Bfenty

One other thing that I just realized is probably worth noting-my EGR system was deleted by PO. Doing some reading online, that could cause some knock, right?

Bfenty

has anyone been able to hear the sound I'm talking about on my video? The car is pretty loud but it is a distinct ticking or rattling sound, twice in the video, once about 4 seconds in and then about 10 seconds in, each time for about 2 seconds long. Those were the times that I put my foot down a little bit (although not even close to WoT).

Tom400CFI

I heard it, but I can't tell if it's pinging or not through my 'puter speaker.

Can you get your hands on a scan tool and look for knock counts while doing that?

I agree w/an earlier suggestion about checking for a loose/rattling exhaust part.

Bfenty

It's only got the OBDI port. I can order a scan tool on eBay but that might be a next paycheck kind of thing...

It actually almost never throws the code 43 even though it is making this sound fairly consistently. There's a slight hesitation in the engine associated with it too, I think-it's hard to tell really. I'm still not 100% sure it's actually a knock, although it fits the description. If it's exhaust rattle I'm less concerned. I will say that the exhaust is aftermarket catback (the cat is actually removed), but the original factory parts look pretty rusted and beat up. It's completely possible it's rattling.

Bfenty

more info. this photo looks like pre-ignition is happening in the chamber. I know I had the timing checked by a shop, but I'm going to buy a timing light and check it myself. I think the spark advance might be too high. and even if it's not, I might back it off a bit. I still have a new knock sensor on the way, too.

Bfenty

Took it to ANOTHER mechanic, who has helped me out previously and specializes in older cars. He rode around with me, said he hears the noise and that it is most likely small amount of knock, but that honestly he'd drive it as it is and it's unlikely to cause serious engine damage. It's apparently a very faint knock. He said his guess is the engine is running a little lean which is causing it. He didn't check the timing, but he said it's most likely ok because of how well the car is running.

383vett

tIf you are running 93 octane with additional booster, you shouldn't have any knock. Driving it long term like that will not be good for the motor. At least check the timing. That would be the place to start and I'm surprised you hadn't done it yet. Disconnect the esc wire (tan and brown near the driver's side of the distributor), hook up a timing light and check to see if it is at 6 degrees. Some people like to set it at 12 and that may be your problem.

Bfenty

yea I will do that

383vett

Good luck and let us know what the timing is. Could simply be overadvanced.

s carter

Also give a look at the Balancer make sure there are no Rubber bits Hanging out or Missing of it and it Has NOT possibly moved on it's inner Hub, If the Inner & outer has moved from each other timing marks will NOT be Right.

Bfenty

so i know that timing is simple but ive never done it, so if something is wrong I’m not sure I’d notice.

Also, my intake air temp sensor was disconnected. It wasn’t throwing a check engine but code 23 was set. I reconnected it but haven’t had a chance to test drive. I’m pretty sure that could cause a lean condition, even if that’s not the cause of the knock.

desertmike1

Sounds like your getting down on this! I'd be Curious if the IAT Disconnect has anything to do with the Pinging sound you might be hearing.. Assuming it's really an Engine Ping to begin with.

Bfenty

Would an engine ping get louder or quieter with more or less throttle? There's a very direct relationship between the volume of the sound and the amount of throttle I'm giving it (although there also has to be a load on the engine-revving at idle does NOT produce the sound).

383vett

Sounds like ping or a exhaust manifold leak.

Bfenty

a manifold leak...interesting. Hadn’t thought of that but that could easily be it.

I bought a timing light today. I can’t read the marks but it appears to be advanced a few degrees from 6-assuming 6 is the one with the larger divot in it. A pic of someone’s markings so I can figure out what I’m looking at would be appreciated. Also, the...balancer? Is that the spinning part? What part of that am I trying to line up? Want to make sure I’m looking at this right. Maybe I’ll try to post a video. Also, the spinning part isn’t steady in its position-it’s moving slightly, like 1 degree or so.

Thanks for for the help, I’m really not sure what I’m doing here. I understand the concept but never messed with engine timing before. Explain like I’m five would be great.

EDIT: my buddy who is more experienced with car work in general than I rode along today, and he heard the noise but said it’s very quiet and he’s not terribly concerned about it.

Whats the the best way to check for a manifold leak? If that’s all it is I will not worry too much.

383vett

With the motor off, clean off the timing plate with brakekleen or lacquer thinner. You should be able to read the numbers on the indentations or points. Sorry, mine is aftermarket so can't help you here. Make sure the est connector is disconnected and read the timing on the balancer. If off, you'll have to loosen and rotate the distributor one wAy or the other until the timing is correct. There must be a YouTube video of the process.

Bfenty

ill look on YouTube. Every video I’ve seen just says “check your timing down here (points to front of engine) then adjust distributor to compensate.” I just want to make sure I’m reading the timing marks correctly before I make things worse instead of better.

edit: I found a pic of the marks. This thing is WAY advanced I think. Like more than 12 degrees. It runs ok other than knock under acceleration though-should I still retard it back to 6?

s carter

I just add once cleaned up you can rub some Crayon into the groove on balancer and on the Scale, so the marks jump out more an be easily read.

cardo0

You need to get a shop manual with diagnostic charts and tune up information. Most of your symptoms are all ready in the forum archives here and you need to use the forum search function for most of your questions. This may sound patronizing but your problems seem to increase as others provide advice. You should use more of the resources available here. Providing as much information on your engine and modifications and repairs is unavoidable if you want accurate assistance.

You may find you need a real time scanner for sorting out your timing problems. I do see crappy looking spark plug but no metal flakes that would indicate piston damage. A real time scanner and a dyno maybe required for your current bad tune. And your ECM requires a non-eraserable memory chip. It's looking expensive unless you can find a component degrading/failure causing this.

Yes we all have to start the learning process somewhere/sometime. Focusing your efforts will help others trying to help you.

Good luck Bfently.

Bfenty

Thanks. I'm well aware of how little I know. My problems increase because I'm learning new things I never would have thought to even check for. For instance, someone had mentioned the balancer and rubber coming out of it. I took a look and, sure enough, there is rubber coming out of it-it appears to be shot. So that's something to start with.

I really appreciate all the help I receive on this forum, and I hope that comes across. I am certainly no mechanic, but I'm learning, and I want to avoid taking this car to a shop as much as possible. I'd rather learn how to fix it myself than let someone else do it.