better power, more mpg
11-23-2017, 06:02 PM
#41
Race Director
And you're still in school with the inability to roll-out your awesome TransAm TORQUE modifications for ANOTHER 3 years?
Butanol won't make it's way on to the market if attempts are not made to have it replace Ethanol in blended gasoline, and after this entire post, you should understand why! [/QUOTE]
Well....If you covered congress, corruption, and government as part of your discussion, maybe we'd know. Or...how about proof ethanol DOESN'T burn cleaner...and really HARMS the environment? Or...that global warming doesn't even exist...cause bozo DJT says so.
I'm not sure your post was all THAT clear.
11-23-2017, 07:28 PM
#42
Race Director
She is a beauty!
I feel the need to share the wisdom I have gained after owning an LT1 car for ten years now and having played my games with throttle body coolant deleting, throttle body airfoil, and experimenting with how modifications effected my average city and combined mileage.
I feel the need to share the wisdom I have gained after owning an LT1 car for ten years now and having played my games with throttle body coolant deleting, throttle body airfoil, and experimenting with how modifications effected my average city and combined mileage.
Here come da wisdom!!! [QUOTE=SunFriedMyBrain97]The equation is very simple and it can not be altered, anytime you feed more air into the motor, more fuel will be burnt to produce more power! The PCM will always make the necessary adjustments.
Stunning! Simply Stunning!
Originally Posted by MrWisdomIQ97
If you are concerned about fuel economy but still long for "power", maybe what you seek is more of the thrills provided by off idle low rpm to mid-range torque production, that seat of the pants feel and instant gratification.
Originally Posted by DaArizonaDude
I am currently looking into the ZZ4 camshaft for my LT1, or really/hopefully...in 3yrs...my very first build!
Originally Posted by TheManWithAPlan
From what I have researched, the ZZ4 camshaft is almost on par with the Hot Cam with the exception that it's power is created lower in the RPM band than the Hot Cam BUT with the right modifications, your stock LT1 intake manifold, 1.7 RRs, improved heads, and long tube headers, it can match and even surpass the Hot Cam while using up less fuel in it's power production! Then, pair this with your attempts to flow more air and cooler air into the motor and you should be making some good power.
Originally Posted by DisGonnaBLOWyourMIND
For my needs and my notion of "performance", I am likely going to have my car set-up to run warm engine bay air by keeping my throttle body coolant line, continuing to use paper air filters instead of cotton-gauze higher flowing filters, and maintaining the stock intake system which will help me optimize my altered motor for fuel efficiency, which was the goal from the factory!
Last edited by GREGGPENN; 11-23-2017 at 07:29 PM. Reason: Had to rehighlight and bold Phoenix emphasis of the word wisdom -- as not to misquote him.
11-23-2017, 09:43 PM
#43
Team Owner
It is very hard to find any gas stations offering non-ethanol blend gasoline. Ethanol blended gasoline is incentivized so gas stations make more of a profit from it as opposed to selling better pure gasoline.
This website helped me to locate stations in my state that offer non-ethanol blended gasoline. I lucked out with one location at Delta Sonic and another location not too far away at a Sunoco gas station. I am paying 30 cents per gallon more than the price of regular ethanol blended gasoline and I am paying five cents more than 93 octane ethanol blended gasoline.
Honestly, for the peace-of-mind I get after experiencing my fuel pump fiasco, I am more than willing to spend that extra couple of cents per gallon.
The shop told me and they showed me. Now, there is also the possibility that maybe I purchased bad gas.
It is possible I pumped phase-separated gunky crap gasoline into my tank if it somehow got stirred up from a recent tanker fill up, but this just addresses another problem about buying ethanol blended gasoline, any stale crap at the bottom of the tanks at any gasoline station can do some serious damage to your car!
However, time plays a crucial role as well! My car was already ten years old when I bought it in 2007 and this incident happened five years after owning her. I spent the first three years storing her during the winter when I could afford it, and I did prep her with STABIL during her storage, but that doesn't mean it was fool-proof. Despite driving her every day and not allowing the fuel in my tank to sit, and fueling up with supposedly "fresh" fuel, it is still possible that a layer of stagnant fuel will remain and that fuel is what will go bad at the very bottom of your fuel tank, plus the addition of moisture accumulation from the phase-separation process. With enough time, and an inaccurate fuel gauge with stagnant ethanol-blended gasoline, you are probably filling up with less and less "fresh" fuel and it is only a matter of time before your fuel pump sucks up bad gas that has accumulated in the tank...
