....just replaced brake booster and have some thoughts
08-14-2017, 06:25 PM
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
....just replaced brake booster and have some thoughts
Just replaced the vacuum booster on my '93 Ruby Coupe.
I read through the excellent procedures here on the Forum first - as always - which made the job infinitely easier.
The job turned out well - no more HARD PEDAL! And it took me about
6 hr over 2 days.
So here are some thoughts for anyone about to do likewise.
I am amazed that anyone has ever done this without removing the
seat!
I didn't have to remove the Master Cylinder, but did loosen the ASR
unit and moved it out of the way for more M/C room.
The ECM mounts to a plastic plate which mounts to the bracket
between the firewall and the booster - you can remove this plate from
the bracket for more room after unbolting the ECM.
I removed and reinstalled the 1/2" nuts that hold the booster to the
firewall laying on my back, head up by the brake pedal. Used an 18"
extension with a universal joint right at the socket.
As long as i was down there, i adjusted the dimmer switch by loosening
the 2 screws that hold it to the steering column - (back one 7mm,
front one 10mm!) - and moving it a bit to where it worked.
Adjusted the brake light switch and cruise switch by pushing them
in/out per the procedure - even tho they look threaded.
I really hope this helps someone, possibly me if i need to do it again!
I read through the excellent procedures here on the Forum first - as always - which made the job infinitely easier.
The job turned out well - no more HARD PEDAL! And it took me about
6 hr over 2 days.
So here are some thoughts for anyone about to do likewise.
I am amazed that anyone has ever done this without removing the
seat!
I didn't have to remove the Master Cylinder, but did loosen the ASR
unit and moved it out of the way for more M/C room.
The ECM mounts to a plastic plate which mounts to the bracket
between the firewall and the booster - you can remove this plate from
the bracket for more room after unbolting the ECM.
I removed and reinstalled the 1/2" nuts that hold the booster to the
firewall laying on my back, head up by the brake pedal. Used an 18"
extension with a universal joint right at the socket.
As long as i was down there, i adjusted the dimmer switch by loosening
the 2 screws that hold it to the steering column - (back one 7mm,
front one 10mm!) - and moving it a bit to where it worked.
Adjusted the brake light switch and cruise switch by pushing them
in/out per the procedure - even tho they look threaded.
I really hope this helps someone, possibly me if i need to do it again!
08-15-2017, 01:42 PM
#2
Melting Slicks
I saw no reason to remove a seat and contort my body to remove 2 nuts.
I removed the hush panel - 2 screws 1 retainer and a light connector
removed the reinforcement panel - 4 bolts
lowered steering column - 2 bolts
At that point you can clearly see the nuts holding the booster and reach them with a couple long extensions while sitting on the driver's seat.
08-15-2017, 06:36 PM
#3
Instructor
Just replaced the vacuum booster on my '93 Ruby Coupe.
I read through the excellent procedures here on the Forum first - as always - which made the job infinitely easier.
The job turned out well - no more HARD PEDAL! And it took me about
6 hr over 2 days.
So here are some thoughts for anyone about to do likewise.
I am amazed that anyone has ever done this without removing the
seat!
I didn't have to remove the Master Cylinder, but did loosen the ASR
unit and moved it out of the way for more M/C room.
The ECM mounts to a plastic plate which mounts to the bracket
between the firewall and the booster - you can remove this plate from
the bracket for more room after unbolting the ECM.
I removed and reinstalled the 1/2" nuts that hold the booster to the
firewall laying on my back, head up by the brake pedal. Used an 18"
extension with a universal joint right at the socket.
As long as i was down there, i adjusted the dimmer switch by loosening
the 2 screws that hold it to the steering column - (back one 7mm,
front one 10mm!) - and moving it a bit to where it worked.
Adjusted the brake light switch and cruise switch by pushing them
in/out per the procedure - even tho they look threaded.
I really hope this helps someone, possibly me if i need to do it again!
I read through the excellent procedures here on the Forum first - as always - which made the job infinitely easier.
The job turned out well - no more HARD PEDAL! And it took me about
6 hr over 2 days.
So here are some thoughts for anyone about to do likewise.
I am amazed that anyone has ever done this without removing the
seat!
I didn't have to remove the Master Cylinder, but did loosen the ASR
unit and moved it out of the way for more M/C room.
The ECM mounts to a plastic plate which mounts to the bracket
between the firewall and the booster - you can remove this plate from
the bracket for more room after unbolting the ECM.
I removed and reinstalled the 1/2" nuts that hold the booster to the
firewall laying on my back, head up by the brake pedal. Used an 18"
extension with a universal joint right at the socket.
As long as i was down there, i adjusted the dimmer switch by loosening
the 2 screws that hold it to the steering column - (back one 7mm,
front one 10mm!) - and moving it a bit to where it worked.
Adjusted the brake light switch and cruise switch by pushing them
in/out per the procedure - even tho they look threaded.
I really hope this helps someone, possibly me if i need to do it again!
The following users liked this post:
Enderlin (08-16-2017)
08-16-2017, 01:15 AM
#4
Advanced
Thread Starter
I saw no reason to remove a seat and contort my body to remove 2 nuts.
I removed the hush panel - 2 screws 1 retainer and a light connector
removed the reinforcement panel - 4 bolts
lowered steering column - 2 bolts
At that point you can clearly see the nuts holding the booster and reach them with a couple long extensions while sitting on the driver's seat.
I removed the hush panel - 2 screws 1 retainer and a light connector
removed the reinforcement panel - 4 bolts
lowered steering column - 2 bolts
At that point you can clearly see the nuts holding the booster and reach them with a couple long extensions while sitting on the driver's seat.
08-16-2017, 07:42 AM
#5
Melting Slicks
08-29-2017, 12:48 PM
#6
I just did this as well on my 94. The one thing that I did not see mentioned anywhere is that I found it was necessary to remove the cross brace that goes from the frame behind the a-arm up to the firewall in order to get the booster out. Other than that it was a pretty straightforward repair. I too was able to do this without having to open the hydraulic system, I just unbolted and moved the ASR and that made plenty of room for the master cylinder.
