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I think the four bolts you are talking about are relatively long, and just the last inch or two is threaded? These may be metric, not sure? If you are going to try a hardware store take another one with you and try running it into a known nut size. That will confirm metric or not threading. If you want an original replacement bolt, I would try a corvette salvage yard, like Corvette Nutz. I have had really good service out of them. Just google "used corvette parts" or "Corvette Nutz" and you can find a place maybe close by to get a bolt.
yes after taking the others out they are exactly as you say...maybe the 2" version are installed on other configurations. My first stop will be a hardware store but I will check out corvette nutz as well ...thanks!
I think the four bolts you are talking about are relatively long, and just the last inch or two is threaded? These may be metric, not sure? If you are going to try a hardware store take another one with you and try running it into a known nut size. That will confirm metric or not threading. If you want an original replacement bolt, I would try a corvette salvage yard, like Corvette Nutz. I have had really good service out of them. Just google "used corvette parts" or "Corvette Nutz" and you can find a place maybe close by to get a bolt.
Any bolts that go into the block are non metric bolts.
I bought a used a/c bracket to replace my bracket thinking that this may be the next step to solving the issue. The bracket I have had on the car since I bought from the previous owner 10 years ago had been notched by the previous owner so that the valve cover could be easily removed. So I thought hmm maybe this bracket has just weakened to much and is causing the belt to jump.
So I put the new used bracket on and started the car to find my water pup was now leaking because the bolt holding the water pump on (the double bolt set up) was a little loose for some reason. So I went to take the new used a/c bracket off in order to access it and the a/c bracket cracked when I loosened the bolts. I then put new gaskets on both sides of the water pump, tightened up one bolt near the alternator bracket I found a little loose, tightened up all the water pump bolts, put my a/c bracket back on (the notched one that I have had on the car since purchase) and installed a gator back belt and coolant.
From there the water pump leak was fixed and the gatorback belt went on a lot tighter than the dayco belt I had one before. So I thought THIS HAS GOT TO SOLVE THE ISSUE!
I started the car up and popped the hood the belt was running fine with no sign of any movement off the pulleys while in park. I revved it up, let off,revved it back up harder, let off revved up half throttle so the motor was hoping around at all different rpms all while in park and THE BELT WAS NOT MOVING AT ALL!
Took the car for a 5-6 mile drive and got gas. At the gas station I popped the hood and the belt had moved 2 grooves into the a/c compressor. I got my belt tool out that I drive with these days and put the belt back on so it wouldn't slip off anymore and drove home about a mile.
I have no clue where to start this time....maybe I need to order another a/c bracket? Maybe that is the issue? Does the alternator have a bracket that goes behind it? Mine never had one since I had the car but I did notice it shakes a very little bit ...but then again it was always this way ever since I had the car.
Items I have replaced to date that are belt related:
alternator - new 5 years ago 4k miles
water pump - new 5 years ago - 4k miles on it - the pulley that attaches to it though is original
Harmonic balancer - new 5 years ago - 4k miles
Smog pump delete pulley - new 6 months ago - 20 miles on it
tensioner and pulley - replaced 1 years ago - maybe 500 miles on it
All other pulleys/wheels are original
Any ideas would be great! I'm stumped at this point and the winter is coming....
I would love to have this sorted out so that next season it is all set and ready to go. I'm sure it's something VERY STUPID but no idea where to start at this point.
Any ideas would be great! I'm stumped at this point and the winter is coming....
I would love to have this sorted out so that next season it is all set and ready to go. I'm sure it's something VERY STUPID but no idea where to start at this point.
Anone know if there is a washer that goes behind the tensioner before the bolt goes in? It looks like the pulley on the tensioner has belt markings towards the front of the motors vs. centered on the pulley....maybe this is causing the belt to jump when it comes up and hit the next pulley (the a/c compressor pulley)?
From there the water pump leak was fixed and the gatorback belt went on a lot tighter than the dayco belt I had one before.
Does the alternator have a bracket that goes behind it? Mine never had one since I had the car but I did notice it shakes a very little bit.
As posted in #18, that's likely to be your problem! That movement of your alternator will eventually crack the bracket, and won't hold the belt stable! Your tensioner should run smoothly. Do you have the correct length belt? There's been no mention of the belt length indicator that I would suspect is marked on the tensioner. Here's a pic of my '84 indicator, and I'm sure yours will be a little different, but I can't imagine that you don't have one!
As posted in #18, that's likely to be your problem! That movement of your alternator will eventually crack the bracket, and won't hold the belt stable! Your tensioner should run smoothly. Do you have the correct length belt? There's been no mention of the belt length indicator that I would suspect is marked on the tensioner. Here's a pic of my '84 indicator, and I'm sure yours will be a little different, but I can't imagine that you don't have one!
Yes the belt length is correct. On the indicator are the lines suppose to line up or be within the range as the photo shows?
Your belt length indicator should show the mark in the range shown in my picture.
