Thermostat question
#41
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
#42
Melting Slicks
I get it. You think that my coolant going 14* over the T-stat cracking point is proof that the stat has no control or influence on operating temps. For the seconds that it was above about 190, you're right. For that brief moment, in 104* ambient temps, with the AC on, the coolant temp was outside of the realm of T-stat control.
Conversely, I feel that this particular example is evidence that supports my point; that the cooling system should be able to drive coolant temps "down against the stat" most all of the time. I feel that this example supports that b/c even in 104* ambient temps, with the AC on, the temp was mostly down in the range where the stat is regulating flow and thus op temp. My point is that the conditions were borderline "extreme".
So we obviously interpret the data differently, but I can tell you from experience that with a healthy cooling system a lower stat will typically result in lower op temps. 104*F ambient temps isn't typical, IMO.
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Conversely, I feel that this particular example is evidence that supports my point; that the cooling system should be able to drive coolant temps "down against the stat" most all of the time. I feel that this example supports that b/c even in 104* ambient temps, with the AC on, the temp was mostly down in the range where the stat is regulating flow and thus op temp. My point is that the conditions were borderline "extreme".
So we obviously interpret the data differently, but I can tell you from experience that with a healthy cooling system a lower stat will typically result in lower op temps. 104*F ambient temps isn't typical, IMO.
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temperature. If you put a 180 in, you are telling the cooling system, "keep things at a minimum of 180". If you put in a 170, you are saying "keep things at a minimum 170". If the cooling system(radiator) has the ability, it will do so - no argument. The key word is ability. My contention is that the thermostat has no ability whatsoever to stop the temps from rising above the set point. That task falls strickly on the ability of the cooling system to get rid of the heat and bring it down to the minimum, the rating of the thermostat. You made the point about the 160 in your racecar and I previously agreed with you. Did not doubt you for a minute. But I do not think because you put the 160 in, that was the controlling factor. In your racecar case, it went to 160 because the cooling system(again, radiator) had the ABILITY to take it down that low. If you put a 140 in(don't know if they exist) would the temps fall to that? Maybe, maybe not. Depends on the capacity of the radiator. If it doesn't have the capacity, the 140 thermostat is not going to stop it from climbing higher than that.
#43
Le Mans Master
With the upgraded cooling system I'm running, when I did put a 160 degree stat in my car, it would run at 172 degrees when fully warmed up, this was way to cool.. When I installed the 180 degree stat my car now runs right around 180 degrees, which is fine for the street...If I remove the stat completely and run the car, it again runs at or around 172 degrees, the same as with a 160 degree stat..Evidently my cars actual running temperture for the cooling system I have is 172 degrees with an ambient air temperture of around 75 degrees ...All the temps quoted above are at cruising speed..I have just about everything on my 89 cooling system upgraded to give the best cooing available ,actually it cools better now then I need it to, and I had to use a higher temp stat to raise the temperture up....WW
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Last edited by WW7; 01-04-2018 at 12:40 PM.
#44
Racer
I did everything in this article with the exception of the adjustable FPR and the K&N filter. A 160' stat was part of it. Did it make a difference? Hell, I couldn't tell ya.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/vem...ngine-buildup/
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/vem...ngine-buildup/
#45
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
I totally agree with you. We are saying the same thing, just not reading each other. My point is this. I have never said that thermostats do not influence temperature. Nowhere. What I HAVE said is that they control the minimum
temperature. If you put a 180 in, you are telling the cooling system, "keep things at a minimum of 180". If you put in a 170, you are saying "keep things at a minimum 170". If the cooling system(radiator) has the ability, it will do so - no argument. The key word is ability. My contention is that the thermostat has no ability whatsoever to stop the temps from rising above the set point. That task falls strickly on the ability of the cooling system to get rid of the heat and bring it down to the minimum, the rating of the thermostat. You made the point about the 160 in your racecar and I previously agreed with you. Did not doubt you for a minute. But I do not think because you put the 160 in, that was the controlling factor. In your racecar case, it went to 160 because the cooling system(again, radiator) had the ABILITY to take it down that low. If you put a 140 in(don't know if they exist) would the temps fall to that? Maybe, maybe not. Depends on the capacity of the radiator. If it doesn't have the capacity, the 140 thermostat is not going to stop it from climbing higher than that.