With regards to lower octane Bio-Butanol and higher octane Iso-Butanol, these are not fantasy fuels! The problem lies with the Ethanol subsidies. Butanol won't make it's way on to the market if attempts are not made to have it replace Ethanol in blended gasoline, and after this entire post, you should understand why! Butanol is the polar opposite of Ethanol when it comes to mixing and bonding with water, so it is right off the bat a superior fuel additive but it can also be used as a stand-alone fuel replacement for gasoline, which is why I aim to acquire it for my own personal use in the future. With a rated 102 octane, Iso-Butanol will allow me to have my LT1's compression increased by two points and this cleaner burning fuel will now help me achieve better fuel economy in that it helps keep the motor clean with extremely-minimal to no carbon deposit build-up and with the higher compression. If my modifications are done right, I could experience 2014 LT1 fuel economy, out of a second-generation iron-block LT1!
This website helped me to locate stations in my state that offer non-ethanol blended gasoline. I lucked out with one location at Delta Sonic and another location not too far away at a Sunoco gas station. I am paying 30 cents per gallon more than the price of regular ethanol blended gasoline and I am paying five cents more than 93 octane ethanol blended gasoline.
Honestly, for the peace-of-mind I get after experiencing my fuel pump fiasco, I am more than willing to spend that extra couple of cents per gallon.
The shop told me and they showed me. Now, there is also the possibility that maybe I purchased bad gas.
It is possible I pumped phase-separated gunky crap gasoline into my tank if it somehow got stirred up from a recent tanker fill up, but this just addresses another problem about buying ethanol blended gasoline, any stale crap at the bottom of the tanks at any gasoline station can do some serious damage to your car!
However, time plays a crucial role as well! My car was already ten years old when I bought it in 2007 and this incident happened five years after owning her. I spent the first three years storing her during the winter when I could afford it, and I did prep her with STABIL during her storage, but that doesn't mean it was fool-proof. Despite driving her every day and not allowing the fuel in my tank to sit, and fueling up with supposedly "fresh" fuel, it is still possible that a layer of stagnant fuel will remain and that fuel is what will go bad at the very bottom of your fuel tank, plus the addition of moisture accumulation from the phase-separation process. With enough time, and an inaccurate fuel gauge with stagnant ethanol-blended gasoline, you are probably filling up with less and less "fresh" fuel and it is only a matter of time before your fuel pump sucks up bad gas that has accumulated in the tank...
With regards to lower octane Bio-Butanol and higher octane Iso-Butanol, these are not fantasy fuels! The problem lies with the Ethanol subsidies. Butanol won't make it's way on to the market if attempts are not made to have it replace Ethanol in blended gasoline, and after this entire post, you should understand why! Butanol is the polar opposite of Ethanol when it comes to mixing and bonding with water, so it is right off the bat a superior fuel additive but it can also be used as a stand-alone fuel replacement for gasoline, which is why I aim to acquire it for my own personal use in the future. With a rated 102 octane, Iso-Butanol will allow me to have my LT1's compression increased by two points and this cleaner burning fuel will now help me achieve better fuel economy in that it helps keep the motor clean with extremely-minimal to no carbon deposit build-up and with the higher compression. If my modifications are done right, I could experience 2014 LT1 fuel economy, out of a second-generation iron-block LT1!
Depending on how much better pure gas is and the price it is offered and if it is a busy station or one out in the boonies, it is something to consider.
What fuel pump fiasco are you referring to? You have no idea where that came from or why the pump died or anything other than "I have goop in my tank and the pump is dead". Do you know how many cars are running ethanol blended fuel and how many of them have such issues?
The shop showed you a bad pump and showed you the goop. How they linked the two isn't mentioned.
Are you sure that stale gas hasn't been an issue before ethanol? At Costco, I see them OFTEN checking the pump filters by timing my fill rate and changing them regularly. Most other stations I have not. Who knows what they suck up, ethanol or not? I honestly don't.
I doubt it would matter since I run the tanks to empty in every car I have so most of the old gas would be out and fresh gas would be in. The only way to get fresher gas would be to go to a station with heavy traffic so their supply runs out and is filled up often.
It's a fantasy fuel because we don't even know if we could replace all the ethanol with what we produce and even if we do, what is the price? Right now, we can get it in a 55 gallon drum and you have to mix it. I put up a fuel tank in my front yard and my neighbors are going to have an issue with it and probably report me to someone. So where can I get it at any commercial place? Nowhere. That is why it is a fantasy fuel like me getting unleaded racing gas.
