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700R4 common upgrades, wear items

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Old 10-09-2017, 10:29 PM
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ryank9398
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Default 700R4 common upgrades, wear items

My 1990 trans is sitting on the floor waiting for the engine to be rebuilt. Transmission was in fine working order with 114k miles on it, fresh fluid.

What would be wise to check or replace while it is convenient? I don't have the time or patience to completely rebuild myself before the snow flies, if the suggestions are too complex, I will take it in.

Engine rebuild: mild 383. Humor me and assume I will make 475lbft. 218/224 cam, 3.07 rear. no more than 2400 lockup converter.

I want it to be snappy and sporty, and take occasional abuse.
Old 10-09-2017, 10:36 PM
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Pwnage1337
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I would add a shift kit to help it live longer.

Transgo makes the best kits from what I gather, and they usually aren't too difficult to install

Last edited by Pwnage1337; 10-09-2017 at 10:43 PM. Reason: Forgot how to spell Chevy
Old 10-10-2017, 04:26 AM
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gerardvg
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Originally Posted by ryank9398
My 1990 trans is sitting on the floor waiting for the engine to be rebuilt. Transmission was in fine working order with 114k miles on it, fresh fluid.

What would be wise to check or replace while it is convenient? I don't have the time or patience to completely rebuild myself before the snow flies, if the suggestions are too complex, I will take it in.

Engine rebuild: mild 383. Humor me and assume I will make 475lbft. 218/224 cam, 3.07 rear. no more than 2400 lockup converter.

I want it to be snappy and sporty, and take occasional abuse.
Hi

Heat is an auto transmission enemy, fit a large air transmission cooler in front of the a/c condenser. That is the single most important upgrade for a T700, you have the improved 89 up T700 so most weak spots like pump and stronger housing improvements have been made.

Performance builds are not cheap, a few thousand dollars will give a fairly reliable transmission. If you are going an additional 100 to 150 hp you should be ok, I have blown so called 500 / 600 rated bullet proof expensive transmissions with all the heavy duty parts with a lot less horsepower. Torque is a killer found that out with a blower.
Over 20 years i have gone through 5x T700... 2x were 3K to 4K ones.
One lasted almost 10 years, the other only a few months.
After many heated conversations they came to the party with the one that lasted only a few months, now no more warranty for blown engines ..........

Last edited by gerardvg; 10-10-2017 at 04:27 AM.
Old 10-10-2017, 07:43 AM
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Pwnage1337
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Very good point with the cooler, higher stall will make more heat
Old 10-12-2017, 09:44 AM
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Mike Holmen
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I would install a constant line pressure valve body. What condition was the transmission oil? Was the pan fairly clean?

My 700R slips in second gear. I'm probably going to add more clutches to the first/second gear/drum and get the higher apply force servos. I plan to run a 10in converter 2800-3200 stall. Might even change the 700R first gear to the 2.86 gear from the 3.06

Last edited by Mike Holmen; 10-12-2017 at 09:52 AM.
Old 10-12-2017, 11:44 AM
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vette196
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I am doing a similar build on my '96. I'm doing the LE2 package(I think the cam is similar to yours), headers, and a 3.07 rear. My tranny has 91K miles on it and I'm getting it "checked out", hopefully a "soft rebuild". I'm going with a 3200 TC (as per Lloyd Elliott) and either a Yank or Vigilante TC. In reading the FAQ on the Yank site, they don't recommend a shift kit and I get the feeling the extra line pressure is hard on the trans, so I'm staying away from that mod.
I am also going to add a trans cooler, good insurance for $100
Old 10-12-2017, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ryank9398
I don't have the time or patience to completely rebuild myself before the snow flies, if the suggestions are too complex, I will take it in.
I'd decide right now which way it goes. Here is the problem. You bring me a box of parts and I install it, if everything goes well, life is good. If not, where do we begin? I blame the parts, parts blames me. YOU stand in the middle and get nowhere.

