Re koolant flush
07-01-2017, 07:55 AM
#41
Instructor
I pulled the knock sensor to drain the block before replacing the heads, there was a LOT of heavy material in there. Rust and scale. I honestly don't think that would have come out any other way.
I used DEXCOOL coolant to refill it. I'm a big believer in that stuff. I replaced a water pump on a silverado pickup that had almost 300K on it, and there was no rust in it AT ALL. So, that sold me. It's all I will use now.
I used DEXCOOL coolant to refill it. I'm a big believer in that stuff. I replaced a water pump on a silverado pickup that had almost 300K on it, and there was no rust in it AT ALL. So, that sold me. It's all I will use now.
I run DexCool in both of my C4's and have no issues at all.
07-01-2017, 08:00 AM
#42
Instructor
I always pull the knock sensors on my 95's when flushing the coolant. The posters on this thread that know LT1's realize that to amount of "circulating" water through the engine is going to dislodge the sediment that settles on the bottom of these engines when they're not running. The first time I flushed the coolant in my vert the coolant came out brown, when I pulled the knocks I also got more sediment. Made some adapters out of brass threaded barbs and clear flexible plastic tubing and ran fresh water through the engine. It took about 5 minutes for the output to run clear. I should add that I also needed to replace the water pump due to failure from the PO but after filling with Dex (following the FSM) I've not had any issues and the engine runs as expected... never exceeds 210 in the hottest days.