11-23-2017, 10:00 PM
#44
Team Owner
For my needs and my notion of "performance", I am likely going to have my car set-up to run warm engine bay air by keeping my throttle body coolant line, continuing to use paper air filters instead of cotton-gauze higher flowing filters, and maintaining the stock intake system which will help me optimize my altered motor for fuel efficiency,
which was the goal from the factory!
which was the goal from the factory!
As to the goal from the factory, it was to sell cars, not that Government Motors did a good job in the first place which is why Obama fired Rick Wagoner. Don't kid yourself. The factory designs cars that will make money and if you like it, why, so be it. They have bigger issues than you. Once all is considered, I guess they will see whether you like it or not.
11-24-2017, 01:59 PM
#45
What fuel pump fiasco are you referring to? You have no idea where that came from or why the pump died or anything other than "I have goop in my tank and the pump is dead". Do you know how many cars are running ethanol blended fuel and how many of them have such issues?
The shop showed you a bad pump and showed you the goop. How they linked the two isn't mentioned.
The shop showed you a bad pump and showed you the goop. How they linked the two isn't mentioned.
Are you sure that stale gas hasn't been an issue before ethanol? At Costco, I see them OFTEN checking the pump filters by timing my fill rate and changing them regularly. Most other stations I have not. Who knows what they suck up, ethanol or not? I honestly don't. I doubt it would matter since I run the tanks to empty in every car I have so most of the old gas would be out and fresh gas would be in. The only way to get fresher gas would be to go to a station with heavy traffic so their supply runs out and is filled up often.
It's a fantasy fuel because we don't even know if we could replace all the ethanol with what we produce and even if we do, what is the price? Right now, we can get it in a 55 gallon drum and you have to mix it. I put up a fuel tank in my front yard and my neighbors are going to have an issue with it and probably report me to someone. So where can I get it at any commercial place? Nowhere. That is why it is a fantasy fuel like me getting unleaded racing gas.
- WE ALREADY KNOW THAT YOU CAN REPLACE ETHANOL WITH BUTANOL. Both are made using the same process, but Butanol requires an additional step with a certain bacteria strain for fermentation.
- What, you can't accept delivery of the drum in your garage, use a rotary pump with hose to fill your car and spread the word that you are using a Bio-Fuel called Iso-Butanol from a company called GEVO?! You are fearful of your neighbors?
- Iso-Butanol is only a "fantasy fuel" because you refuse to purchase it and make up excuses for why you should not! I see cars using liquified propane gas for fuel and even some with liquified natural gas as fuel, so apparently this "fantasy fuel" is made reality by the bold willing to purchase it and consume it in their vehicles!
- In order to purchase this hard to acquire fuel, you need to look elsewhere and seek it out as opposed to expecting the convenience of visiting a gas station! How do you think those people who use liquid propane and liquid natural gas get their fuel? I suspect they visit PRAXAIR and fill their cars up there! It ain't no gas station, either!
If you really want warm engine bay air, cover up the bottom part with some sort of plastic piece to retard ventilation. Keeping the throttle body coolant line won't make squat of difference. I did remove it simply because I wanted a cleaner engine bay when I take the TB off for maintenance.
Last edited by Phoenix'97; 11-24-2017 at 02:10 PM.
11-24-2017, 03:11 PM
#46
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Most people trade up to newer cars every five or ten years, so they are not likely to experience ethanol related fuel problems, especially if they lease their cars! What I experienced was the result of the fuel tank having an accumulation of ethanol deposit that got sucked up into the fuel pump and totally shut down my fuel system. ACTUALLY, I had this happen on my first car shortly after receiving it from a used dealership. One week after owning it, it would not start on our driveway, so I had to get it towed back to the dealership who later discovered the entire fuel system was gunked up by ingested ethanol deposit. Since I still had a one month warranty, they had to clean out my fuel tank, clean out the fuel lines and injectors, and replace my fuel pump! So, if it not be a case of "bad gas" that was purchased, it is certainly a case of owning a car that has years of ethanol deposit accumulation!
The beautiful thing about my factory LS1 Camaro ram air box is that I can run an SLP cold-air duct in front of my radiator to capture some of the lower air dam air and force it up into the underside of the ram air box. THEN I can use the additional forced air power from my ram air hood to further create more air turbulence and artificial supercharging effect to ram more air into my intake system during the spring and summer months. During the fall and winter months I have to seal off the ram air nostrils in the hood and close the plastic trim over the radiator for it's air dam ducting to the radiator. I have sufficient ventilation from the hood gaps, under the engine bay, and other areas for my intake box to ingest air but mostly it is warmer engine bay air and I have noticed a marginal increase in fuel economy as well as my motor warming up a little bit faster. Also, my motor seems to run very smooth despite the noticeable power loss from ingesting engine bay air with no ram effect.
