s carter

If you have Rubber coming out the Balancer odds are outer Ring If NOT has moved it will soon so I would move that up on your To Do list because if it did move timing marks are Useless and if it Totally Fails it can Opens up Can's of Worms that you could do without.

Changing a Balancer is a Bit of a Knuckle Buster and given the tight spaces the Proper tools can make it Easier

Bfenty

Thank you-yeah it sounds like it need to move up on the todo list. You mention the proper tools-anything besides a breaker bar, ratchet, and balancer puller (which I will rent)? Is it like an all-day Saturday kind of job, or easier than that? I'll google to find more info but sounds like you've done this, so any advice is appreciated.

s carter

A Dampener installer is a MUST preferably with a short shaft.

Bfenty

Something like this?

s carter

Without putting my hands on it Directly on, this is the Closest that I to what I have from Mac Tools that worked for me.

http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools...ler/391373_0_0

Bfenty

Awesome, thanks.

What does that actually do? I understand the concept of the puller, that's pretty straightforward, but I thought I would just slide the new one on?

s carter

NOPE the old one is pulled with Force. The new one is Drawn Back on with the Installer. Some May say smack it with a hammer to get started and draw on with the Crank Bolt WRONG!!!!! Mess up the Crank Threads Ouch rather not. Line up the Keyway use tool correctly don't let Installer Shaft over tighten in Crank goes together Fairly easy, Remove Installer.

Install Crank Bolt Torque the crank bolt Correctly(60ft. if memory is Correct) and you should be to go.

Bfenty

Thanks! catastrophe potentially avoided.

s carter

It might be Kind of Interesting if you check Timing before and after the Dampener is replaced to see if the Dampener has slipped.

Also make Sure the New Dampener has the Timing line on it, Though I have never seen one without I have Heard someone saying in a post About Top Dead Center Post talk about His Didn't Have it.

Bfenty

Got the new balancer installed. It had the timing mark on it, but I added some model paint to it anyway to make it easier to see.

Couple notes on the installation:

Removal was easy. Took maybe 30 minutes. The power steering line doesn't need to be moved, it has a nice little loop in it right where the tool goes-I'd even venture to say it was designed with this in mind.

Re-attachment wasn't so easy. I had read on here that I should just tap the thing into place with a hammer and wood block. I tried that but there's no room to swing the hammer. I'd have to take out a significant amount of stuff to do this.

I rented the tool (you need the 'standard', not the 'long reach' from Autozone). It's the 7/16 20 bolt adapter that you use.

That sucker was HARD to get on there. I was cranking with a large crescent wrench with a pipe extension on it, and it was still nearly impossible to move for me. Maybe my desk job is just getting to me, but man that was difficult. I used trans fluid to lube it up before sliding on there and it still was very difficult.

After I got it done, there is a noticeable improvement in engine vibration. The old balancer was completely shot, for sure-the ring had slipped pretty badly and the rubber was out all over the place.

With the right tools this is a 1-2 hr job. Definitely get the install tool, it will make your life so much easier.

Hope this helps someone else out there.

383vett

Good job. Gotta be careful what you read on forums. Except for a couple light taps with a wood block and hammer, you don't want to pound on the thing. Get a FSM and a small block engine assembly book. You'll need nothing more.

s carter

I am Surprised it Fought you going on, you did pretty much the same thing I did in the past a Lite oil but before the oil I normally give a cleaning with a little steel wool or wet 600 sand paper and diesel or some other lite oil cleaner. Just like you ATF or some Spray Lube and I never really had one that Fought me Effort YES Fight Hard No.

With the effort it took just Imagine if you went the start with a Hammer and draw on with Crank bolt route, that would have been a whole other pile of Forum posts

Bfenty

Yup. Wouldn't even attempt that.

aguilar92c4

it sounds identical to a tambourine. It is a mettalic sound.

Bfenty

OK-I get that under HARD acceleration, like WOT.

383vett

Do your plugs have little black spots on them? That usually accompanies light detonation.

Bfenty

Not that I've noticed. Below is a pic, they all look about the same.

383vett

Looks like a nice plug. I don't see signs of detonation.

Bfenty

Thanks-that's what I'm thinking too. I've had several people who know WAY more than I do about cars ride with me in the last few weeks, and all of them say that it doesn't really sound like it's knocking-it's too quiet. They say it might be exhaust leaking-it has more of a 'pfft' sound to it (like exhaust escaping) with a little bit of rattle than of metal banging. It's hard to tell these things though and I may be chasing this noise for years.

I know it DOES knock under WOT, I've had that happen a few times and it's much louder and sounds just like a tambourine. I still need to work to fix that, but I think as long as I avoid stomping the accelerator it will be fine.