1985 C4 stalls after increasing RPM from Idle
#41
Instructor
Thread Starter
Yes right. But I think it might of been part of my orginal problem. I will do the WOT problem. Thanks
#42
Instructor
Thread Starter
Did Pressure testing results below on a cold engine:
Normal start
Key on = 49psi than decreases to zero with in 10 sec (no pinch)
Start Eng = 39psi - rev eng psi went to 49 psi (eng started right up)maintained 39psi at idle
Feed line test
Key on then pinched feed line 39psi
Key off went to zero within 10sec (pinched feed)
Release pinch on feed line
Started eng 39psi with eng running
RTN testing
Key on pinch rtn 60psi
Key off 60psi
Start eng 70psi
Key off eng stopped
Released pinch psi to zero.
Checked oil no gas detected
Does the above readings point to a bad FPR?
Normal start
Key on = 49psi than decreases to zero with in 10 sec (no pinch)
Start Eng = 39psi - rev eng psi went to 49 psi (eng started right up)maintained 39psi at idle
Feed line test
Key on then pinched feed line 39psi
Key off went to zero within 10sec (pinched feed)
Release pinch on feed line
Started eng 39psi with eng running
RTN testing
Key on pinch rtn 60psi
Key off 60psi
Start eng 70psi
Key off eng stopped
Released pinch psi to zero.
Checked oil no gas detected
Does the above readings point to a bad FPR?
Last edited by agillings; 02-17-2018 at 11:57 AM.
#43
Team Owner
Did Pressure testing results below on a cold engine:
Normal start
Key on = 49psi than decreases to zero with in 10 sec (no pinch)
Start Eng = 39psi - rev eng psi went to 49 psi (eng started right up)maintained 39psi at idle
Feed line test
Key on then pinched feed line 39psi
Key off went to zero within 10sec (pinched feed)
Release pinch on feed line
Started eng 39psi with eng running
RTN testing
Key on pinch rtn 60psi
Key off 60psi
Start eng 70psi
Key off eng stopped
Released pinch psi to zero.
Checked oil no gas detected
Does the above readings point to a bad FPR?
Normal start
Key on = 49psi than decreases to zero with in 10 sec (no pinch)
Start Eng = 39psi - rev eng psi went to 49 psi (eng started right up)maintained 39psi at idle
Feed line test
Key on then pinched feed line 39psi
Key off went to zero within 10sec (pinched feed)
Release pinch on feed line
Started eng 39psi with eng running
RTN testing
Key on pinch rtn 60psi
Key off 60psi
Start eng 70psi
Key off eng stopped
Released pinch psi to zero.
Checked oil no gas detected
Does the above readings point to a bad FPR?
This makes me think the leak is between the pressure line coming out of the pump and return line crimp. Could be the injectors or FPR spring is weak. Can't be leaking out so it has to be leaking into the engine or back into the tank
#44
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks for quick response. There is no gas in the oil so I think the amount of pressure going to zero under the tests must be related to the Tank assy. The engine seems it is not running rich.
So correct me if I am wrong . I should pull the tank unit and check connections.
I have a new FPR if connections are good I should change the FPR Diaphram?
The eng starts right up after the testing. If fuel injectors were leaking, would it be hard to start?
So correct me if I am wrong . I should pull the tank unit and check connections.
I have a new FPR if connections are good I should change the FPR Diaphram?
The eng starts right up after the testing. If fuel injectors were leaking, would it be hard to start?
Last edited by agillings; 02-17-2018 at 01:04 PM.
#45
Team Owner
Thanks for quick response. There is no gas in the oil so I think the amount of pressure going to zero under the tests must be related to the Tank assy. The engine seems it is not running rich.
So correct me if I am wrong . I should pull the tank unit and check connections.
I have a new FPR if connections are good I should change the FPR Diaphram?
The eng starts right up after the testing. If fuel injectors were leaking, would it be hard to start?
So correct me if I am wrong . I should pull the tank unit and check connections.
I have a new FPR if connections are good I should change the FPR Diaphram?
The eng starts right up after the testing. If fuel injectors were leaking, would it be hard to start?
No. After the regulator, it is free flowing into the tank so it is between the crimps that you are leaking. You said you changed injectors. Which ones? All of them and recently? Cold start injector wasn't changed. Was the fuel pressure regulator changed as well?
#46
Instructor
Thread Starter
How did you check the engine for rich running? You'd have to datalog it. I had injectors on the driver side short out so the O2 sensor thought it was lean, dumped a bunch of fuel on the other side. The manifold was glowing on one side, cold on the other. Datalog found an incredible amount of pulse width. Also you have a catalytic converter or 3 so that can compensate for it.
No. After the regulator, it is free flowing into the tank so it is between the crimps that you are leaking. You said you changed injectors. Which ones? All of them and recently? Cold start injector wasn't changed. Was the fuel pressure regulator changed as well?
No. After the regulator, it is free flowing into the tank so it is between the crimps that you are leaking. You said you changed injectors. Which ones? All of them and recently? Cold start injector wasn't changed. Was the fuel pressure regulator changed as well?
