Cooling Down a L98, Is it Possible?
10-19-2017, 10:29 PM
#21
Burning Brakes
10-20-2017, 11:40 AM
#22
Melting Slicks
Wow! I am sure the roller rockers are an improvement, but seriously, how much heat and friction is generated by the stock stamped rockers? Seems there may have been another issue going on...
10-20-2017, 12:25 PM
#23
Melting Slicks
Drill 3-4 small holes (~1/8") in the thermostat for more flow, or use a Robt Shaw; my final WORKING solution, w/ a stock fan activated at 190.
10-20-2017, 02:52 PM
#24
Racer
More than you think. My oil temps are down anywhere from 10-15 degrees. I don't see high temps at all now. On the hottest day this summer the highest temp I had seen was 205 degrees and that was after coming off I90 and stopping at a red light at the end of the ramp.This is with the stock radiator and a 160" thermostat.
10-21-2017, 09:25 AM
#25
My car runs at 178 to 182 degrees all year long as long as the car is moving at least 30 mph.( My engine has never seen 200 degrees) I have a Dewitts radiator, a Dewitt's high speed fan , a 180 degree stat , a Stewart high flow water pump, and have my fan programmed to come on at 196 degrees , and go off at 180 degrees...This combination is the best I have found and the only time my car goes above 182 degrees is when I have an extended stay at a stop light... Even when the temps go up at a light , they go down to 180 degrees again in less then a minute after I start moving...Like mentioned above, the Dewitt's radiator is what makes the big difference, I'm also running a 383 stroker in my 89 which runs a little hotter then a stock 350.. The larger and more efficent Dewitt's radiator also stops the temps from rising as quickly when the car is stopped...
I tried using a 160 degree stat, and my car would run at 160 degrees in cold/cool weather with the Dewitt's radiator, this is way to cold for a engine to run. The 180 is perfect with this combination.. ..WW
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I tried using a 160 degree stat, and my car would run at 160 degrees in cold/cool weather with the Dewitt's radiator, this is way to cold for a engine to run. The 180 is perfect with this combination.. ..WW
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01-20-2019, 05:20 PM
#27
Melting Slicks
I know this has been hashed and rehashed many times, but I could not find a definitive answer. I, like many of you, think the L98 runs too hot for comfort. Is there any way to actually bring this engine to 180f max? I am thinking a bigger, 3 row radiator, and lower tstat should be enough to keep the operating temps lower. Is this logical, or am I missing something?
As a side note, I want to express how important it is for C4 owners to make sure you clean your radiator are of debris. I ignored this instruction for awhile, did it this weekend and was blown away by the amount or garbage and debris in there. Car still climbed to 230 easy in traffic, then fan brings temp to around 210. I would like it to never get to 230, if possible.
As a side note, I want to express how important it is for C4 owners to make sure you clean your radiator are of debris. I ignored this instruction for awhile, did it this weekend and was blown away by the amount or garbage and debris in there. Car still climbed to 230 easy in traffic, then fan brings temp to around 210. I would like it to never get to 230, if possible.
01-23-2019, 05:50 AM
#29
I remember a Hot Rod magazine article. They rebuilt a late model Camaro and it was running over 210. After trying a bunch of stuff they finally called someone that said the late model head is designed to run hot. I used a low temperature switch and 180 thermostat and my car ran between 190 and 215. Remember we don't like seeing 238 degrees but chevy will tell you the car is not over heating until 250.
01-24-2019, 03:52 PM
#30
Le Mans Master
I remember a Hot Rod magazine article. They rebuilt a late model Camaro and it was running over 210. After trying a bunch of stuff they finally called someone that said the late model head is designed to run hot. I used a low temperature switch and 180 thermostat and my car ran between 190 and 215. Remember we don't like seeing 238 degrees but chevy will tell you the car is not over heating until 250.
01-24-2019, 08:01 PM
#31
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
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St. Jude Donor '05
Ol zombie thread again lol
Low temp fan switch will help.
if I had to do it over I wouldnt bother with the spal fan unless it was a nice dual unit
Id grab the biggest late model electric GM fan I could find...say off a V8 luxury car or truck. They move tons of air and last practically forever.
Some guys pull them off of 4 and 6 cyl production cars and rave..get one that cools a larger V8 and wire them accordingly.
2200 cfm spal is Ok but would hate to get stuck in gridlock traffic in the summer think eventually it would struggle to keep temps in line.
Low temp fan switch will help.
if I had to do it over I wouldnt bother with the spal fan unless it was a nice dual unit
Id grab the biggest late model electric GM fan I could find...say off a V8 luxury car or truck. They move tons of air and last practically forever.
Some guys pull them off of 4 and 6 cyl production cars and rave..get one that cools a larger V8 and wire them accordingly.
2200 cfm spal is Ok but would hate to get stuck in gridlock traffic in the summer think eventually it would struggle to keep temps in line.
01-29-2019, 01:24 PM
#32
Drifting
Member Since: Mar 2017
Location: Nashville TN
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2017 C4 of Year Finalist
HAVING THE SYSTEM CLEAN IS ALL YOU NEED TO KEEP THE CAR COOL UNLESS YOU HAVE SIGNIFICANT MODS.
I cleaned out my radiator and run a stock tstat and never run over 200 with A/C on and in summer heat. Stop and go traffic is different, of course, but the fan still kicks on at 225 and cools it right back down. Running a colder tstat won't change ANYTHING in traffic and you don't need it (and the car runs worse) at speed. I ran a 160 for a while and the car stayed at 180 in summer heat. In the winter it never reached more than 162, which is too cold for the engine to run. You increase wear and it doesn't run as well, at least not without other modifications.
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