11-24-2017, 05:04 PM
#47
Le Mans Master
Seriously, Penix needs to be banned. I have sent requests to the moderators but received no response. He's shitting up multiple threads. Any useful info that would have come from these threads is buried among all the pages of crap he's spewing. Nobody wants to hear about butanol, and yet there are now half a dozen threads where the topics have been steered to nonsensical discussions about it. It was one thing when it was just in threads that he himself started, but now he's hijacking other people's threads. Enough is enough!
Last edited by MatthewMiller; 11-24-2017 at 11:15 PM.
11-24-2017, 05:16 PM
#48
Team Owner
Are you serious?! Most people trade up to newer cars every five or ten years, so they are not likely to experience ethanol related fuel problems, especially if they lease their cars!
What I experienced was the result of the fuel tank having an accumulation of ethanol deposit that got sucked up into the fuel pump and totally shut down my fuel system. ACTUALLY, I had this happen on my first car shortly after receiving it from a used dealership. One week after owning it, it would not start on our driveway, so I had to get it towed back to the dealership who later discovered the entire fuel system was gunked up by ingested ethanol deposit. Since I still had a one month warranty, they had to clean out my fuel tank, clean out the fuel lines and injectors, and replace my fuel pump! So, if it not be a case of "bad gas" that was purchased, it is certainly a case of owning a car that has years of ethanol deposit accumulation!
Wow, you are putting undue wear and tear on your fuel pump, forget ethanol deposit ingestion!
Also, my motor seems to run very smooth despite the noticeable power loss from ingesting engine bay air with no ram effect.
What I experienced was the result of the fuel tank having an accumulation of ethanol deposit that got sucked up into the fuel pump and totally shut down my fuel system. ACTUALLY, I had this happen on my first car shortly after receiving it from a used dealership. One week after owning it, it would not start on our driveway, so I had to get it towed back to the dealership who later discovered the entire fuel system was gunked up by ingested ethanol deposit. Since I still had a one month warranty, they had to clean out my fuel tank, clean out the fuel lines and injectors, and replace my fuel pump! So, if it not be a case of "bad gas" that was purchased, it is certainly a case of owning a car that has years of ethanol deposit accumulation!
Wow, you are putting undue wear and tear on your fuel pump, forget ethanol deposit ingestion!
- WE ALREADY KNOW THAT YOU CAN REPLACE ETHANOL WITH BUTANOL. Both are made using the same process, but Butanol requires an additional step with a certain bacteria strain for fermentation.
- What, you can't accept delivery of the drum in your garage, use a rotary pump with hose to fill your car and spread the word that you are using a Bio-Fuel called Iso-Butanol from a company called GEVO?! You are fearful of your neighbors?
- Iso-Butanol is only a "fantasy fuel" because you refuse to purchase it and make up excuses for why you should not! I see cars using liquified propane gas for fuel and even some with liquified natural gas as fuel, so apparently this "fantasy fuel" is made reality by the bold willing to purchase it and consume it in their vehicles!
- In order to purchase this hard to acquire fuel, you need to look elsewhere and seek it out as opposed to expecting the convenience of visiting a gas station! How do you think those people who use liquid propane and liquid natural gas get their fuel? I suspect they visit PRAXAIR and fill their cars up there! It ain't no gas station, either!
Also, my motor seems to run very smooth despite the noticeable power loss from ingesting engine bay air with no ram effect.
I have no idea if it is something from one station or 100 stations. If I were to bet, I'd say it is from one station since it overwhelmed the pump. If it is a bit here and a bit there, wouldn't it be sucked up and burned? Without knowing more, I can't say why it would be accumulation.
What wear and tear on the fuel pump? You mean the old wive's tale about "don't run your tank empty or it burns the fuel pump up"?
The part with the "but" worries me. I have no idea how much that one simple step costs, do you?
It is kinda of a hassle to have to do so there had best be some huge gains for that. I might as well make biodiesel since it costs $0.60 a gallon if that were the case. Oh wait, it doesn't take into account my time and all other sundries. As to my neighbors, we live in a neighborhood not in the middle of BFE Alaska where there is nobody near me for a hundred miles. I'd be nervous if I saw drums of fuel in a neighbor's garage since it could have an effect if things went south.
