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so i use the vacuum puller/sucker. ive used this tool on 7 cars since learning on my first c4 a couple years ago.
but every time I run into the same issue: air sneaks past the threads of the break bleeder valve.
I've tried everything, teflon tape, packing grease around the base of the bleeder valve, lots of stuff.last night on the 86 im refurbishing, I tried something new and it worked! I brushed on the silver anti-seize.
worked like a charm!
I do not know why it works better than regular Grease but it does.
just thought I'd share.
i'm sure there will be people who think it's dangerous and possible contamination is going to kill me or something but I've done it on the last seven cars with all sorts of media trying to stop the vacuum leak and everything is going fine so far. i highly doubt any contamination getting sucked past the threads before the seal forms sticks around. it gets drawn out with the old fluid.
speaking of that, I had to wipe the master cylinder because the Schmegma was so built up.
that came from the master cylinder walls and base. brushed anti-seize around the base. Far less than when I used to try and pack grease around it.
once i get the basics covered the car is getting a serious deep clean.
I use NeverSeize on EVERYTHING ! On brake bleeding we used to put a can under each caliper and gravity bleed all 4 simultaneously. You have to be patient and you have to watch the reservoir but it's the best - 100% no air !!!
..... I have had great success using Russel Speed Bleeders ... they have a thread sealant on them that works and a one-way check valve built in .....
So do the "Speed Bleeder" brand bleed screws. With this type of bleed valve installed on the caliper, there is no need for a second person to help or any sort of vacuum or pressurized air device.
Just open the bleed screw about 1/4 to 1/2 turn, install a rubber drain hose and push the brake pedal until you see fresh fluid or no more air bubbles..
So do the "Speed Bleeder" brand bleed screws. With this type of bleed valve installed on the caliper, there is no need for a second person to help or any sort of vacuum or pressurized air device.
Just open the bleed screw about 1/4 to 1/2 turn, install a rubber drain hose and push the brake pedal until you see fresh fluid or no more air bubbles..
for this method, can you press the pedal to force fluid out and then just release the pedal and hop out to fill the reservoir?
for this method, can you press the pedal to force fluid out and then just release the pedal and hop out to fill the reservoir?
That's what makes the speed bleeder so easy to use. But like any brake bleeding process, you need to keep an eye on the fluid level.
On thing I like about the Speed Bleeder brand is that they offer a bleeding kit. It's a plastic bag and a 3' long clear hose. Just slip the hose over the bleed valve and the old fluid is collected in the bag with no spilling. I keep mine in a gallon-size Zip-Lok bag along with a small wrench. I put a plug in the end of the hose so no fluid will leak out until I'm ready to empty the bag.
Speed Bleeder also has a small bottle of the sealing compound so that after a dozen or so bleeding sequences, you can remove the bleed valve, clean the threads, and add new sealant.
On thing I like about the Speed Bleeder brand is that they offer a bleeding kit. It's a plastic bag and a 3' long clear hose. Just slip the hose over the bleed valve and the old fluid is collected in the bag with no spilling. I keep mine in a gallon-size Zip-Lok bag along with a small wrench. I put a plug in the end of the hose so no fluid will leak out until I'm ready to empty the bag.
Speed Bleeder also has a small bottle of the sealing compound so that after a dozen or so bleeding sequences, you can remove the bleed valve, clean the threads, and add new sealant.
It is very water soluble so you can let it fall on the driveway and wash it away quickly and easily. If you insist, you can put a Chinese take out box after you ate everything there to collect the fluid.
But if you have multiple cars, you are going to need to put that sealant on so air doesn't get past the threads. That is why I prefer to use the pressure thing. Pushes it out and you don't have to worry about air going back. I have to do it for 5 cars every 2 years so it isn't bad.
aklim u are talking about air getting past the threads as the system tries to suck air back in after releasing your foot off the pedal? the one way valve protects from that happening throughbleed nepple orifice but the air can sneak in the threads?
is that what you mean?
i think the pressurized reservoir does sound like a win.
It is very water soluble so you can let it fall on the driveway and wash it away quickly and easily. If you insist, you can put a Chinese take out box after you ate everything there to collect the fluid.
But if you have multiple cars, you are going to need to put that sealant on so air doesn't get past the threads. That is why I prefer to use the pressure thing. Pushes it out and you don't have to worry about air going back. I have to do it for 5 cars every 2 years so it isn't bad.
The speed bleeders are designed to permanently replace the factory bleeders. So a set of 4 is needed for each vehicle. Not all cars have the same thread pitch for bleed valves. Some bleeders are longer than others and some have different widths.
aklim u are talking about air getting past the threads as the system tries to suck air back in after releasing your foot off the pedal? the one way valve protects from that happening throughbleed nepple orifice but the air can sneak in the threads?
is that what you mean?
i think the pressurized reservoir does sound like a win.
That is kinda what I am wondering about. How it prevents air sneaking back through the threads. I suppose the sealant swells up enough so it might work.
The speed bleeders are designed to permanently replace the factory bleeders. So a set of 4 is needed for each vehicle. Not all cars have the same thread pitch for bleed valves. Some bleeders are longer than others and some have different widths.
That part I get. What I don't get is how it prevents air from going back into the caliper since the sealing area is no longer in contact with the caliper. Is the sealant swelling up to block air coming in when the brake pedal is retracted and a vacuum is created? I have heard some people have issues with an air bubble or two or have had fluid leak past the threads which is why I wonder.
On my Speed Bleeder valves, the sealant is applied to the threads and is fairly thick. It also covers about 1/4" in length of the threads. The sealant appears to be more of a soft plastic and when they are installed for the first time, some of that sealant is applied to the female threads on the caliper side.
Because only a quarter turn of the bleed screw is needed to allow the fluid to flow, the amount of sealant on the threads will keep air from entering around the threads. Maybe that quarter turn is what keeps air out. And pushing fluid from the M/C into the caliper shouldn't allow air to enter. The spring behind the checkball forces the ball to stop flow when the brake pedal stops being pressed. The ball is at the caliper end of the bleeder so once it closes, air should not get in at all. At lease that's never happened to me.
I have had great sucess with teflon tape but you have to use 6-9 layers because the tape being produced now is not as thick as it was 10 years ago...which is why failures happen that did not happen before.
06-28-2017, 08:03 PM
a tip ive learned on brake bleeding
That's what makes the speed bleeder so easy to use. But like any brake bleeding process, you need to keep an eye on the fluid level.
