Jniels916

I am very familiar with the Egr system. I know Nox is from high tempatures in the combustion chamber. I want some opinions on how to lower Nox reads. i will attach smog print out.

Ive had no check engine light for 4 months recently code 32 comes on immediately after start up. will go away once warm, sometimes it stays on until i turn the car off. SES will remain off until bone cold again.

my car will not run at 6 degrees... it just pingings like a mad house, sounds like a diesel, i retard it sooo much to the point where i can drive it without detrimental damage.(around 0 degrees)

so ive been assuming my egr system is causing this crazy spark knock or ping.

i tested egr with vacuum pump, it would not hold ANY pressure. couldnt even get the thing to open.

I bought a new Ac Delco EGR from Summit...

Installed. Car Off. i test it with a vacuum pump, it works great. i can hear it open and closing. it holds pressure up to 25. everything checks out. I start my car to test if it will stumble, and the new egr will not open, will not hold even 5, i pump as fast as i can, and i cannot get it to open even a little... this makes no sense, i am not changing anything but starting the car... maybe the vibrations from the running motor is cause this brand new part that is faulty to loose all functionality?

so valve still doesnt work

i test my solenoid by keeping all vacuum lines and connectors hooked up except the single vacuum line going to valve, i start the car and rev the **** out of it in every way and hold my finger over the hole on the solenoid.no suction ever...

so solenoid doesnt work

i hook up volt meter to solenoid to check.
car off- 0 volts
car 2nd click(accessory mode) car not running- constant 13volts
car on/running- constant 13-14 volts
car/ revving in all rpms all ways - constant 13-14 volts
when i disconnect

connector to solenoid, it shuts off power to it and starts sucking,

i would imagine when i rev the motor, i would see fluctuation on the voltmeter, telling the solenoid when to open/ close, but just as constant as idling

so wiring to EGR is not working correctly

its sad that the more i test the more i find not working.

i will call summit and get another EGR valve
please. any EGR corvette chevy block experts.

I HAVE NO TAGS I NEED MY NOX LEVELS DOWN JUST TO PASS SMOG!

nox

GREGGPENN

Sounds like there's a problem with your timing that needs to be resolved. Loose damper ring (slipping the timing mark), bad plug wiring, incorrect distributor placement, etc... It should NOT ping at 6-deg BTDC or even 2-3 degrees higher. Figure out that problem.

Here's a primer on EGR even if you think you know it...
http://www.aces.edu/~parmega/efi/egr.txt

Assuming your electrical lines are plugged to the vacuum solenoid, you should know it doesn't open when cold. (At least that's my impression....though I'm not going to reread/relearn tonight). When you turn the car on, I'd think the electrical circuit would close the solenoid making it impossible to pull it open. That's what's supposed to happen. You weren't clear on understanding this. (Hence my link above)

Though I doubt you will need it (if timing repairs are successful), there was a recent thread (about E15 fuel safety) in the ZR1 forum where the guy used water injection to trick lower readings.

Cruisinfanatic

Why does report say tampered?

billschroeder5842

I agree on this one. From looking at your report, you engine is "cleaner" this higher the RPM... your advance is working.

I'd retime your engine using an old trick that my "Shop Daddy Mentor" (Swede Anderson, Ingleside Illinois) taught me. Time the chevy engine through your vacuum gauge. Twist the distributor to the highest and steady reading you can get at idle.

As GregPenn stated, this is the first place I'd look as if your car wont hold timing, messing around with the rest of the systems will not make a hill of beans. The reason your SES goes off after a while is directly related to inefficient low RPMs.

Time to time it.

1984Z51auto

This really sounds like the harmonic damper has failed (slipped ring on hub) as previous posts say. The older they get, the more likely the elastomer is to break and slip.

John A. Marker

You need to talk to the tech that inspected the car. He failed you on the visual inspection. So right now even if you got the NOX to pass, he would still fail you. You need to find out what he saw that failed and also get that corrected.

Got to love California SMOG!