temperature. If you put a 180 in, you are telling the cooling system, "keep things at a minimum of 180". If you put in a 170, you are saying "keep things at a minimum 170". If the cooling system(radiator) has the ability, it will do so - no argument. The key word is ability. My contention is that the thermostat has no ability whatsoever to stop the temps from rising above the set point. That task falls strickly on the ability of the cooling system to get rid of the heat and bring it down to the minimum, the rating of the thermostat. You made the point about the 160 in your racecar and I previously agreed with you. Did not doubt you for a minute. But I do not think because you put the 160 in, that was the controlling factor. In your racecar case, it went to 160 because the cooling system(again, radiator) had the ABILITY to take it down that low. If you put a 140 in(don't know if they exist) would the temps fall to that? Maybe, maybe not. Depends on the capacity of the radiator. If it doesn't have the capacity, the 140 thermostat is not going to stop it from climbing higher than that.
#47
Melting Slicks
OK; alt-248= °
OR; alt-0176 = °
there are a but load of symbols accessible from our keypad. this is one example..
https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/s...2ad78c5154a505
OR; alt-0176 = °
there are a but load of symbols accessible from our keypad. this is one example..
https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/s...2ad78c5154a505
Last edited by desertmike1; 01-04-2018 at 11:03 PM.
#48
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Cool. Thanks! °
#49
OK; alt-248= °
OR; alt-0176 = °
there are a but load of symbols accessible from our keypad. this is one example..
https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/s...2ad78c5154a505
OR; alt-0176 = °
there are a but load of symbols accessible from our keypad. this is one example..
https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/s...2ad78c5154a505
#50
Team Owner
Android using SwiftKey has ° so I can still use °F or °C
#51
Melting Slicks
Lets put this into perspective. If you had an electric water pump that didn't mind operating at variable speed settings, you would ideally run without a thermostat for minimal water resistance to flow. You would run it just fast enough to constantly maintain the ideal temperature. And maybe only very very slowly at initial startup, just enough to prevent hot spots from forming.
#52
Team Owner
Lets put this into perspective. If you had an electric water pump that didn't mind operating at variable speed settings, you would ideally run without a thermostat for minimal water resistance to flow. You would run it just fast enough to constantly maintain the ideal temperature. And maybe only very very slowly at initial startup, just enough to prevent hot spots from forming.
#54
Melting Slicks
Way to take it the wrong way. The perspective was to show what a thermostat does and why it wouldn't be necessary to use in that situation.
The rate of the water pump moving water depends on water pump rpm, not the engine's needs for cooling. So it spins whether the engine needs to be cooled or not. That is why there is a thermostat. If you had an electric pump you wouldn't need to spin the pump when the engine didn't need much cooling, if you could cycle it like with pulseable electronics or with a variable resistance electric motor.
It was supposed to be an example to help you learn what a thermostat does (for those who dont 'get it' yet)
It wasn't meant to be a positive bump for electric water pumps lol. Electric water pumps are the farthest thing from desirable, I would avoid one at all costs if possible.
Also whats this about electric fans? Car since 1989 have electric fans. Every sequential EFI and even most of the ancient batch fire units will control an electric fan. The OEM computer I just tuned for a chevrolet 5.3L 2002 model has two outputs for two electric fans. Its not something I would normally even consider "dismiss able".
The rate of the water pump moving water depends on water pump rpm, not the engine's needs for cooling. So it spins whether the engine needs to be cooled or not. That is why there is a thermostat. If you had an electric pump you wouldn't need to spin the pump when the engine didn't need much cooling, if you could cycle it like with pulseable electronics or with a variable resistance electric motor.
It was supposed to be an example to help you learn what a thermostat does (for those who dont 'get it' yet)
It wasn't meant to be a positive bump for electric water pumps lol. Electric water pumps are the farthest thing from desirable, I would avoid one at all costs if possible.
Also whats this about electric fans? Car since 1989 have electric fans. Every sequential EFI and even most of the ancient batch fire units will control an electric fan. The OEM computer I just tuned for a chevrolet 5.3L 2002 model has two outputs for two electric fans. Its not something I would normally even consider "dismiss able".
Last edited by Kingtal0n; 01-06-2018 at 02:45 AM.
#55
Melting Slicks
Way to take it the wrong way. The perspective was to show what a thermostat does and why it wouldn't be necessary to use in that situation.
The rate of the water pump moving water depends on water pump rpm, not the engine's needs for cooling. So it spins whether the engine needs to be cooled or not. That is why there is a thermostat. If you had an electric pump you wouldn't need to spin the pump when the engine didn't need much cooling, if you could cycle it like with pulseable electronics or with a variable resistance electric motor.