You see it as a holy cause. I do not.
Why? I can do a lot of things but why? What is the gain to me? A few hundred bucks a year of POSSIBLE wear and tear savings on my car? Not interested. If we are talking tens of thousands, sure.
Couldn't care less about the SOTP dyno. Lets see some real dyno results.
11-24-2017, 05:57 PM
#49
Melting Slicks
That is incredible. Base stock is 114500 BTU and ethanol 10% is 111836 BTU. 2664 BTU or 2.32% difference. Where is the 7.68% coming from?
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gaso...lon_equivalent
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gaso...lon_equivalent
11-24-2017, 06:40 PM
#50
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Seriously, Penix needs to be banned. I have sent requests to the moderators but received no response. He's shitting up multiple threads. Any useful info that would have come from these threads is buried among all the pages of crap he's spewing. Nobody wants to hear about butanol, and yet there are now half a dozen threads where the topics have been steered to nonsensical discussions about it. It was one thing it was just in threads that he himself started, but now he's hijacking other people's threads. Enough is enough!
Well said.
11-24-2017, 10:46 PM
#51
Team Owner
11-29-2017, 09:25 AM
#52
Why are you defending E10 gasoline? The reasons for why you lose mileage are already stated, though we have forum members crapping on factual information. Maybe these guys should be banned for spreading misinformation.
11-29-2017, 10:00 AM
#54
Team Owner
To fill up 2 cars requires me to drive 30 minutes north PAST MY HOUSE for each car and pay 40 cents more a gallon. Costco is on the way home. This other station is NOT. For me to spend 1 hour a week driving pointlessly and spending $20 more, you bet I want a good reason.
Last edited by aklim; 11-29-2017 at 10:11 AM.
11-29-2017, 10:56 AM
#55
What nobody has answered is why there is a 10% loss of mileage but a 2.32% difference in energy content.
To fill up 2 cars requires me to drive 30 minutes north PAST MY HOUSE for each car and pay 40 cents more a gallon. Costco is on the way home. This other station is NOT. For me to spend 1 hour a week driving pointlessly and spending $20 more, you bet I want a good reason.
To fill up 2 cars requires me to drive 30 minutes north PAST MY HOUSE for each car and pay 40 cents more a gallon. Costco is on the way home. This other station is NOT. For me to spend 1 hour a week driving pointlessly and spending $20 more, you bet I want a good reason.
Ethanol is hygroscopic, it will bond with any water molecules present in a gasoline tank, whether at the gas station or in your car! You can not avoid getting moisture in your car gasoline tank and it will accumulate over the years if not sucked out through the fuel line but the water accumulation is not nearly as bad as when ethanol undergoes phase separation, bonding with water molecules and settling to the bottom of the tank! This substance is gunky and it will plug up the entire fuel system with enough time and accumulation. However, even pumping "bad gasoline" from a fuel tank at a gas station can easily ruin your car.
When you factor all of this in, it is no wonder that fuel economy suffers! With 10% Ethanol blended with gasoline, you are getting diluted gasoline and a fuel that WILL reduce the fuel economy of your car over time, and this won't differentiate between newer and older vehicles, this fuel is a problem in and of itself by being hygroscopic and separating into a gunky substance.
IS MAKING A HALF-HOUR TRIP TO PURCHASE PURE-GASOLINE WORTH IT FOR YOU? Probably not, but I would regularly treat my car with fuel additive meant to prevent ethanol degradation problems. So, adding this regular maintenance to your car, is Costco still the better choice?
Last edited by Phoenix'97; 11-29-2017 at 10:58 AM.
11-29-2017, 01:23 PM
#56
Team Owner
You can not avoid getting moisture in your car gasoline tank and it will accumulate over the years if not sucked out through the fuel line but the water accumulation is not nearly as bad as when ethanol undergoes phase separation, bonding with water molecules and settling to the bottom of the tank! This substance is gunky and it will plug up the entire fuel system with enough time and accumulation. However, even pumping "bad gasoline" from a fuel tank at a gas station can easily ruin your car.
When you factor all of this in, it is no wonder that fuel economy suffers! With 10% Ethanol blended with gasoline, you are getting diluted gasoline and a fuel that WILL reduce the fuel economy of your car over time, and this won't differentiate between newer and older vehicles, this fuel is a problem in and of itself by being hygroscopic and separating into a gunky substance.
