Has anyone done a "VATS BYPASS" on the cheap?
#1
Has anyone done a "VATS BYPASS" on the cheap?
So, I have had a vats issue since day 1 with my 90 and it happen 6x this weekend. I finally took my afternoon and bought a pack of 220 resistors and a pack of 1.5s my key was an 887 so I did 887.5 +/5% she started right up. Now I have an issue with my c68 ac controller. The backlight works but I can't get anything to turn on, I have no outside temp display, nothing. Just a blank orange screen. Does anyone know how these 2 are tied together? I have alway had good ac and used the c68 for my engine temp. Without the controller, I'm dead in Houston summers.
#2
VATS is easy to disable in the tune (but I can only say that for certain on the 94/95 PCMs).
I had wonky issues with my C68 as well though the screen always worked. Mine was non responding buttons. There is a good sticky on cleaning the contacts. Mine works flawlessly now. Worth a try for you but I can't help you on saying if it is at all tied to the VATS.
I had wonky issues with my C68 as well though the screen always worked. Mine was non responding buttons. There is a good sticky on cleaning the contacts. Mine works flawlessly now. Worth a try for you but I can't help you on saying if it is at all tied to the VATS.
#3
VATS is easy to disable in the tune (but I can only say that for certain on the 94/95 PCMs).
I had wonky issues with my C68 as well though the screen always worked. Mine was non responding buttons. There is a good sticky on cleaning the contacts. Mine works flawlessly now. Worth a try for you but I can't help you on saying if it is at all tied to the VATS.
I had wonky issues with my C68 as well though the screen always worked. Mine was non responding buttons. There is a good sticky on cleaning the contacts. Mine works flawlessly now. Worth a try for you but I can't help you on saying if it is at all tied to the VATS.
#4
Burning Brakes
#5
Melting Slicks
there's more than one way to skin a cat or defeat (or disable) a VATS ;
on the theft deterrent relay needs three inputs to allow the starter to engage:
(1) there has to be power to the low amperage side of the Theft Deterrent Relay provided through either the Clutch Pedal Position (safety) Switch or the Transmission Range Switch (park or neutral) 0.5 YEL 269
(2) it needs the CCM to tell Theft Deterrent Relay Control to energize and provide a ground and complete the circuit for the low amperage side of the Theft Deterrent Relay 0.35 YEL/BLK 625
(3)There has to be 12 volts coming in through 5 YEL to the high amperage side of the Theft Deterrent Relay; and,
(4) If the Theft Deterrent Relay has closed there will be 12 volts going out through 5 PPL 6 to the starter solenoid
What I did was to connect 5 YEL 5 directly to 5 PPL 6, completely eliminates VATS regardless of whether the CCM is "happy" or "unhappy".
YES I know this defeats the clutch safety switch but I'm old school and that's the way I prefer my vehicle.
on the theft deterrent relay needs three inputs to allow the starter to engage:
(1) there has to be power to the low amperage side of the Theft Deterrent Relay provided through either the Clutch Pedal Position (safety) Switch or the Transmission Range Switch (park or neutral) 0.5 YEL 269
(2) it needs the CCM to tell Theft Deterrent Relay Control to energize and provide a ground and complete the circuit for the low amperage side of the Theft Deterrent Relay 0.35 YEL/BLK 625
(3)There has to be 12 volts coming in through 5 YEL to the high amperage side of the Theft Deterrent Relay; and,
(4) If the Theft Deterrent Relay has closed there will be 12 volts going out through 5 PPL 6 to the starter solenoid
What I did was to connect 5 YEL 5 directly to 5 PPL 6, completely eliminates VATS regardless of whether the CCM is "happy" or "unhappy".
YES I know this defeats the clutch safety switch but I'm old school and that's the way I prefer my vehicle.
#6
Safety Car
C68 Electronic Air Conditioning control system
I have an 88 Coupe and it's Digital Dashboard and C68 were both acting a bit weird for a while. I used to have to tap the bottom of the dash to get the display to light back up. I decided to upgrade the stereo and took out the digital dashboard to get it working brighter/better.
I then spoke to Bryan at BATEE.COM and he helped me get both my dashboard and my C68 all working like new. I know a bit about electronics so I did the work myself. Once I opened up the C68 I realized why it flakes out like it does. There is a ribbon cable that had a warped receiving connector, it is amazing it worked as well as it did. After 29 years of service it was time for the overhaul. The new parts that I bought and installed have made my dashboard and C68 a joy to use. My dash actually is readable in any lighting conditions again.
Normally I would have just paid him to do it all but even just buying the parts I was impressed with the support I received from Bryan.