Originally Posted by littleredcorvette88
Does the alternator have a bracket that goes behind it? Mine never had one
As post #18 said, and I believe you're in the process of installing, I thought I'd show you the bracket on the back of my alternator. Yours will probably be a little different. That's a metric bolt into the alternator, and an SAE stud/bolt for the exhaust manifold.
I have two brackets on the back of my a/c compressor.
Got the alternator brace in but not sure how this is to be installed? My headers appear to be in the way - see photo. Do I need to thread into the head and make a new location for the brace to attach to? There are 2 blank threads in the head near the valve cover you can see in the photo.
After reviewing the alternator area again my power steering pulley seems to have a little play in it as well I could push towards the front of the car and back a little bit and after taking off the plastic cap over the bearing the bearing looks pushed out. Is this normal to be pushed out that far?
Got the alternator brace in but not sure how this is to be installed? My headers appear to be in the way.
Headers! It looks like you've found the reason someone trashed your original bracket! If I were doing it, I'd make a new bracket to go to the front bolt of your #3 cylinder. Those smaller holes don't look too strong.
That flange on your p/s pump is for attaching the p/s pulley puller. It looks the same as mine. That bottom bolt of the p/s pump is difficult to get to, so I drilled a hole in my pulley, as you can see, so I can use a socket wrench on it.
I was missing my lower alternator bracket until someone here pointed it out but all my brackets were coming loose.
(you cant notice the loose brackets until you remove the belt). My belt never came off but my power steering pulley was off because of the angle of the alternator without the lower bracket.
Good Luck
I was missing my lower alternator bracket until someone here pointed it out but all my brackets were coming loose.
(you cant notice the loose brackets until you remove the belt). My belt never came off but my power steering pulley was off because of the angle of the alternator without the lower bracket.
Good Luck
Yea I'm going to have to make something it looks like. When the car is running you can definitely notice a little shake on the alternator in the location of where the brace should be.
Headers! It looks like you've found the reason someone trashed your original bracket! If I were doing it, I'd make a new bracket to go to the front bolt of your #3 cylinder. Those smaller holes don't look too strong.
That flange on your p/s pump is for attaching the p/s pulley puller. It looks the same as mine. That bottom bolt of the p/s pump is difficult to get to, so I drilled a hole in my pulley, as you can see, so I can use a socket wrench on it.
Does your power steering pulley have any wiggle to it front to back? Mine has very little but I'm not sure if this is normal being on the pump shaft or not?
-ordered factory metal brace to use as template
-made brace out of 1/2 conduit and installed...seems strong
-just went to run the car and looks like the alternator casing has a small crack....does this mean I need a new alternator?
- ran the car in the driveway in park revving it up and no slip but the motor shakes alot due to the motor set up so it seems that all the brackets and accessory pulleys shake along with the motor
- then had someone put the car in drive with foot on the brake
As mentioned before the tensioner and pulley have been replaced but in park and in drive at idle the tensioner seems to shake like crazy!!! Is this normal? I also took a photo showing the lines on the tensioner when the car was in drive with foot on the brake once I noticed it was shaking up and down just as much as when the car was in park. Also attached is a photo of the alternator casing.
alternator crack in casing
tensioner marking location while in drive with foot on brake
-ordered factory metal brace to use as template
-made brace out of 1/2 conduit and installed...seems strong
-just went to run the car and looks like the alternator casing has a small crack....does this mean I need a new alternator?
- ran the car in the driveway in park revving it up and no slip but the motor shakes alot due to the motor set up so it seems that all the brackets and accessory pulleys shake along with the motor
- then had someone put the car in drive with foot on the brake
As mentioned before the tensioner and pulley have been replaced but in park and in drive at idle the tensioner seems to shake like crazy!!! Is this normal? I also took a photo showing the lines on the tensioner when the car was in drive with foot on the brake once I noticed it was shaking up and down just as much as when the car was in park. Also attached is a photo of the alternator casing.
Your car may be different than mine but the belt should be even or in a little bit. Looks like the bottom pully is out as if I would not have pressed my balancer on all the way back. Good Luck
alternator crack in casing
tensioner marking location while in drive with foot on brake
belt seems way off of tensioner?
Your car may be different than mine but the belt should be even or in a little bit. Looks like the bottom pully is out as if I would not have pressed my balancer on all the way back. Good Luck
I believe what you think to be crack in the alternator is actually a casting flashing. The bolt @ the top of the alternator appears to be installed backward and it's difficult to see most everything else. The bolt being backwards if secured likely doesn't create an issue but I thought the bolt passed through the front and the threads were in the rear of the bracket.
Why do you have yours the way that you do?
The alternator bracket looks odd!
Do an eBay search for a 14087519 and that's what I'd expect on all L98 '86 - '91.
Your alternator brace I'd think would be easier and more secure if you did a standoff type affair with a longer bolt to the 3d bolt on the header. I realize it makes the brace maybe longer than you might like but likely more substantial, also I believe your brace needs attached higher on the alternator case then where you've pictured it. Very hard to tell.
There has to be others with a similar build '88 or '89. Check maybe with "WW7" he's not a very long drive away with an '89.
10-28-2017, 10:40 PM
may be metric bolts