The injectors are about a 2 years old. All new Bosch (orange color).Cold Start injector was not changed.
Fuel Pressure Reg was rebuilt at the same time
So you are saying that I have a leak internal to the tank or the FPR or the injectors leaking
#47
Team Owner
OK. Feel free to correct anything I said. I may have spaced out. Blame it on the booze. So let's work this out. It goes from the pump to the filter to the injectors to the regulator and back to the tank. The regulator holds pressure until it gets past a certain pressure and bleeds it off to the tank till it gets the correct pressure. Bleed process repeats.
You did a feed line test by crimping it after a second of prime to achieve full pressure so there would be no way the fuel can flow back. Any rapid loss of pressure is from that crimp on. That means it achieves the correct pressure and you do not allow it to flow back. So only way it goes is from that point to the regulator to the tank.
Can you repeat the return line test and not start the car so we can see if it holds pressure? You started the car so the motor bleeds off the pressure and muddies the waters, so to speak.
We know that from the feed line crimp to the return line, it doesn't hold pressure. If the return line test holds pressure, probably the regulator.
You did a feed line test by crimping it after a second of prime to achieve full pressure so there would be no way the fuel can flow back. Any rapid loss of pressure is from that crimp on. That means it achieves the correct pressure and you do not allow it to flow back. So only way it goes is from that point to the regulator to the tank.
Can you repeat the return line test and not start the car so we can see if it holds pressure? You started the car so the motor bleeds off the pressure and muddies the waters, so to speak.
We know that from the feed line crimp to the return line, it doesn't hold pressure. If the return line test holds pressure, probably the regulator.
#48
Instructor
Thread Starter
OK. Feel free to correct anything I said. I may have spaced out. Blame it on the booze. So let's work this out. It goes from the pump to the filter to the injectors to the regulator and back to the tank. The regulator holds pressure until it gets past a certain pressure and bleeds it off to the tank till it gets the correct pressure. Bleed process repeats.
You did a feed line test by crimping it after a second of prime to achieve full pressure so there would be no way the fuel can flow back. Any rapid loss of pressure is from that crimp on. That means it achieves the correct pressure and you do not allow it to flow back. So only way it goes is from that point to the regulator to the tank.
Can you repeat the return line test and not start the car so we can see if it holds pressure? You started the car so the motor bleeds off the pressure and muddies the waters, so to speak.
We know that from the feed line crimp to the return line, it doesn't hold pressure. If the return line test holds pressure, probably the regulator.
You did a feed line test by crimping it after a second of prime to achieve full pressure so there would be no way the fuel can flow back. Any rapid loss of pressure is from that crimp on. That means it achieves the correct pressure and you do not allow it to flow back. So only way it goes is from that point to the regulator to the tank.
Can you repeat the return line test and not start the car so we can see if it holds pressure? You started the car so the motor bleeds off the pressure and muddies the waters, so to speak.
We know that from the feed line crimp to the return line, it doesn't hold pressure. If the return line test holds pressure, probably the regulator.
#49
Instructor
Thread Starter
Key on/eng off no pinch reading 40psi. When it reached 40 psi went to 0 psi.
Key on/eng off Pinched RTN Line reading 40psi. When it reached 40 psi went to 0 psi.
So it looks like injectors or cold start injector leaking according to the Maintenance Manual flow chart
Last edited by agillings; 02-18-2018 at 09:39 AM. Reason: add
#50
Team Owner
Redone RTN Pressure test results below:
Key on/eng off no pinch reading 40psi. When it reached 40 psi went to 0 psi.
Key on/eng off Pinched RTN Line reading 40psi. When it reached 40 psi went to 0 psi.
So it looks like injectors or cold start injector leaking according to the Maintenance Manual flow chart
Key on/eng off no pinch reading 40psi. When it reached 40 psi went to 0 psi.
Key on/eng off Pinched RTN Line reading 40psi. When it reached 40 psi went to 0 psi.
So it looks like injectors or cold start injector leaking according to the Maintenance Manual flow chart
#51
Instructor
Thread Starter
Looking like it. Just for the sake of it, try this. Crimp off the return line, pressurize it and then crimp off the feed line. If you do this ,it should hold pressure since the system is under pressure and it cannot return to the tank via the feed or return line. If it bleeds down, it will to the injectors or the cold start injector
I am leaning more towards a leaking Cold Start injector. I just got back from a test ride. The following occurred:
- Eng started right up after all testing 2 to 3 cranks
- Idled around at 20 miles per hour FP =39 psi
- Went on highway 40 mph =FP at 39
- WOT about 70 mph = FP=49. stablized at 39psi when reached 70mph. I will do the additional test in a few min. Be right back
#52
Team Owner
I am leaning more towards a leaking Cold Start injector. I just got back from a test ride. The following occurred:
- Eng started right up after all testing 2 to 3 cranks
- Idled around at 20 miles per hour FP =39 psi
- Went on highway 40 mph =FP at 39
- WOT about 70 mph = FP=49. stablized at 39psi when reached 70mph. I will do the additional test in a few min. Be right back
#53
Your PUMP is fine.