IS MAKING A HALF-HOUR TRIP TO PURCHASE PURE-GASOLINE WORTH IT FOR YOU? Probably not, but I would regularly treat my car with fuel additive meant to prevent ethanol degradation problems. So, adding this regular maintenance to your car, is Costco still the better choice?
When you factor all of this in, it is no wonder that fuel economy suffers! With 10% Ethanol blended with gasoline, you are getting diluted gasoline and a fuel that WILL reduce the fuel economy of your car over time, and this won't differentiate between newer and older vehicles, this fuel is a problem in and of itself by being hygroscopic and separating into a gunky substance.
IS MAKING A HALF-HOUR TRIP TO PURCHASE PURE-GASOLINE WORTH IT FOR YOU? Probably not, but I would regularly treat my car with fuel additive meant to prevent ethanol degradation problems. So, adding this regular maintenance to your car, is Costco still the better choice?
Assuming there is that much phase separation, perhaps. Years ago, I tried dumping gas dry into the tank. Didn't change a thing that the gauge reported. I had pure gas outside my house and used it often. No real difference. There was more difference, on average, between summer and winter.
If I had fuel problems and had to treat it, I would certainly look into getting E0. OTOH, since I don't have any quantifiable reasons other than "I prefer E0" and thus don't bother with snake oils or additives, it becomes an expense for little to no gain.
11-29-2017, 01:41 PM
#57
Drifting
Member Since: Oct 2006
Location: Stafford Connecticut
Posts: 1,328
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
13 Posts
I guess you guys are to young or don"t remember why ethanol was added to our gasoline.Before they started using ethanol to gasoline as an originate to help gas burn more cleanly They were using MBTE.They found out the hard way that MBTE was eating through The gas station holding tanks.Thus the switch to ethanol.Ethanol is bad for older cars like ours because it eats up the rubber parts in our Vettes.Newer cars have different parts That ethanol does not effect.I just bought a 2010 Grand caravan.I was surprised to see a new trouble light on my dash that warns me when there is water in my gas tank.
11-29-2017, 02:53 PM
#58
Safety Car
Going from a MGB to a Corvette is a radical change!!!
I would suggest you "learn" the original car and then start modifying it. The first thing I would do after buying any year Corvette is to buy the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your particular year of Corvette. They may not be cheap but they are critical to keeping the car on the road safely by yourself. You also might want to invest in a good quality code reader and a decent quality Multi-meter.
I love my Corvettes, I have a 1968 L-71 convertible set up with lots of HP and then I have a 1988 Coupe with everything original except for the exhaust system. Both of these cars handle very well but either can be a real handful if you push it a bit too hard.
It takes time to "learn a Corvette" properly, safely and economically.
This is extremely true in newbies to Corvettes, Do Not Underestimate the Corvette, it can lead to all kinds of trouble. My '68 has more horsepower than I need and can get you into a very dangerous situation very quickly especially in any kind of wet or sandy road situation. The 1988 Coupe with it's L98 has enough power to break any speed limit on this continent....
This is why I have two Corvettes. The C3 is inexpensive to modify and makes lots of power. The C4 Corvette is a very refined Corvette compared to my '68. Having a basic/crude version of ABS (at least on my '88) and other safety features it is a nice cruising car. I can take my C4 out and drive cross country if I wanted to, my '68 is for when you need an adrenaline rush and it is not raining.
We see a lot of folks who buy a beautiful car like yours and before they even own it for a month they are tearing it apart trying to squeeze more power from it. My '88 is an "alternate" car in my driveway. I use it on long rides to make it more fun. With the stock engine I have broken 30 mpg on the highway with the AC and CD player wailing.
Whenever I acquire a "new to me" car I flush the brake fluid out and check the pads and rotors, replace the fuel filter, air filters, anti-freeze and change the oil. This way you know that the maintenance is done for sure. This is one place I really love my C4, anytime I have to work on that engine I am so grateful for that huge hood.
Unlike the MG world you will not have to fix it weekly to keep it on the road. I speak from experience having had an MG Midget and a Triumph Spitfire as well as one of my earlier bikes, a BSA 441 Victor.
I truly understand why they call LUCAS "The Prince of Darkness"... On C4 Corvettes there are a lot of electrical items but fortunately they are of better quality than the Lucas brand.
The first time you remove a C4 wheel you will know that your world has changed. Compared to the wheel on a MG these things are huge and very heavy to boot.
I wish you the best experience possible with your new to you Corvette!
