When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thanks, I've looked through that. The only thing on the troubleshooting list I haven't done is remove the head unit. My only hesitation is that the pressure got down to 21 psi and the compressor did not cycle yet if I disconnect the connector from the cycling switch the compressor shuts off. Seem to point to the cycling switch?
I'm the second owner (bought it with 35K on it a few months ago) and to my knowledge and original owner the system has never been messed with or recharged so I'm thinking is not an overcharged situation.
Thanks, I've looked through that. The only thing on the troubleshooting list I haven't done is remove the head unit. My only hesitation is that the pressure got down to 21 psi and the compressor did not cycle yet if I disconnect the connector from the cycling switch the compressor shuts off. Seem to point to the cycling switch?
I'm the second owner (bought it with 35K on it a few months ago) and to my knowledge and original owner the system has never been messed with or recharged so I'm thinking is not an overcharged situation.
I posted those because IHBD hinted he might like to see. I don't know why the circuit operation didn't open as an image but the link works.
The switch should be an exchange and I'd think likely the next move. Is it actually the correct switch? Not just fit and # of terminals but actually a correct part?
**If not the switch maybe just a "clean of the C68" control will make it function correctly. There should be tutorials here in the forum. Snapshots are likely missing but the tutorial I'd think intact.
WVZR-1.. thanks for the info. I'm going to get another switch now and see what happens. I agree after this it's dig into the dash. I've had a bunch of c4s so I've had the head apart before and never have really had a problem with them except the button contacts being intermittent.
Ok, tried the heat and when it's set to the floor vent it turns off the clutch. I put the gauges back on and ran it for a 5-7 minutes between 1500 and 2000 rpm. The lowest the pressure dropped to was 21 but the clutch never disengaged. Maybe the Napa (China) cycling switch I put in was defective? Not sure what else to think except either the cycling switch or a/c head? I know disconnecting the cycling switch disengages the compressor.
Run the AC and set the fan to "1". You will be able to pull the low side down much further much easier. Then you can see when and if the cycling switch will open (ever).
If you get below 20 the switch is no good. (which we probably looks like to be at this time.)
Ok, thanks to everyone for the info. I put fan on 1 and got it down to about 16. The clutch disengage at about 16-17 which seems to low. I'll swap the switch and report back. Thanks!
Run the AC and set the fan to "1". You will be able to pull the low side down much further much easier. Then you can see when and if the cycling switch will open (ever).
If you get below 20 the switch is no good. (which we probably looks like to be at this time.)
Ok, it's fixed thanks to everyone's advice. It changed the cycling switch and now with the fan on 1 and temp at 60 it cycles at idle. Turns off at about 21-22 and then back on shortly there after. No longer produces hard white ice on the low pressure line. This is the second time in a couple of months I changed a part and it was defective. I got the original switch at Napa in Poughkeepsie. The box look like it had been beat up. I'm beginning to believe people are returning parts that they've swapped out.
Again, many thanks to everyone for their help. I'll drive it this week and hopefully all will be good.
I'm beginning to believe people are returning parts that they've swapped out.
I bought a cabin filter yesterday (NAPA no less) - get ready to install today and the damn frame on the filter is missing a tab (busted off). The box didn't rattle so I expect maybe this wasn't it's first time out of the box. That NAPA is quite a trip for me, they'll replace it but it's certainly a damn nuisance.
This is the first time I've not opened a box in the store to check before leaving in a very long time. I was in a hurry and just a damn filter. That filter has become a 3 day deal now.
I know what you mean. Napa was 45 minutes away last Sunday but it was the only one in the area that was open and had it. When I looked at it I was thinking this doesn't look that great but it was the only option. I'm not going to bother to take it back, it's not worth the 1 1/2 hour round trip.
I know what you mean. Napa was 45 minutes away last Sunday but it was the only one in the area that was open and had it. When I looked at it I was thinking this doesn't look that great but it was the only option. I'm not going to bother to take it back, it's not worth the 1 1/2 hour round trip.
Napa - "Get the good stuff" not anymore. Same as the rest of them, quality is traded in for more profits.
Your 16 psi equates to about 17 or 18 deg in you evaporator which will freeze up with highway driving.
xrav, I thought there must be some confusion. Your book is talking about the evap inlet pipe, but the OP's question was about the outlet pipe to the accumulator. Whole different story!
Then it seems to be freezing up the evap, and continuing to the accumulator(thats when it slows blower), if that inlet line is frosty too, then low coolant situation. I will not forget about moisture in the system that is possible. PO may have left system open for a period of time. I redid my whole system with flushing fluid in a can and it is working great but I would like to redo it with a another new accumulator. His gauge pressures seemed low to me. I like that pic I am going to save it.
07-15-2017, 11:54 AM