Your Regulator is fine (the dynamic test told us this, it is regulating fine at different speeds)
your Injectors are not fine.
you isolated them.
For the injectors, its either some/all are gummed up and staying open when they should close, OR they are shorted internally meaning they are electrically trying to stay open, OR a combonation of them both.
Now some people suggest doing the "ohm" test to see if the electrical components in the injectors are shorted.
problem with that, is, even if electrically they might not be fried (which means they need to be replaced) they could just as easily be gummed up and the mechanical pintle in the injector is staying open.
So, my guess is that ^ is why guys like Aklim harp on just replace them all anyway. Which i wholeheartedly agree with.
Its an easy job, pill the plenum off, no problem.
You might want to order an extra set of plenum gaskets.
cheers.
Your Regulator is fine (the dynamic test told us this, it is regulating fine at different speeds)
your Injectors are not fine.
you isolated them.
For the injectors, its either some/all are gummed up and staying open when they should close, OR they are shorted internally meaning they are electrically trying to stay open, OR a combonation of them both.
Now some people suggest doing the "ohm" test to see if the electrical components in the injectors are shorted.
problem with that, is, even if electrically they might not be fried (which means they need to be replaced) they could just as easily be gummed up and the mechanical pintle in the injector is staying open.
So, my guess is that ^ is why guys like Aklim harp on just replace them all anyway. Which i wholeheartedly agree with.
Its an easy job, pill the plenum off, no problem.
You might want to order an extra set of plenum gaskets.
cheers.
Last edited by VikingTrad3r; 02-18-2018 at 12:07 PM.
#54
Team Owner
I don't know if this is right but from what I heard, nobody sells it so you have to get used. I'd send all 9 for cleaning testing. Jon probably has a few good cold start injectors lying around if this one is FUBAR. I'm sure he has the gaskets on hand
#55
Instructor
Thread Starter
I am leaning more towards a leaking Cold Start injector. I just got back from a test ride. The following occurred:
- Eng started right up after all testing 2 to 3 cranks
- Idled around at 20 miles per hour FP =39 psi
- Went on highway 40 mph =FP at 39
- WOT about 70 mph = FP=49. stablized at 39psi when reached 70mph. I will do the additional test in a few min. Be right back
- Ok tested, RTN Crimped and Feed crimped after Pressure reached 39psi.
- Result: PSI gauge went to 10psi and after 2 min then to zero.
- Earlier when I to the C4 for a drive it ran great, 600 to 650 Rpm pressure steady at 39. Floored it, eng smooth, no misses, no hesitation pushed me back in my seat
#56
Instructor
Thread Starter
FIC is were I purchased the injectors. Yes the plan is to take Plemmn off and test injectors. Or just buy new ones
#57
jonnys got some excellent videos on display on his website showing you the spray patterns of his different offerings. You want the one that mists the fuel the most! I just ordered a set off of him and in my case for my 86 it was the Bosch three.
#58
Instructor
Thread Starter
Your PUMP is fine.
Your Regulator is fine (the dynamic test told us this, it is regulating fine at different speeds)
your Injectors are not fine.
you isolated them.
For the injectors, its either some/all are gummed up and staying open when they should close, OR they are shorted internally meaning they are electrically trying to stay open, OR a combonation of them both.
Now some people suggest doing the "ohm" test to see if the electrical components in the injectors are shorted.
problem with that, is, even if electrically they might not be fried (which means they need to be replaced) they could just as easily be gummed up and the mechanical pintle in the injector is staying open.
So, my guess is that ^ is why guys like Aklim harp on just replace them all anyway. Which i wholeheartedly agree with.
Its an easy job, pill the plenum off, no problem.
You might want to order an extra set of plenum gaskets.
cheers.
Your Regulator is fine (the dynamic test told us this, it is regulating fine at different speeds)
your Injectors are not fine.
you isolated them.
For the injectors, its either some/all are gummed up and staying open when they should close, OR they are shorted internally meaning they are electrically trying to stay open, OR a combonation of them both.
Now some people suggest doing the "ohm" test to see if the electrical components in the injectors are shorted.
problem with that, is, even if electrically they might not be fried (which means they need to be replaced) they could just as easily be gummed up and the mechanical pintle in the injector is staying open.
So, my guess is that ^ is why guys like Aklim harp on just replace them all anyway. Which i wholeheartedly agree with.
Its an easy job, pill the plenum off, no problem.
You might want to order an extra set of plenum gaskets.
cheers.
plan
#59
Team Owner
- Ok tested, RTN Crimped and Feed crimped after Pressure reached 39psi.
- Result: PSI gauge went to 10psi and after 2 min then to zero.
- Earlier when I to the C4 for a drive it ran great, 600 to 650 Rpm pressure steady at 39. Floored it, eng smooth, no misses, no hesitation pushed me back in my seat
https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/collections/gm-car-rebuilt-injectors/products/24-lb-design-3-injector-set
https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/collections/injector-restoration-service/products/cold-start-injector-service-1
Check with Jon about which one you need He is honest so he will get you the right sized ones and have a look at the cold start injector and see how best to proceed with the order .
#60
Instructor
Thread Starter