Pwnage1337

About 2 weeks ago, I smoked my 700R4 after trying to make it live as long as possible behind my 383.

Last year a friend of mine picked me up a 4L80E as a core from an auction for $50. No idea on miles, no converter. Perfect candidate for a rebuild. I had it rebuilt earlier this year, in June.

This was intended to be a winter project but winter came a little early this year. I decided to go for an 80E instead of upgrading the 700R4 because I want to make bigger power down the road.

Got the old trans out, my plan is to try to copy the C beam adapter that I found after a long night of google images searching of C4 4L80 swaps. Looks to be made out of 4.5" x 4.5" Square tubing.

Trans controller is going to be an EZ-TCU from FAST/TCI.

I have a remote mount Plate/Fin Derale 13950 I plan on putting in the spare tire location.

Converter I just ordered on Friday, Edge Street Pro 3200 Stall

Driveshaft will be shortened at a local shop.

Enjoy my home made transmission jack, made from a piece of 1/2" MDF, a 1" Pipe flange, and 4 construction screws. Lol!

Right now I have the trans in place just for mockup purposes to get the C-Beam adapter figured out. Hopefully converter will be in some time next week.

Still need to order 4L80E Yoke and would like to V-band my exhaust while its apart.



















Follow along for more shenanigans



Jeremy

blackozvet

good luck !
things are pretty tight in there, I looked at the 4l60 option when my 700r4 went but it was a lot quicker to have the 700 built.

Pwnage1337

It's going to be a fun one for sure. Be good to finally get it installed, I've had parts laying around the garage for too long lol

Kevova

4L80e uses 32 spline Turbo 400 yoke. They can come with and without balancer ring if it matters. I think it's also used with the ZF 6 speed.

Pwnage1337

I was going to order a Yoke from summit, about $90. Uses a 1310 joint. Down the road when I put in a Dana 44 and have to shorten the C beam and DS again I'll swap to a 1350 Yoke for the 4L80 and have a custom DS built.

I kind of think the only way the D36 will live is on street tire so I don't plan on putting DRs on until I have a 44.

armybyrd

any chance you'd make more than one? I'm sure I'm not the only one who would pay for an 80e adapter.

Pwnage1337

​​​​​Possibly but I don't think I could guarantee that it will "just bolt up" as it would depend on what tailshaft people have when they get their 80E, and if they have a 36 or 44 in their car. I'm sure you could just redrill the C beam similar to what JoBy did.

After I get mine made I'll see how terrible it looks and let you guys know lol

Now would be the time since I could test fit them as they're made

WVZR-1

Shop your slip-yoke local for the drive-shaft. You should be able to do better likely price and if there are issues a swap is maybe easier. Does yours require a counter-bore?

Your 4L80e is still on the ground it seems so you could just pull the extension and check the output shaft to see if it will accept a full spline slip-yoke or if a counter-bore would be a better fit. Measuring the spline length regardless I'd think advantageous when shopping a slip-yoke.

It looks like your output shaft is maybe bored and threaded for a "bolt-on flange" if you wanted. I don't know if that's a plus or not.

Pwnage1337

Thanks for your input on the Yoke/Output shaft. To my knowledge, the 80E's all came with 1350 Yokes. Being that my driveshaft is a 1310, I can either buy a 1350 Yoke and a Conversion U-Joint for $200 from Summit, or a 1310 Yoke and 1310 Spicer X Series Joint for about $100. No idea why the 1350 Yoke's are so much more

My trans is actually in the car right now, mocking up for C-beam and adapter fabrication. The pictures with the AC Delco jackstand holding up the tailshaft is my trans. I don't have the converter yet, so this was strictly mockup right now

I've got the day off today so hopefully will be getting some progress made. Gotta get a chunk of metal first


Jeremy

WVZR-1

Are the last 3 snapshots yours or are those of another fabrication project? I thought it was your "empty case" used for fabrication and mock up.

Pwnage1337

The last 3 snapshots are what I intend to build - i found these images on the wonderful interwebs

383vett

Nice project. The 4l80e is quite a bit heavier than the previous tranny, but you'll never blow it.

WVZR-1

If you're not to deep into this yet maybe contact Pete and see if his extension will work with your current output shaft. I'm sure you've stumbled upon his snapshots around, likely the same place you've snagged the ones you posted.

https://zr1pete.wordpress.com/parts/

I'd think worth the price for something that's very likely much more substantial for te the higher powered application. A fabricated bracket maybe for a street build but I'd think likely very easy to break cases or extensions which create greater issues.

Pwnage1337

I've been curious about this myself. Wondering how much stress there is on the tailshaft of the trans itself, in relation to the C-beam. My original understanding was that it was primarily there to hold the *** end of the trans up - but after thinking about it more it became obvious that there is definitely some twisting going on there as the Trans is mated directly to the engine which has some twist. I run Poly motor mounts so hopefully that helps a bit on the torque twist, but i'm definitely still curious about just how much stress is applied to the tailshaft region of the trans

Pwnage1337

Current status:

Pwnage1337

Pwnage1337

Upon further mocking up/screwing around, it's become obvious that the C-Beam needs to be redrilled rearward of the Tailshaft. The bulge on the right side of the tailshaft does not allow for the bolts to align on the top side of the C-beam.

Looking closer at the pictures of the adapter I posted earlier, this is obviously what was done in that case. I plan to make mine so that I don't have to cut the body of the car (top left bolt) and instead bolt into the top right on the opposite side. I will likely whack an inch off the C-beam as its making contact with the bottom right bolts of the tailshaft

More updates as they come!

Pwnage1337

My chunk of metal is in, so I can pick it up tomorrow and resume the project

Mike Holmen

I liked how you solved putting C beam adapter on 4L80. You going to use a controller or going the manual route?

I'm probably going to have to upgrade to a t-56 or 4L80 at some point. Keep the pictures coming, will be great to follow along.

Pwnage1337

I'm going to run the FAST EZ TCU, it allows full manual with the flip of a toggle which is the way I like to drive. When I let other people drive they can just shut it off.