I would suggest you "learn" the original car and then start modifying it. The first thing I would do after buying any year Corvette is to buy the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your particular year of Corvette. They may not be cheap but they are critical to keeping the car on the road safely by yourself. You also might want to invest in a good quality code reader and a decent quality Multi-meter.
I love my Corvettes, I have a 1968 L-71 convertible set up with lots of HP and then I have a 1988 Coupe with everything original except for the exhaust system. Both of these cars handle very well but either can be a real handful if you push it a bit too hard.
It takes time to "learn a Corvette" properly, safely and economically.
This is extremely true in newbies to Corvettes, Do Not Underestimate the Corvette, it can lead to all kinds of trouble. My '68 has more horsepower than I need and can get you into a very dangerous situation very quickly especially in any kind of wet or sandy road situation. The 1988 Coupe with it's L98 has enough power to break any speed limit on this continent....
This is why I have two Corvettes. The C3 is inexpensive to modify and makes lots of power. The C4 Corvette is a very refined Corvette compared to my '68. Having a basic/crude version of ABS (at least on my '88) and other safety features it is a nice cruising car. I can take my C4 out and drive cross country if I wanted to, my '68 is for when you need an adrenaline rush and it is not raining.
We see a lot of folks who buy a beautiful car like yours and before they even own it for a month they are tearing it apart trying to squeeze more power from it. My '88 is an "alternate" car in my driveway. I use it on long rides to make it more fun. With the stock engine I have broken 30 mpg on the highway with the AC and CD player wailing.
Whenever I acquire a "new to me" car I flush the brake fluid out and check the pads and rotors, replace the fuel filter, air filters, anti-freeze and change the oil. This way you know that the maintenance is done for sure. This is one place I really love my C4, anytime I have to work on that engine I am so grateful for that huge hood.
Unlike the MG world you will not have to fix it weekly to keep it on the road. I speak from experience having had an MG Midget and a Triumph Spitfire as well as one of my earlier bikes, a BSA 441 Victor.
I truly understand why they call LUCAS "The Prince of Darkness"... On C4 Corvettes there are a lot of electrical items but fortunately they are of better quality than the Lucas brand.
The first time you remove a C4 wheel you will know that your world has changed. Compared to the wheel on a MG these things are huge and very heavy to boot.
I wish you the best experience possible with your new to you Corvette!
11-30-2017, 08:16 PM
#59
Instructor
Thread Starter
Going from a MGB to a Corvette is a radical change!!!
I would suggest you "learn" the original car and then start modifying it. The first thing I would do after buying any year Corvette is to buy the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your particular year of Corvette. They may not be cheap but they are critical to keeping the car on the road safely by yourself. You also might want to invest in a good quality code reader and a decent quality Multi-meter.
I love my Corvettes, I have a 1968 L-71 convertible set up with lots of HP and then I have a 1988 Coupe with everything original except for the exhaust system. Both of these cars handle very well but either can be a real handful if you push it a bit too hard.
It takes time to "learn a Corvette" properly, safely and economically.
This is extremely true in newbies to Corvettes, Do Not Underestimate the Corvette, it can lead to all kinds of trouble. My '68 has more horsepower than I need and can get you into a very dangerous situation very quickly especially in any kind of wet or sandy road situation. The 1988 Coupe with it's L98 has enough power to break any speed limit on this continent....
This is why I have two Corvettes. The C3 is inexpensive to modify and makes lots of power. The C4 Corvette is a very refined Corvette compared to my '68. Having a basic/crude version of ABS (at least on my '88) and other safety features it is a nice cruising car. I can take my C4 out and drive cross country if I wanted to, my '68 is for when you need an adrenaline rush and it is not raining.
We see a lot of folks who buy a beautiful car like yours and before they even own it for a month they are tearing it apart trying to squeeze more power from it. My '88 is an "alternate" car in my driveway. I use it on long rides to make it more fun. With the stock engine I have broken 30 mpg on the highway with the AC and CD player wailing.
Whenever I acquire a "new to me" car I flush the brake fluid out and check the pads and rotors, replace the fuel filter, air filters, anti-freeze and change the oil. This way you know that the maintenance is done for sure. This is one place I really love my C4, anytime I have to work on that engine I am so grateful for that huge hood.
Unlike the MG world you will not have to fix it weekly to keep it on the road. I speak from experience having had an MG Midget and a Triumph Spitfire as well as one of my earlier bikes, a BSA 441 Victor.
I truly understand why they call LUCAS "The Prince of Darkness"... On C4 Corvettes there are a lot of electrical items but fortunately they are of better quality than the Lucas brand.
