C4 How to bypass VATS/PassKey System at ECM ? (not resistor or relay)
#1
C4 How to bypass VATS/PassKey System at ECM ? (not resistor or relay)
Hey Guys,
I want to bypass the VATS, not just jump the resistor,
i will also bypass the VATS starter interrupt relay, and i know how to that.
But,
I also want to bypass the injection cutoff at the ECM, (i do not want a new PROM chip).
This should be possible by bypassing wires from the VATS 'black box' control module and/or car's ECM, i prefer at ECM so VATS module is out of equation.
I am thinking there should be a wire from the VATS module that interrupts and then completes the 'enable' circuit for the injector.
What i need to know is how-to, as in which wires, to do what, cut, splice, jump to what.
Thank you
Car is 1989 L98
I want to bypass the VATS, not just jump the resistor,
i will also bypass the VATS starter interrupt relay, and i know how to that.
But,
I also want to bypass the injection cutoff at the ECM, (i do not want a new PROM chip).
This should be possible by bypassing wires from the VATS 'black box' control module and/or car's ECM, i prefer at ECM so VATS module is out of equation.
I am thinking there should be a wire from the VATS module that interrupts and then completes the 'enable' circuit for the injector.
What i need to know is how-to, as in which wires, to do what, cut, splice, jump to what.
Thank you
Car is 1989 L98
Last edited by 1982Stingray; 01-04-2018 at 05:19 PM. Reason: Car is 1989 L98
#2
There are only two ways to get rid of the passkey module.
Have the ecm prom reprogrammed or a hz modulator.
The ecm expects to see a 30-50hz signal to enable the injectors.
http://www.bakerelectronix.com/products_vats/
Have the ecm prom reprogrammed or a hz modulator.
The ecm expects to see a 30-50hz signal to enable the injectors.
http://www.bakerelectronix.com/products_vats/
#3
can't seem to upload pics here
so VATS module pinout is
A1 = ign sw input
A2 = crank fuel signal
A3 = starter enable relay
A4 = security lamp
A5 = blank
A6 = key resistor (hi)
A7 thru A8 = blank
B1 = ground
B2 = key resistor (lo)
B3 thru B7 = blank
B8 = batt power
so VATS module pinout is
A1 = ign sw input
A2 = crank fuel signal
A3 = starter enable relay
A4 = security lamp
A5 = blank
A6 = key resistor (hi)
A7 thru A8 = blank
B1 = ground
B2 = key resistor (lo)
B3 thru B7 = blank
B8 = batt power
#5
There are only two ways to get rid of the passkey module.
Have the ecm prom reprogrammed or a hz modulator.
The ecm expects to see a 30-50hz signal to enable the injectors.
http://www.bakerelectronix.com/products_vats/
Have the ecm prom reprogrammed or a hz modulator.
The ecm expects to see a 30-50hz signal to enable the injectors.
http://www.bakerelectronix.com/products_vats/
I admit I am not, so why asking for those with such actual expertise.
i find it hard to believe if the VATS module craps out that it cannot be jumped or bypassed to get running.
#8
Instructor
[QUOTE=1982Stingray;1596311719]Hey Guys,
I want to bypass the VATS, not just jump the resistor,
i will also bypass the VATS starter interrupt relay, and i know how to that.
But,
I also want to bypass the injection cutoff at the ECM, (i do not want a new PROM chip).
This should be possible by bypassing wires from the VATS 'black box' control module and/or car's ECM, i prefer at ECM so VATS module is out of equation.
I am thinking there should be a wire from the VATS module that interrupts and then completes the 'enable' circuit for the injector.
What i need to know is how-to, as in which wires, to do what, cut, splice, jump to what.
The vats module controls 2 things the vats start relay and sending data to ecm to disable fuel. Tuner can take care of second. you have to disable both no way around it. jp
I want to bypass the VATS, not just jump the resistor,
i will also bypass the VATS starter interrupt relay, and i know how to that.
But,
I also want to bypass the injection cutoff at the ECM, (i do not want a new PROM chip).
