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Need suggestions for a new clutch and flywheel 94 LT1 6spd
So I have a 1994 with the LT1 and zf? 6spd with 53,000 and while at the local track managed to blew out the clutch causing it to slip during hard acceleration! So now I would like some suggestions on a high performance clutch and possibly swapping out the DMF for a conventional one! The car has headers and a full exhaust, k&n filter with mid America’s open intake box cover, 8mm Taylor wires, a 160° thermostat and Hoosier drag radials! Looking to add some heads and a camshaft so need the clutch to handle that! Thanks for your suggestions! I was car #210
For single-mass flywheel, you basically have to choose between heavy and light flywheels. The heavy ones help mask the rattle from the ZF6 a little better than the light one, and will be a little easier to launch from a stop on the street. The lighter FW will free up inertial horsepower, especially in the lowest gears. But it will rattle more in neutral with the clutch engaged (the ZF rattles - it's normal). Shifting from one gear to another smoothly can be easier with the lighter wheel, but launching from a stop is a little more difficult. I'm not sure which has the advantage for drag racing: I'm guessing that it's easier to launch consistently with the heavier FW, but that the ET and MPH could both be a little better with the light one when the launch goes well.
As for the pressure plate, it's difficult. Everything you can buy new is a Chinese copy of the original Valeos that were made in the US or Brazil. If you can find a NOS p/p, that's ideal, but they are scarce. New Valeos now are Chinese, so don't assume you're getting a NOS version just because of the brand name. The other challenge is finding a throwout bearing that's worth a damn. Again, the NOS bearing branded "INA" is ideal, but scarce and expensive. Again, all the new ones are made in China.
For a stock car I'd just get your stock flywheel resurfaced and get a Zoom, Hayes, Centerforce, McLeod, or Ram clutch kit. Take your pick.
BTW get some drag radials while your at it!
Thanks yea I made a few passes in the car before at 14.1-14.6 then swapped the plug wires after finding #6 was loose at the plug. I launch the car at 2700-3000 and it hooks with no wheelspin. Actually feels as though I could launch slightly harder since the revs surged a bit on initial take off. But im staying away from Chinese knock offs. Not worried about cost. Got a great mechanic that will install for next to nothing so willing to spend on the right parts!
For a stock car I'd just get your stock flywheel resurfaced and get a Zoom, Hayes, Centerforce, McLeod, or Ram clutch kit. Take your pick.
I want to get 12’s out of the car, and with what I have done and a set of Lloyd Elliot Heads and camshaft was thinking I should swap the flywheel while the trans is off anyway. If the stock one will hold the extra power then maybe I’d be just flushing unneeded money down the drain!
Why would you swap the flywheel?
Looking at your time slip what's holding you back the most is your 60' time not heads or cam.
As I was searching for new clutches on most Corvette sites they are a kit flywheel plus clutch, if there isn’t anything to gain by swapping then I probably stick with the one I have! But heads and camshaft are gonna make more power to hopefully make 12’s!
This one was prior to installing the 8 mm plug wires, open air box lid, and 160° thermostat
I want to get 12’s out of the car, and with what I have done and a set of Lloyd Elliot Heads and camshaft was thinking I should swap the flywheel while the trans is off anyway. If the stock one will hold the extra power then maybe I’d be just flushing unneeded money down the drain!
I don't think the FW has much to do with power capacity. They are all going to have the same surface area and material (steel friction surface, even for lightweight aluminum FWs). The power capacity will come mostly from the disk material, and possibly secondarily from the clamping force of the pressure plate. You might consider a SPEC Stage 2 disk for your setup's extra power, but you won't need extra clamping force on the p/p.
I don't think the FW has much to do with power capacity. They are all going to have the same surface area and material (steel friction surface, even for lightweight aluminum FWs). The power capacity will come mostly from the disk material, and possibly secondarily from the clamping force of the pressure plate. You might consider a SPEC Stage 2 disk for your setup's extra power, but you won't need extra clamping force on the p/p.
SPEC light weight billet steel flywheel with SPEC Stage 3 plus clutch;
little known fact, bronze, brass, copper faced discs coefficient of friction goes up with temperature...the hotter you get 'em, the harder they engage...not so much with other friction materials
Last edited by mtwoolford; 10-31-2017 at 12:38 AM.
If you're are more into drag racing a heavier flywheel recommended. It will have more inertia. Road racing the lighter The better because of the engine's constant acceleration and deceleration. The reduction in inertia allows engine to spin up and slow down quicker.
If you want to go off the reservation call Gray Fredricks at American Powertrain. They have a good selection and will sell parts with or without a flywheel. Unless they have fixed it the Spec clutches will spit clutch springs with hard leaves. They make a race only clutch plate with no springs but its an on/off switch and a bear on the street if that is a concern.
I have an 383 LT1 putting 420hp to the wheels in a 4,200 lb Impala and so far the clutch set I got from APT after the LTX shoot out last year is holding up to everything I have thrown at it.
If you want to go off the reservation call Gray Fredricks at American Powertrain. They have a good selection and will sell parts with or without a flywheel. Unless they have fixed it the Spec clutches will spit clutch springs with hard leaves. They make a race only clutch plate with no springs but its an on/off switch and a bear on the street if that is a concern.
If he sticks with the DM flywheel as he said he will, then it's going to use an unsprung disk anyway, right?
If you want to go off the reservation call Gray Fredricks at American Powertrain. They have a good selection and will sell parts with or without a flywheel. Unless they have fixed it the Spec clutches will spit clutch springs with hard leaves. They make a race only clutch plate with no springs but its an on/off switch and a bear on the street if that is a concern.
I have an 383 LT1 putting 420hp to the wheels in a 4,200 lb Impala and so far the clutch set I got from APT after the LTX shoot out last year is holding up to everything I have thrown at it.
I’ll give them a look, it’s not gonna be a all out drag car! I live about 5 miles from Cecil Country Dragway in Maryland. So I like to go on Fridays just for some controlled fun! Better doing it there, then out in the street. But I want it to retain some drivability on the road as well!
Is your car running right? Or are you at a higher altitude? Barely 100MPH thru the finish?
My BONE STOCK 93 LT1 would walk all over your car. With your modifications that car should be much quicker. I'm trapping 105mph with ease. Car made 246 RWHP and 304 RWTQ on a Mustang dyno.
Is your car running right? Or are you at a higher altitude? Barely 100MPH thru the finish?
My BONE STOCK 93 LT1 would walk all over your car. With your modifications that car should be much quicker. I'm trapping 105mph with ease. Car made 246 RWHP and 304 RWTQ on a Mustang dyno.
Unfortunately I noticed the clutch was slipping after the 13.6 run I made, and no we are within a few hundred feet of sea level. If you look both timeslips they are at 100mph trap, and one is 14.1 the and the next time was 13.6. So the clutch may very well have been slipping in that 13.6 run as well! But that’s great about your car, what times are you getting? But yeah thanks to all the replies with actually helpful suggestions about a clutch and flywheel swap! I’m getting a local performance shop to help me sort this out!
So I decided to go with a Hays 450 clutch kit and a solid 30lb flywheel, it’s at the shop now should
be getting it back early to mid week. Once I get her back and a few miles with it, I’ll let you know a honest opinion on the setup!
10-30-2017, 06:25 PM
Need suggestions for a new clutch and flywheel 94 LT1 6spd
