Rear track widths, later C4 has a wider rear?
#21
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The factory studs are the least of my worries right now. As long as I have the D36 back there, I don't plan on running anything other than the cheapest street tire I can find until I find a D44. Then I will likely go to a 1/2" stud. 5/8" probably aren't necessary since the car weighs 2200 lbs and I have full control of launching torque to keep the drivetrain components together. I'm also not sure if 5/8" or 14mm are going to fit these wheels, and I need to leave me options opened for street wheels/tires.
So for now, I'll likely run some adapters.
#22
I overthought NOTHING - I only mentioned options and actually the larger wheel stud creates many more options for using the maybe .9 'pass-through'. The 1" adapter style will certainly make it a 'roller' and you could fine tune/tweak the requirements needed for a pass-through. .9 is a stretch for sure but if using 14mm or 5/8 maybe not - it won't pass any sanctioning body tech inspections but you haven't mentioned any either.
Show us a snapshot of your creation.
#23
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
To the dismay of many purists here, its a vette kart.
-Quad turbo 4.8 LS swap. Cam is a 226/232 110 LSA, ~.580 lift. Boost peaks up around 22 lbs, I don't plan on pushing it much further.
-TH400 trans, manual VB. Paddle shifted via Arduino nano controlling a servo that actuates the shift cable. Using a dual VR conditioner circuit to read wheel speeds from front and rear ABS sensors. Wheel speeds keep me from shifting Into P,R,N while moving, or downshifting above certain speeds. I also use front/rear speed differential for traction control, it will control the duty cycle on my boost solenoid by the % the rears are spinning faster than the fronts, and do table switching in my microsquirt for timing reduction. I can also do boost by speed, time, RPM, gear, and G-force (find the G limit of tires, set target G just below it). All boost/traction control is closed loop. I'm using an A/C condenser for a trans cooler.
-Car weighs a massive 2100 lbs. Right now its getting caged, road race wing, new suspension. I'll be switching to an aluminum 5.3 to save some weight. I'm hoping that without me in it it still weighs no more than 2300 lbs when I'm done.
-Quad turbo 4.8 LS swap. Cam is a 226/232 110 LSA, ~.580 lift. Boost peaks up around 22 lbs, I don't plan on pushing it much further.
-TH400 trans, manual VB. Paddle shifted via Arduino nano controlling a servo that actuates the shift cable. Using a dual VR conditioner circuit to read wheel speeds from front and rear ABS sensors. Wheel speeds keep me from shifting Into P,R,N while moving, or downshifting above certain speeds. I also use front/rear speed differential for traction control, it will control the duty cycle on my boost solenoid by the % the rears are spinning faster than the fronts, and do table switching in my microsquirt for timing reduction. I can also do boost by speed, time, RPM, gear, and G-force (find the G limit of tires, set target G just below it). All boost/traction control is closed loop. I'm using an A/C condenser for a trans cooler.
-Car weighs a massive 2100 lbs. Right now its getting caged, road race wing, new suspension. I'll be switching to an aluminum 5.3 to save some weight. I'm hoping that without me in it it still weighs no more than 2300 lbs when I'm done.
Last edited by JoeNova; 01-03-2018 at 10:17 AM.
#24
Le Mans Master
OP - I see things way different than you've mentioned. You mention being only concerned with suspension/side member interference so assuming that the 11" GS wheel with a 7.9 back-spacing (50mm offset) generally has no interference 11 + 1 = 12/2 = 6 + 1.9 (rounded down).
If your 12 wheel is stock offset 59mm then the wheel would be
12 + 1 = 13/2 = 6.5 + 2.3 (rounded down) with a 8.8 back-spacing calculation.
Since you're only interested in "off the suspension/side member" you need something +/- .9 inch.
If your 12 wheel is stock offset 59mm then the wheel would be
12 + 1 = 13/2 = 6.5 + 2.3 (rounded down) with a 8.8 back-spacing calculation.
Since you're only interested in "off the suspension/side member" you need something +/- .9 inch.
#26
Le Mans Master
Hah! I missed the entire second page of comments where that was mentioned. My bad. Well in that case, then you'd be okay in back. The only issue that additional track width may cause is quicker wheel bearing wear. But maybe zero offset is actually best for that - not sure.
#27
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Hah! I missed the entire second page of comments where that was mentioned. My bad. Well in that case, then you'd be okay in back. The only issue that additional track width may cause is quicker wheel bearing wear. But maybe zero offset is actually best for that - not sure.
I'm not sure about that either. I have no issue putting in 1/2" wheel studs and using a 1" spacer as long as I don't have any rubbing issues.
I borrowed some 2" wheel adapters and they fit, but the wheel might be out just a touch too far. I really don't like the idea of adapters in heavy cornering, but the C6 Z06 wheels are just for the street.
#28
Le Mans Master
I'm not sure about that either. I have no issue putting in 1/2" wheel studs and using a 1" spacer as long as I don't have any rubbing issues.
I borrowed some 2" wheel adapters and they fit, but the wheel might be out just a touch too far. I really don't like the idea of adapters in heavy cornering, but the C6 Z06 wheels are just for the street.
I borrowed some 2" wheel adapters and they fit, but the wheel might be out just a touch too far. I really don't like the idea of adapters in heavy cornering, but the C6 Z06 wheels are just for the street.