If your C68 is flaky then call Bryan! He will sell you the parts or do it all for you, your choice. If you are not a great electronics tech then send it to him and you will get your unit back fast!
No, I do not work for or with BATEE.com, I am just one of his many, many satisfied customers!
Good Luck!
I then spoke to Bryan at BATEE.COM and he helped me get both my dashboard and my C68 all working like new. I know a bit about electronics so I did the work myself. Once I opened up the C68 I realized why it flakes out like it does. There is a ribbon cable that had a warped receiving connector, it is amazing it worked as well as it did. After 29 years of service it was time for the overhaul. The new parts that I bought and installed have made my dashboard and C68 a joy to use. My dash actually is readable in any lighting conditions again.
Normally I would have just paid him to do it all but even just buying the parts I was impressed with the support I received from Bryan.
If your C68 is flaky then call Bryan! He will sell you the parts or do it all for you, your choice. If you are not a great electronics tech then send it to him and you will get your unit back fast!
No, I do not work for or with BATEE.com, I am just one of his many, many satisfied customers!
Good Luck!
#7
This is what I'm looking at
You see the pink wire spliced into the pink with black? Why?
And this hack job? WTF?
the engine and Trans was pulled out and overhauled back in 2013 and about 40k miles ago. My 2nd fan only works if the AC is turned on, with no c68 I'm dead in the water. I'm going to pull it out and clean it off to see if that helps, I'm going to order that kit from BATEE today, if I don't need it today, I will tomorrow.
And this hack job? WTF?
the engine and Trans was pulled out and overhauled back in 2013 and about 40k miles ago. My 2nd fan only works if the AC is turned on, with no c68 I'm dead in the water. I'm going to pull it out and clean it off to see if that helps, I'm going to order that kit from BATEE today, if I don't need it today, I will tomorrow.
#8
Butt connectors, electrical tape, spliced wires - you're dealing with someone else's wiring hack job. The FSM may help you out immensely for tracing the wiring. And a good digital multi meter.
#9
Team Owner
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confab (06-12-2017)
#10
Funny you say that........ I just did exactly that. But the VATS bypass "mod" wasn't the issue. So, a few days ago I had an issue with my courtesy lights staying on while driving. So I pulled the fuse, who would have thunk it hahaha. 20 of you must be saying "dumb@$$ I knew that" I just found out, the fuse has something to do with it. Put the fuse back in, BOOM works. How is that possible?
#11
I work for a calibration lab and I borrowed one of our fluke multimeters and traced out some of those connectors. The big black wire in that mix goes to a "corvette brand" radar detector that looks 35 years old. Do you know if any come stock?
#12
Melting Slicks
Funny you say that........ I just did exactly that. But the VATS bypass "mod" wasn't the issue. So, a few days ago I had an issue with my courtesy lights staying on while driving. So I pulled the fuse, who would have thunk it hahaha. 20 of you must be saying "dumb@$$ I knew that" I just found out, the fuse has something to do with it. Put the fuse back in, BOOM works. How is that possible?
Funny you say that........ I just did exactly that. But the VATS bypass "mod" wasn't the issue. So, a few days ago I had an issue with my courtesy lights staying on while driving. So I pulled the fuse, who would have thunk it hahaha. 20 of you must be saying "dumb@$$ I knew that" I just found out, the fuse has something to do with it. Put the fuse back in, BOOM works. How is that possible?
#13
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
Posts: 20,161
Received 639 Likes
on
443 Posts
St. Jude '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
Never heard of one.
Now to your fuse event. I have found that disconnecting the battery and letting all the systems rest for a while will sometimes offer unexpected results like your experience. Like a big reboot. Probably a stuck switch or circuit that needed to reset. Always a surprise when C4s and electricity are concerned.
Now to your fuse event. I have found that disconnecting the battery and letting all the systems rest for a while will sometimes offer unexpected results like your experience. Like a big reboot. Probably a stuck switch or circuit that needed to reset. Always a surprise when C4s and electricity are concerned.
#14
thanks a lot guys!
#16
So, I have had a vats issue since day 1 with my 90 and it happen 6x this weekend. I finally took my afternoon and bought a pack of 220 resistors and a pack of 1.5s my key was an 887 so I did 887.5 +/5% she started right up. Now I have an issue with my c68 ac controller. The backlight works but I can't get anything to turn on, I have no outside temp display, nothing. Just a blank orange screen. Does anyone know how these 2 are tied together? I have alway had good ac and used the c68 for my engine temp. Without the controller, I'm dead in Houston summers.
#17
Race Director