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Heat soak in starter 85

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Old 08-12-2017, 09:26 PM   #1
xrav22
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Default Heat soak in starter 85 Solved

Hi I am getting starter trouble after long trips, had to jump start, and was wondering if it is better to use a shield, a better starter or can I wrap the exhaust(prefer to do this) without damaging the cat.
Thanks for replies.

This one looks pretty good.
https://www.pepboys.com/product/deta...205.7L%2520OHV

Last edited by xrav22; 08-13-2017 at 05:13 PM. Reason: Solved
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Old 08-12-2017, 11:31 PM   #2
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This starter design is prone to heat soak problems with the solenoid. I used to own a 1970 442 with a 455 engine and headers that was a bear to start when hot. There are several ways to address: a heat shield for the starter, wrapping the exhaust, relocating the starter contactor. I had to do all three on my 442 to solve the problem...

Steve
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Old 08-12-2017, 11:35 PM   #3
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I think I will start by wrapping a 1 ft section of exhaust(if that sounds like a bad idea let me know), my starters are not lasting long enough. I am sure the exhaust is taking to the next level. When it is real hot out keep in mind.

Last edited by xrav22; 08-12-2017 at 11:38 PM.
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Old 08-12-2017, 11:46 PM   #4
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New starter, new cables, new battery. Replace them all you'll be golden i promise. I just went through the Mojave desert TWICE and around Death Valley running in 103-107 degrees for hours and my car started no problems.
The other stuff is just kinda foolish work.

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Old 08-13-2017, 04:18 PM   #5
ctmccloskey
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Default Wrapping the exhaust is not the "perfect solution".

Hello,

I wrapped exhaust pipes on vehicles in the past and found it to be a patch that does not solve the issue at hand.

Like suggested above your electrical system probably needs some maintenance. It might not need much but with a strong battery and good connections at both ends you will find it will start easier....

I have a C3 427 in a convertible Corvette and it is running 12.25-1 compression ratio and it likes to run HOT. I have ceramic coated headers on the car which is supposed to make things worse as far as heat is concerned.

I started developing "starting issues" when the C3 Corvette was hot. I removed the starter and had it checked out and it was fine mechanically but it struggled to start when the engine was hot. I ended up getting a geared starter from Summit. Now it sounds like a Chrysler (God Forbid) but it starts right up under any conditions. I can live with the sounds from the starter to have reliability in my car again.

I would put something between your exhaust and the starter like a heat deflector before I would wrap the exhaust. My old Corvette had a LT-1 motor in it and it was able to start anytime even when hot. I am pretty sure it had a plate that mounted on the starter to keep the heat away.

I have seen people put wraps on their starters before, this might work but it will keep the heat "in" as much as it will help stop outside heat from causing the starter to heat up. There really is no easy solution to this issue.

I felt like an idiot when I was installing the new gear driven starter as I discovered "why" I was having problems in the first place. Something had perforated the jacket of the large wire supplying the starter. It had started to corrode inside the wire and several of the strands of wire were crumbling in my hand. There was so much corrosion inside the wires jacket and yet to the eye it looked perfect. The voltage was there but the wire was not able to supply the full amount of amperage to the starter. I was more surprised that the wire had not turned itself into a fusible link or even overheated and set the car on fire.
I replaced the wire and since I had installed the new starter it was simpler just to use the gear drive as I needed it for my compression anyway. At this point the car would start at any time.

Check your wires carefully, twice in my life I have had wires fail and both times there was damage to the wire causing an entry point for corrosion. I am not a big believer in using needles to test for voltage as every time you do that you open the wire up for corrosion. If you do use a needle then seal the hole with something like silicone or good electrical tape.

Use a good multimeter and check the resistance of the wires if they are suspect. Also check the factory ground straps and connections as they can bite you just as badly....

I wish you the very best in solving your cars issues!
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Old 08-13-2017, 05:13 PM   #6
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I just wanted to post I went under and noticed my supply wire was loose. Very loose. I cleaned up the connector which looked very good and no more start problems. I think wrapping the exhaust just underneath the starter might work . Anyways she started all mornig so it is fixed. Thx for tips!
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Old 08-13-2017, 05:30 PM   #7
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Sounds like you've found your issue but I'll add a comment here in case it affects others. One comment early on lead me to believe it was not a heat soak issue. The fact that the vehicle would start if jumped is the point in question. Based on my experience (which I admit is a long time ago) if a starter was heat soaked it wouldn't crank regardless of whether you went from the internal or externally jumped battery. It wouldn't crank till it physically cooled down.

Now if you had a bad connection, bad battery, bad solonoid etc, then you could have a case where it wouldn't crank till jumped.
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Old 08-13-2017, 06:39 PM   #8
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Mini high torque starter is a good choice IMO. I had the same issues with my 383 in my C3 and went through two brand new starters, it would not start at all after the motor was hot. Went to a PowerMaster mini high torque starter and have not had any issues what's so ever and that was 12 years ago. Hopefully it isn't something else. Good luck.

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Old 08-14-2017, 07:44 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buccaneer View Post
Mini high torque starter is a good choice IMO. I had the same issues with my 383 in my C3 and went through two brand new starters, it would not start at all after the motor was hot. Went to a PowerMaster mini high torque starter and have not had any issues what's so ever and that was 12 years ago. Hopefully it isn't something else. Good luck.
+1, had this issue with one of the 2nd gen Camaro's I used to own. Replaced the starter with a high torque mini starter and never had another issue.
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Old 08-14-2017, 08:41 AM   #10
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When I was looking for a starter I saw a few that were listed as Extreme Duty or "high temp starters" , the discription said they were not affected by high temps from the exhaust or engine.. I believe they had shielding built in that dissipated the heat so the internals never get hot..These starters were a little more money but well worth it if you have a heat problem...WW
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Old 08-14-2017, 12:05 PM   #11
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Switch to the 88-91 starter, no need to wrap exhaust, which I would never do.

You may need to shim, or extend a wire, but I did not have to do so when I switched on my 86.
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Old 08-14-2017, 01:29 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctmccloskey View Post
I would put something between your exhaust and the starter like a heat deflector before I would wrap the exhaust...... people put wraps on their starters before, this might work but it will keep the heat "in" as much as it will help stop outside heat from causing the starter to heat up.
I bought an insulating blanket, which the ad hype claimed would deflect heat. I quickly learned it just kept more heat IN the starter, worsening the problem; a total waste of $$.

I've had good luck and noted a performance boost from wrapped/special heat painted headers; a distant second choice to ceramic coating. Never saw a hint of crystallized metal or such, as some assert will happen, even when removing them and cutting off the wrap. This dry clime and the paint prevents much, if any, moisture entrapment.

Ceramic coating, like the heat wrap, keeps much of the heat inside the exhaust, which is much friendlier to the underhood plastics and boosts thermal efficiency of those tubes, as I noted with the wrap. It surprised me but was a SOTP reality. I'll never use uncoated headers again, on any vehicle.

I'll put in a HUGE (and rare) plug for IMI gear-driven starters in Whittier,CA.
http://www.hitorque.com/

I support local small businesses of high caliber. IMI rebuilt my 10 year old starter at no cost, while I waited, when I was chasing a hot start issue. Turns out, it was neither starter nor solenoid, but a crappy Interstate battery. Ya gotta love a small guy, who told Hitachi to pack sand when they tried to buy the biz (eliminate all competition).

Last edited by whalepirot; 08-14-2017 at 01:31 PM.
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