It was supposed to be an example to help you learn what a thermostat does (for those who dont 'get it' yet)
It wasn't meant to be a positive bump for electric water pumps lol. Electric water pumps are the farthest thing from desirable, I would avoid one at all costs if possible.
Also whats this about electric fans? Car since 1989 have electric fans. Every sequential EFI and even most of the ancient batch fire units will control an electric fan. The OEM computer I just tuned for a chevrolet 5.3L 2002 model has two outputs for two electric fans. Its not something I would normally even consider "dismiss able".
The rate of the water pump moving water depends on water pump rpm, not the engine's needs for cooling. So it spins whether the engine needs to be cooled or not. That is why there is a thermostat. If you had an electric pump you wouldn't need to spin the pump when the engine didn't need much cooling, if you could cycle it like with pulseable electronics or with a variable resistance electric motor.
It was supposed to be an example to help you learn what a thermostat does (for those who dont 'get it' yet)
It wasn't meant to be a positive bump for electric water pumps lol. Electric water pumps are the farthest thing from desirable, I would avoid one at all costs if possible.
Also whats this about electric fans? Car since 1989 have electric fans. Every sequential EFI and even most of the ancient batch fire units will control an electric fan. The OEM computer I just tuned for a chevrolet 5.3L 2002 model has two outputs for two electric fans. Its not something I would normally even consider "dismiss able".
I agree on electric water pumps being a bad idea that shouldn't of happened. I avoid them like the plague.
#56
Melting Slicks
If anyone wants to see how the thermostat actually works (which Im sure most know already but some may not) you can see how it works here :
http://crowz.narmir.com/vehicles/198...and-replacing/
http://crowz.narmir.com/vehicles/198...and-replacing/
#57
Melting Slicks
As for my 2 cents on it all you need is enough heat to keep the motor in closed loop.
Also cool enough to avoid dieseling, spark knock and melted heads.
Anything in between is the goldilocks zone.
Also cool enough to avoid dieseling, spark knock and melted heads.
Anything in between is the goldilocks zone.
#58
Team Owner
Way to take it the wrong way. The perspective was to show what a thermostat does and why it wouldn't be necessary to use in that situation.
The rate of the water pump moving water depends on water pump rpm, not the engine's needs for cooling. So it spins whether the engine needs to be cooled or not. That is why there is a thermostat. If you had an electric pump you wouldn't need to spin the pump when the engine didn't need much cooling, if you could cycle it like with pulseable electronics or with a variable resistance electric motor.
It was supposed to be an example to help you learn what a thermostat does (for those who dont 'get it' yet)
It wasn't meant to be a positive bump for electric water pumps lol. Electric water pumps are the farthest thing from desirable, I would avoid one at all costs if possible.
Also whats this about electric fans? Car since 1989 have electric fans. Every sequential EFI and even most of the ancient batch fire units will control an electric fan. The OEM computer I just tuned for a chevrolet 5.3L 2002 model has two outputs for two electric fans. Its not something I would normally even consider "dismiss able".
The rate of the water pump moving water depends on water pump rpm, not the engine's needs for cooling. So it spins whether the engine needs to be cooled or not. That is why there is a thermostat. If you had an electric pump you wouldn't need to spin the pump when the engine didn't need much cooling, if you could cycle it like with pulseable electronics or with a variable resistance electric motor.
It was supposed to be an example to help you learn what a thermostat does (for those who dont 'get it' yet)
It wasn't meant to be a positive bump for electric water pumps lol. Electric water pumps are the farthest thing from desirable, I would avoid one at all costs if possible.
Also whats this about electric fans? Car since 1989 have electric fans. Every sequential EFI and even most of the ancient batch fire units will control an electric fan. The OEM computer I just tuned for a chevrolet 5.3L 2002 model has two outputs for two electric fans. Its not something I would normally even consider "dismiss able".
#60
Melting Slicks
It just worth mentioning that often there is a smaller, "hidden" electric fan. nissan 240sx for example uses mechanical fan. But the computer has a twin-output for low and high speed electric fan hidden down below where you can't see it on the condenser. Those outputs could be used for a "larger electric fan" if you configured the ECU for it.
Another thing to consider is, sometimes the ECU has a fan output even when the electrical fan isn't present on that model. So you still may have the capability to activate an electric fan using the factory computer, even when you don't originally see an electrical fan present. I would check the service manual for all models and look for ECU pinouts.
Last edited by Kingtal0n; 01-06-2018 at 05:04 PM.