Powerstroked89

First off, a pox on the engineer who put that there. I had to remove two panels and at 6'2, it was a bitch to get too

I got the AC connector removed. I see the color coded vacuum lines that meet at the green rubber connecter that mate to the programmer. Does that whole green connector come off? Or do you pull the color coded wires off from their respective points?

I am having an issue with my climate control lighting up, no controls work and I got full on defrost screaming.

I did notice the blue vacuum line had broken on the connector where it attaches to the nipple. could that be my issue? My climate control unit looks to be in good condition as well as the capacitors and diodes.

Thanks for your time

HAD2HAV2

What year pushrod?

Powerstroked89

My apologies, 94

HAD2HAV2

Sorry, I have a 88 and have been through all that crap. Here is a pic of mine out of the car but I doubt if it is the same. For what it's worth, a push nut holds the silicone block (contains all the hoses) to the programmer. I took a very small needle nose pliers and broke it. Later on I used a real nut that would screw onto the rod to attaché the cube back on..





Mine was above the gas peddle. Hard job but I did it. Sent mine to batee.com and they did a good job fixing it. Good luck on or fix.

Powerstroked89

Thanks for the pictures.

Yeah same spot for mine, it wouldn't let me pull the vacuum bundle off. Good to know I can snap that top off and it will pull out.

I did notice the blue vaccuum line where it attaches to the car, had the cap broken. I am not sure if this would have any affect on not being able to use any of the buttons or not. Was hoping to get by fixing it myself, I have dropped a lot of dough on this car so far

pcolt94

The 94 does have the characteristic nipples that claps however the 96 does.

The hoses come off together however there is a lock nut that is sometimes replaced with a standard nut and bolt.

The circuit card can be removed from the plastic box leaving all hoses attached to the box.

If your display on the control head is back lit with no numbers and with no control with the buttons, read my thread and see if it pertains to your problem. You can repair the circuit card with a few capacitors. See what you think, let us know.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-repaired.html

Powerstroked89

will do. Thank you.

do you know off hand if you can replace these individual vacuum lines? My blue line where the connector attaches to the nipple, the connector is only attached at the base, the top is gone so no vacuum. It became brittle and fell apart it seems

my search for 94 corvette a.c. programmer vacuum lines come up with nada on replacements.

Powerstroked89

Finally got the programmer. Again whoever placed that there with those short vac hoses, deserves a swift kick in the nuts.

Here is the connector for one of my hoses, will the end being broken hinder vacuum? Doesn't look like it, but wanted to ask before I put everything back in once I fixed this programmer

pcolt94

Hard to say. But I would not mess with it at this time as it might be OK and playing with it may it leak. After I got the programmer is fixed, if all is working OK, then your good and only go to that hose if there is a need, at least that how I would approach it.

When you get the programmer fixed you can just let it hang without mounting it, it will work OK for a test before mounting properly. We all know the programmer is in a crappie place. I have never taken my box out but only the board in it.

Powerstroked89

Yeah... my seat was already pulled for a new seat frame. I was on my back under the steering column and my legs were on the the rear hatch. Getting out was a pita, considering I about ripped my shirt on the seat studs in the floor

Needless to say, the vacuum line harness could be a little longer, getting the programmer out was ridiculous.

HAD2HAV2

Looks like the hose plugs on to a nipple and has (in your case, had) a connector to hold the vacuum hose in place. You might use some clear silicone sealant in that area to prevent any leaks or movement. Not sure you can find a replacement.
Job well done. I haven't done a heater core replacement yet on my 88 but removing a ac/heater programmer is right up there.

pcolt94

Good suggestion.

OP
Just want to add to my post #9 that only the main (big) connector has to be connected to test the control head and see if your fixed after you work on the board if that is what you end up doing. The smaller plug is only for the vacuum solenoids to operate the vents and not needed at this time for the test of the control head functions. You just can't control the vents, but the fan, temp display, and buttons (LEDs) will all work.

Powerstroked89

Cool thank you for the tip. Ordered my repair kit from batee, hoping it takes care of it