Mez

Today I noticed coolant leaking from the end tank. It appears to have a crack upper right side. I seem to recall end tanks can be replaced. I do not want to buy a new radiator if I can avoid it. If so, what is the cost?

VetteNoob

http://www.radiators.com

Inexpensive OEM replacements. That's where I got my replacement radiator from.

Toms86vette

The same thing happened to me. I repaired the cracked tank and blew the other tank 3 days later. To repair one tank cost me $87.00 and to buy an OEM with a life time warranty was $109.00. I would suggest that you replace with an OEM radiator. :D

Mez

Where did you buy it?

silver & red CE

I had the same thing happen to my 96, I purchased a new GM replacement from Dal for ~$210 shipped to my house. I also replaced all the hoses and changed the clamps to marine stainless, added ~$100 to the job.

The hardest part of the job is removing the upper cowl. Those six 7mm screws suck. I had to pull the AIR pump to get at the three on the driver's side.

Eric

VQT88Vette

Tom86,

Where can I buy OEM radiator with life time warannty for $109.00?
Got mine last year from Jeff Kopp for ~$140 shipped to my house.

Thanks,

Mez

Ever notice that repairs come in bunches?

At the same time, my 2 year old Delco battery started leaking around the positive post, so I need a new battery and touch up the frame where the acid had bubbled the paint.

The past 2 weekends, I have been working on my daily driver, a 1994 Thunderbird SC, replacing the motor mounts and alternator.

But working on the Vette is somewhat relaxing because I take my time, and do it right.

Toms86vette

I purchased my radiator from http://www.speedyradiator.com. I checked the price again and it has gone up to $131. Works good and temperature stays cooler. It fit a little tighter than the radiator that came with the vette, but after working with it I was able to get the cowling back down and bolted. While I had the cowling off, I modified it so I could take it off without having to remove any of the radiator hoses or lines. :D :cheers:

FSTRNU

It broke for a reason..Time for a BeCool Aluminium:jester

Mez

Well, nobody seems to think repairing it is a cost effective option since new ones are priced under $200.

For 1996, Speedyradiator and many of the on-line dealers show the price at $190.95+shipping. They all appear to be the GM model # 52481572.

Other on-line dealers describe their radiators as "OEM Replacement" and are priced about $40 less. One dealer says they are "OEM equivalent Replacement" which they say meet or beats OEM specs in fit and quality and have a lifetime warranty. I have been generally unsatisfied by "equivalent" products. Frequently, the don't fit or look exactly right or have questionable quality. Does anyone have any experience with the following dealers:

OEM
------------------------------------------------------------
911radiators................$190.95 + shipping
Speedyradiator............$190.95 + shipping
Radiator Barn...............$215.33 including shipping
(+ many others dealers priced similarly)

OEM Replacement
--------------------------------------------------------------
Radiator+Plus......................$157. 00 + shipping
Radiator Express.................$150.00 + shipping
Autozone.............................$18 6.60 + tax brand GDI (?)




[Modified by Mez, 1:44 PM 10/13/2002]

VQT88Vette

I bought mine from Jeff Kopp, GM parts manager. Cost ~$140 shipped to my house last year. My car is a 1988 heavy duty radiator. I don't know what your is. From your sig. I assume you got an LT4. It should be the same or at least in price.

The cost to fix the radiator would be arount $100 anyway.

Mez

I assume Jeff Kopp is with Superior Chevrolet.

I sent them a message this morning for a quote. In my research, the 1990 - 1996 radiators are different and slightly more expensive.


[Modified by Mez, 9:25 AM 10/14/2002]

VQT88Vette

Hope it not much more than my 88 since you wanted OEM, Jeff maybe the guy for you.

Mez

Jeff quoted $210+shipping.

PTz-92-LT1

When you replace the radiator and get to those six 7mm screws that attach the upper radiator support to the lower support you'll want to change things around a little. When re-assembling take the clips off the one support, turn them around and put them on the other support. This will allow you to put the screws in from in front of the radiator under the bumper. It will save you a lit of time and aggrevation, particularily when you have to do the job again.



[Modified by PTz-92-LT1, 11:04 AM 10/14/2002]

VQT88Vette

Time to take the radiator out and check at your local radiator shop to see how much they charge. If if is reasonable fix it. If I was back in southern CA, Los Angeles area, I would know where to check my radiator. Around here, North East, they charge too much money so it is cost effective to buy new one:). TX is a good place to shop for cheap labor too:) (Nothing wrong with that)

Mez

I ordered a new one from http://www.radiators.com for $157+sales tax+shipping for a total of about $175 including Life time guarantee.

I should get it tomorrow, check it out, and if I don't like it, ship it back.

Scoggin-Dickey quoted $253+tax+shipping.

As for the shroud assembly, thanks for the advice regarding 7mm screws. After removing the LT4 heads for porting and doing the rear bearing, alternator, and motor mounts on my Thunderbird SC, this has to be easier.




[Modified by Mez, 12:11 PM 10/14/2002]

Mez

Got the radiator this morning via UPS. Quick delivery. Manufactured by Visteon.

Looks good but has the internal automatic transmission cooler. The factory LT4 radiators do not have it. The lower outlet is almost blocked by the trans cooler. Is this right?

I called http://www.radiators.com and they said its a universal replacement and they only sell this one. I confirmed this with the manufacturer.

By the way, the original radiator has a tag with the part number 52460411. GMpartsdirect has part number 52473260 but it won't pull up the part number or price. Why is this so difficult?

I also have a theory why the original radiator end tank failed. The original radiator plastic end tank cracked in front of the small return line from the rear of the heads. All the LT1/LT4 have a coolant return line from the rear of the heads, thru the throttle body, then into the radiator top right to vent steam that is trapped there in the reverse flow cooling system. The radiator manufacturer says steam can cause premature plastic end tank failure. My theory is steam (or extremely hot coolant) normally condenses and cools going thru the throttle body before reaching the radiator. But since I by-passed the throttle body, the return line goes directly into the radiator. The steam or super heated coolant shoots directly at the plastic end tank of the radiator, causing premature failure.

So, I am planning on installing a smaller cooller in the return line to lower the temperature before it reaches the radiator.




[Modified by Mez, 2:36 PM 10/15/2002]

braveheart3158

Doin mine now. Unable to get to those 7mm bolts. What tools did you guys use. Ratchet to short and deep. Open end to short.

JrRifleCoach

not easy but doable