If I build it myself, I specify what I want. OTOH, I prefer to bring it to an expert like say Rossler Transmissions and I tell them what I want it to do and they build it. If it breaks, I look for them. You don't get the builder blaming your combination of parts or the parts itself and you don't get the parts group blaming me.
Old 10-14-2017, 11:56 AM
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RF1
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If it were mine I would pop out the pump and install hardened rings, and a new front pump bushing.
Next I would pop open the input drum and inspect the 3-4 pack, replacing those frictions if needed.
While the pan was down I would inspect the accumulator springs, as they often break.

Last edited by RF1; 10-14-2017 at 11:56 AM.
Old 10-14-2017, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by RF1
If it were mine I would pop out the pump and install hardened rings, and a new front pump bushing.
Next I would pop open the input drum and inspect the 3-4 pack, replacing those frictions if needed.
While the pan was down I would inspect the accumulator springs, as they often break.
Would the "Beast" be a good sunshell gear upgrade?
Old 11-05-2017, 07:58 PM
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ryank9398
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Originally Posted by Mike Holmen
I would install a constant line pressure valve body. What condition was the transmission oil? Was the pan fairly clean?

My 700R slips in second gear. I'm probably going to add more clutches to the first/second gear/drum and get the higher apply force servos. I plan to run a 10in converter 2800-3200 stall. Might even change the 700R first gear to the 2.86 gear from the 3.06
How are the part throttle shifts with a constant pressure valve body?
Old 11-06-2017, 01:12 AM
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Mr. Peabody
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I've been running a Yank 3200 with a 307 rearend for quite a while and have been very happy with it though I'm sure that you'll be making way more torque than I do with just a hot cam and headers.

I did the B&O trans cooler in front of the AC condenser and it made a significant difference in keeping the trans temp down.
Old 11-06-2017, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Peabody
I've been running a Yank 3200 with a 307 rearend for quite a while and have been very happy with it though I'm sure that you'll be making way more torque than I do with just a hot cam and headers.

I did the B&O trans cooler in front of the AC condenser and it made a significant difference in keeping the trans temp down.
How much difference did the cooler make?
Old 11-06-2017, 10:03 AM
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mrodoc
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Originally Posted by vette196
I am doing a similar build on my '96. I'm doing the LE2 package(I think the cam is similar to yours), headers, and a 3.07 rear. My tranny has 91K miles on it and I'm getting it "checked out", hopefully a "soft rebuild". I'm going with a 3200 TC (as per Lloyd Elliott) and either a Yank or Vigilante TC. In reading the FAQ on the Yank site, they don't recommend a shift kit and I get the feeling the extra line pressure is hard on the trans, so I'm staying away from that mod.
I am also going to add a trans cooler, good insurance for $100
I have an LE2. My cam is 227/234/.575/110 LSA. I suspect yours will be similar. Fairly hairy for street use. I have a 3000 TC. Works fine with the 3.07. Only problem is around town you when it shifts into overdrive, so I rarely put it in "D." That's why I have my differential out now. Going with a DANA 44 and 4.11. By all means put in a trans cooler. Very inexpensive and very simple to install. Mine is between the radiator and condensor. There is much controversy regarding running it through the radiator first then the cooler or bypassing the radiator. I decided to bypass the radiator. I just couldn't understand running my transmission fluid though a radiator that has extremely hot water running through it. But, I will get the wrath of some members for this.
Old 11-06-2017, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by mrodoc
I have an LE2. My cam is 227/234/.575/110 LSA. I suspect yours will be similar. Fairly hairy for street use. I have a 3000 TC. Works fine with the 3.07. Only problem is around town you when it shifts into overdrive, so I rarely put it in "D." That's why I have my differential out now. Going with a DANA 44 and 4.11. By all means put in a trans cooler. Very inexpensive and very simple to install. Mine is between the radiator and condensor. There is much controversy regarding running it through the radiator first then the cooler or bypassing the radiator. I decided to bypass the radiator. I just couldn't understand running my transmission fluid though a radiator that has extremely hot water running through it. But, I will get the wrath of some members for this.
BTW, mine is a 1994 LT1.

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