This should be possible by bypassing wires from the VATS 'black box' control module and/or car's ECM, i prefer at ECM so VATS module is out of equation.
I am thinking there should be a wire from the VATS module that interrupts and then completes the 'enable' circuit for the injector.
What i need to know is how-to, as in which wires, to do what, cut, splice, jump to what.
The vats module controls 2 things the vats start relay and sending data to ecm to disable fuel. Tuner can take care of second. you have to disable both no way around it. jp
Last edited by milsurpman; 01-05-2018 at 08:27 AM.
The following users liked this post:
1982Stingray (01-05-2018)
#10
The passkey module sends the hz signal to the ecm. With a vom if the passkey is working you will see 2.5-5v on this line. The passkey module also grounds the enable relay so cranking can occur. You can either ground the enable relay or splice the larger gauge wires together usually green and yellow.
The following users liked this post:
1982Stingray (01-05-2018)
#11
The passkey module sends the hz signal to the ecm. With a vom if the passkey is working you will see 2.5-5v on this line. The passkey module also grounds the enable relay so cranking can occur. You can either ground the enable relay or splice the larger gauge wires together usually green and yellow.
So on the TDM, can it be jumped to always provide the HZ signal?
and is that part of the TDM failure prone?
Thanks.
#12
if accessory power is changed to constant 12v and the appropriate resistor is installed for the key reader wiring the hz signal would be constant. This would also cause a small parasitic draw though.
#13
Sorry I misread your post. As long as you have a combined amp draw of the ecm and hz modulator is half a amp or less you will be ok. Any more than that the battery loose it’s charge faster.
#14
#16
OP - unless you've a failed system I don't believe I'd be concerned with anything other than understanding how it functions. From what you've mentioned it's hard to say that you actually do.
If you don't dick with it when it comes time to actually sort it it's generally much easier. To do other than the accepted 'known to function' I'd say foolish as he!!.
Do I? For the cars I've had or have currently I'd say yes and NONE are currently bypassed. I bypassed the '90 for diagnostics with another CCM but returned it back to enabled.
If you don't dick with it when it comes time to actually sort it it's generally much easier. To do other than the accepted 'known to function' I'd say foolish as he!!.
Do I? For the cars I've had or have currently I'd say yes and NONE are currently bypassed. I bypassed the '90 for diagnostics with another CCM but returned it back to enabled.
Last edited by WVZR-1; 01-05-2018 at 01:58 PM.
#17
#18
OP - unless you've a failed system I don't believe I'd be concerned with anything other than understanding how it functions. From what you've mentioned it's hard to say that you actually do.
If you don't dick with it when it comes time to actually sort it it's generally much easier. To do other than the accepted 'known to function' I'd say foolish as he!!.
Do I? For the cars I've had or have currently I'd say yes and NONE are currently bypassed. I bypassed the '90 for diagnostics with another CCM but returned it back to enabled.
If you don't dick with it when it comes time to actually sort it it's generally much easier. To do other than the accepted 'known to function' I'd say foolish as he!!.
Do I? For the cars I've had or have currently I'd say yes and NONE are currently bypassed. I bypassed the '90 for diagnostics with another CCM but returned it back to enabled.
I just wanted to plan out the way i will bypass the TDM to keep injection function from ECM without eliminating VATS altogether by changing PROM chip.
I will set up something i can switch on/off, wired under the dash but so it is accessible, so if stuck a bad place will be quick & easy to bypass VATS and go..
The reason is simple. so i do not get stuck anywhere with a failed VATS and they do commonly fail, i've seen hundreds bad, but been lucky so far on the 89 with only the key cylinder failing at 36k miles.
With planned bypass options wired in i will not have to pull dash apart again. I'm currently doing upgrades to viper alarm & audio system, so dash is already apart, and removed/cleaned seats & carpets, and will put better insulation, i replaced the heater core too as preventive maintenance, so hopefully i won't need repeat such labor anytime soon.
The Only thing "foolish" are those who do not try to learn, do not step outside their comfort zone because they are Afraid to try to do things for themselves.., nothing ventured = nothing gained.
#19