zf6 s6-40 stuck in gear
#1
zf6 s6-40 stuck in gear
howdy...
I've got a black box zf mated to a built ls in a drift car.
The synchros to second have always been bad, but with the torque I"ve always just started off the line in second. Recently third has started grinding lots.......
and now it is stuck in third.....
at the track I was able to give some force to get what I thought was out of gear, but it dropped down to second.
It's now stuck as can be and shifter is limp noodle.
Before I tear it out I'd like to know how bad this might be....
Thanks
I've got a black box zf mated to a built ls in a drift car.
The synchros to second have always been bad, but with the torque I"ve always just started off the line in second. Recently third has started grinding lots.......
and now it is stuck in third.....
at the track I was able to give some force to get what I thought was out of gear, but it dropped down to second.
It's now stuck as can be and shifter is limp noodle.
Before I tear it out I'd like to know how bad this might be....
Thanks
#2
Buy a used trans for 900, buy new if you can find one for 2,000 or rebuild for 3,000.
#3
Melting Slicks
I would fix the "limp noodle" and go from there. Sounds like the linkage came off. If the linkage is OK and you still have limp noodle, you may be screwed and probably need a rebuild. But do the linkage first and post back here.
#4
I guess calling it "limp noodle" didn't clarify that much.
Linkage is all in tact. The shifter has always had a bit of play, but there seems to be more where it's stuck. The gear selector rod on the trans is stuck however, so I can't push it forward to neutral from second where it now apparently lives.
If there are any lines of a decently cheap zf6 I'd entertain as I already have a custom driveshaft, hydro throw, and a speedplay bell housing to ls block.
Honestly though, I've never really liked how the trans shifted, so I just torque monstered it and always left it in a higher gear than needed.
and of course money is an issue...... so I'm quite inclined to go cheapest.
t56 would need new driveshaft but uses same clutch setup.
t10 would need bell housing/ not sure of spline of clutch disc/ and driveshaft. same with muncie, a833, ma5, my6
also considered adapter plate to 370z vq trans or zf bimmer trans as well since both of those are so cheap, but the whole adaptation process is pricey.
Linkage is all in tact. The shifter has always had a bit of play, but there seems to be more where it's stuck. The gear selector rod on the trans is stuck however, so I can't push it forward to neutral from second where it now apparently lives.
If there are any lines of a decently cheap zf6 I'd entertain as I already have a custom driveshaft, hydro throw, and a speedplay bell housing to ls block.
Honestly though, I've never really liked how the trans shifted, so I just torque monstered it and always left it in a higher gear than needed.
and of course money is an issue...... so I'm quite inclined to go cheapest.
t56 would need new driveshaft but uses same clutch setup.
t10 would need bell housing/ not sure of spline of clutch disc/ and driveshaft. same with muncie, a833, ma5, my6
also considered adapter plate to 370z vq trans or zf bimmer trans as well since both of those are so cheap, but the whole adaptation process is pricey.
#5
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '05
you wont be rebuilding that trans cheap, perhaps look for another used one you can beat up rins and repeat. Maybe ZF doc would be interested in yours for a core.
Guesss youll never know til you crack it open but that alone can run 1-200 just to find out.
Guesss youll never know til you crack it open but that alone can run 1-200 just to find out.
#6
OP - where are you located? I'd think this is certainly a 'location matters' issue!
#7
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