charliet615; 06-06-2017 at 05:45 PM.
Old 06-06-2017, 06:46 PM
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charliet615
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DMITTZ, How did you get the top bolt out with the spring attached?
Old 06-06-2017, 07:31 PM
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charliet615
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Boy do i feel like a dummy, there is a 17mm lock nut and you have to hold it while loosing the top 15mm bolt and also the bottom allen head screw. Now if i can just push the piston back to accept the new rotors and pads. Thanks, Charlie
Old 06-06-2017, 08:47 PM
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81c3
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Originally Posted by charliet615
Boy do i feel like a dummy, there is a 17mm lock nut and you have to hold it while loosing the top 15mm bolt and also the bottom allen head screw. Now if i can just push the piston back to accept the new rotors and pads. Thanks, Charlie
A couple ways to do that...
Buy the proper tool to compress the piston
Use the old brake pad and a large Channel Locks to compress the piston
Use the old brake pad and the handle of a hammer or mallet and slowly push down on the pad until the piston is compressed.

First method is proper.... last is least desirable but will work if you dont have a Channel Lock large enough or the compression tool.
Old 06-06-2017, 08:57 PM
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charliet615
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Got it, Thanks 81c3.
Old 06-06-2017, 09:05 PM
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charliet615
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Quick Question, 81c3, there are 2 horse shoe shaped shims in the pad kit, where do they go? I didn't see anything like that when i took it apart. The pads are power stop evolution ceramic brand.
Old 06-06-2017, 10:10 PM
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81c3
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Originally Posted by charliet615
Quick Question, 81c3, there are 2 horse shoe shaped shims in the pad kit, where do they go? I didn't see anything like that when i took it apart. The pads are power stop evolution ceramic brand.
Sound like anti squeal shims.... Snap a pic and show us.
Old 06-06-2017, 11:55 PM
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A Peter C4
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Are the rear calipers screw in type to retract for new pads?

Last edited by A Peter C4; 06-06-2017 at 11:56 PM.
Old 06-07-2017, 12:09 PM
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DMITTZ
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Originally Posted by charliet615
DMITTZ, How did you get the top bolt out with the spring attached?
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, but I'm glad you got it figured out.
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