C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

oil temp 261 coolant temp 241 -- no airdam the cause?

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Old 08-27-2017, 06:14 PM
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VikingTrad3r
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Default oil temp 261 coolant temp 241 -- no airdam the cause?

*****please refer to post 47 for the final solution. as usual withbthese c4’s. there were multiple issues layered. the root was the plugged cat. ***

this is on my 86 4+3 that ive restored.

what i find is that if the car is just idling it refulates its temps no problem. however the faster i go the hotter it gets.

if i come to a stop light it actually cools itself.

i suspect it gets hot while driving because there is no airdam installed?

forward motion rams the air through the condensor and rad.....to compensate for the 2500 rpm as i drive fast?

i dripped the oil and replaced with mobil 1 for heat resistance but those temps are hot.

my trans tunnel is also getting brutally hot to the point where the heads of the screws will sting the skin as the arm rests on the shifter consul.

thoughts? yes ill pull the radiator shroud. im also going to inspect the 4+3 cooling lines for vlockage.



WHAT ARE THE C4 ROAD TRACK GUYS DOING to keep things cooled off?

does the air dam make that much of a difference?

Last edited by VikingTrad3r; 09-18-2019 at 12:44 PM.
Old 08-27-2017, 06:59 PM
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c4cruiser
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You do need the air dam in place. It's designed to direct air up into the A/C condenser and radiator. Without that airflow, the radiator won't have any way of controlling the coolant temps.
Old 08-27-2017, 07:27 PM
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billschroeder5842
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Originally Posted by VikingTrad3r
yes ill pull the radiator shroud. im also going to inspect the 4+3 cooling lines for vlockage.
YIKES! I see your concern! Your temps are way too high.

You are already on the air dam. That will help.

You are yet to pull the shroud so good next move. I bet you will find a mess of debris and removing that will make a difference in air flow.

If that does not make a difference, you are looking at flushing, re coring or new radiators.

Have you also considered altering your temp sensors so the fans come on sooner?
Old 08-27-2017, 07:29 PM
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cv67
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you gotta have one on there, think theres one made thats deeper than stock too.
Used to be a product called the big mouth air dam havent seen them around in a long time but they help, hosing out those fins in the radiator always good practice also. You wouldnt believe how packed with tiny bits of stuff they pick up, do all the vehicles once a yr
Old 08-27-2017, 07:37 PM
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L.V. Vette
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I had the same issue with my old L98 IROC. The engine was fine when the car was idling, but, would over heat when driven. The reason was that the engine was under load and the cooling system needed the extra air flow from the air dam. Once I installed an air dam, never had a cooling problem.
Old 08-27-2017, 08:29 PM
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well thnx boys.

air dam ordered.

heading to the lake for a few days so ill install when i get back.

looking fwd to the easter eggs under the shroud. ill be sure to post pics if there is anything under there.
Old 08-27-2017, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by VikingTrad3r
looking fwd to the easter eggs under the shroud. ill be sure to post pics if there is anything under there.
Here is what I found when I took my 89 apart after I picked it up a couple of months ago. It would run at about 225-230 and after I cleaned it out it would run 195-205 max.
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Old 08-27-2017, 10:08 PM
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holy mackerel bill

thats a bail of hay.
Old 08-27-2017, 11:38 PM
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yeah ill do that at the same time fo sho. i should probably give the whole block the good vinegar douche while im at it then let it pour out the knock sensor and drive around with the prestone for a couple days.
Old 08-28-2017, 02:44 PM
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Silver85
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Had the same issue with mine. Cleaning the radiator exterior helped but didn't solve the problem. Ended up being a t-stat that wasn't opening up fully. I replaced with a 180 degree t-stat, changed the water pump and rad cap at the same time since they were both original.
Old 08-28-2017, 04:09 PM
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silver85, were you missing the air dam as well? looking fwd to looking under my radiator shroud. i may pop the tstat and replace to be sure. thnx for the suggestion. wont be till the end of the week though.

our at the cabin. i am blessed with a family that flys helicopters and i had an extraordinary trip over the rockies this morning.

here are some pics i took to share with my forum friends!

glaciers


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Old 08-28-2017, 04:18 PM
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Wow That's Horrible High Temps like that Ruin ****
I'd change trans and engine oil
Old 08-28-2017, 07:47 PM
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what interesting is that the car was clearly neglected and im guessing these temps are typical for the recent history of the car. all tests checked out, compression, leakdown, and oil pressure idles on a super hot engine at 40psi. so im thinking there is no damage. ill get the items completed herein and report back.
Old 08-28-2017, 08:18 PM
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Synthetic oils should be used when expected temperatures are over 230F as conventional oils could begin breaking down above that temperature.
But keep in mind, if the GF-4 certification is on the bottle of the oil in your crankcase, it has passed the Sequence IIIG test which exposes the oil to 300F degrees for 100 hrs at 3600 rpm
Try to keep yours Lower
Old 08-28-2017, 10:12 PM
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thanks cuda. that is comforting! as soon as i saw the high oil i dripped the cheapo oil i had in the engine as a "flush" oil and installed new filter plus mobil 1 10w30.

based on replies here ive done research on the issue and im going to predict i have crud btwn condensor and rad. ive also read that air dam on its own shouldnt be causing the high temps.

looking fwd to pulling that shroud and servicing the rad and cooling jacket.
Old 08-28-2017, 11:13 PM
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Wait the Air Dam is Important and the faster you go the more you need it to Direct the air up thru the nose of our cars . Well you know you have to unclog ur systems fins but the air dam is still needed

Last edited by cudamax; 08-28-2017 at 11:21 PM.
Old 08-29-2017, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by cudamax
Wait the Air Dam is Important and the faster you go the more you need it to Direct the air up thru the nose of our cars . Well you know you have to unclog ur systems fins but the air dam is still needed
yup ill get it done right and report back.

question though, how do the road track guys keep thier cars within the safe envelope?

i could quite easily see sustained oil temps in the 275F range on a road course track.

And when the zr1 made its record breaking 175 mph world record run how did it cool itself?

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To oil temp 261 coolant temp 241 -- no airdam the cause?

Old 08-29-2017, 04:51 PM
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The computer will not turn on the radiator fans above 35mph regardless of temperature. The engineers figured there's enough airflow above that speed that the fans would do no good. The engineers also assumed the air dam would be in place.
Old 09-02-2017, 08:44 PM
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anybody else ordered this?

https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette-fan


my main cooling fan is completely warped and not even close to balanced.

ive cleaned the bejesus out of the rad and condensor and also put in a new electic motor in.

my fan is not balanced. its totally out of round
Old 09-02-2017, 11:03 PM
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L98, right?


I don't have an air dam and mine doesn't run that hot. It gets hot idling and the temp goes down when driving.

Something is wrong.


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