The first time you remove a C4 wheel you will know that your world has changed. Compared to the wheel on a MG these things are huge and very heavy to boot.
I wish you the best experience possible with your new to you Corvette!
I would suggest you "learn" the original car and then start modifying it. The first thing I would do after buying any year Corvette is to buy the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your particular year of Corvette. They may not be cheap but they are critical to keeping the car on the road safely by yourself. You also might want to invest in a good quality code reader and a decent quality Multi-meter.
I love my Corvettes, I have a 1968 L-71 convertible set up with lots of HP and then I have a 1988 Coupe with everything original except for the exhaust system. Both of these cars handle very well but either can be a real handful if you push it a bit too hard.
It takes time to "learn a Corvette" properly, safely and economically.
This is extremely true in newbies to Corvettes, Do Not Underestimate the Corvette, it can lead to all kinds of trouble. My '68 has more horsepower than I need and can get you into a very dangerous situation very quickly especially in any kind of wet or sandy road situation. The 1988 Coupe with it's L98 has enough power to break any speed limit on this continent....
This is why I have two Corvettes. The C3 is inexpensive to modify and makes lots of power. The C4 Corvette is a very refined Corvette compared to my '68. Having a basic/crude version of ABS (at least on my '88) and other safety features it is a nice cruising car. I can take my C4 out and drive cross country if I wanted to, my '68 is for when you need an adrenaline rush and it is not raining.
We see a lot of folks who buy a beautiful car like yours and before they even own it for a month they are tearing it apart trying to squeeze more power from it. My '88 is an "alternate" car in my driveway. I use it on long rides to make it more fun. With the stock engine I have broken 30 mpg on the highway with the AC and CD player wailing.
Whenever I acquire a "new to me" car I flush the brake fluid out and check the pads and rotors, replace the fuel filter, air filters, anti-freeze and change the oil. This way you know that the maintenance is done for sure. This is one place I really love my C4, anytime I have to work on that engine I am so grateful for that huge hood.
Unlike the MG world you will not have to fix it weekly to keep it on the road. I speak from experience having had an MG Midget and a Triumph Spitfire as well as one of my earlier bikes, a BSA 441 Victor.
I truly understand why they call LUCAS "The Prince of Darkness"... On C4 Corvettes there are a lot of electrical items but fortunately they are of better quality than the Lucas brand.
The first time you remove a C4 wheel you will know that your world has changed. Compared to the wheel on a MG these things are huge and very heavy to boot.
I wish you the best experience possible with your new to you Corvette!
11-30-2017, 11:36 PM
#60
Team Owner
You also might want to invest in a good quality code reader and a decent quality Multi-meter.
The 1988 Coupe with it's L98 has enough power to break any speed limit on this continent....
The C4 Corvette is a very refined Corvette compared to my '68.
We see a lot of folks who buy a beautiful car like yours and before they even own it for a month they are tearing it apart trying to squeeze more power from it. My '88 is an "alternate" car in my driveway. I use it on long rides to make it more fun. With the stock engine I have broken 30 mpg on the highway with the AC and CD player wailing.
Whenever I acquire a "new to me" car I flush the brake fluid out and check the pads and rotors, replace the fuel filter, air filters, anti-freeze and change the oil.
On C4 Corvettes there are a lot of electrical items but fortunately they are of better quality than the Lucas brand.
The 1988 Coupe with it's L98 has enough power to break any speed limit on this continent....
The C4 Corvette is a very refined Corvette compared to my '68.
We see a lot of folks who buy a beautiful car like yours and before they even own it for a month they are tearing it apart trying to squeeze more power from it. My '88 is an "alternate" car in my driveway. I use it on long rides to make it more fun. With the stock engine I have broken 30 mpg on the highway with the AC and CD player wailing.
Whenever I acquire a "new to me" car I flush the brake fluid out and check the pads and rotors, replace the fuel filter, air filters, anti-freeze and change the oil.
On C4 Corvettes there are a lot of electrical items but fortunately they are of better quality than the Lucas brand.
So does pretty much any car I have driven.
I'm sure the newer ones are even more refined.
I went the other way. Bought a C4 and dumped my 383 into it. I think it isn't just a corvette but if the person is used to the power. When my 91 F-body was wrecked because someone drove into it, I transplanted the engine into the C4. It's not a mythical creature just because it is a Corvette.
I agree with that. If it is liquid, it goes. I would also change whatever is worn out.
You better hope so since many of them are obsoleted.
