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R-D Racing Camber brace, long term question

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Old 02-17-2018, 07:47 AM
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krackenvette
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Default R-D Racing Camber brace, long term question

I have had mine since 2006. I went for a drive and the drivers side forward bolt closer to radiator came loose. Cant remember the torque for that bolt, refresh if you can help.
But, I need to re-torque the bolt, with loctite. Recommendations, red or blue or green?
Anyone have original instructions too?
Old 02-17-2018, 09:59 AM
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drcook
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What year car ? Per the instructions it is per factory specs. See the attachment.

Blue loctite and it you have enough threads, get another nut and double nut it. I double nut a lot of bolts that I don't want to come loose. Doesn't have to be a high grade or torqued on by King Kong, just good and snugged up.

I don't use any thread locker that you would have to use heat to loosen up.

http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/th...threadlockers/

From my '96 FSM

Upper Control Arm Shaft to Drivetrain and Front Suspension Frame Nuts,.... 50 N.m (37 lb. ft.)
You are welcome. Today was my turn to start paying back the help the people on this forum have given me.
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Last edited by drcook; 02-17-2018 at 10:08 AM.
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Old 02-17-2018, 11:18 AM
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Thanks again, interesting no torque recommendations or loctite. Its a heavy bar, and its in its position via friction..
Again, thanks
Old 02-17-2018, 12:48 PM
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Look at point/bullet item 6. It says to tighten to the recommended values for your year car.
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Old 02-17-2018, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by drcook
Look at point/bullet item 6. It says to tighten to the recommended values for your year car.
Approximately 37ft lbs according to my FSM.
Point I am making is, you are putting another piece of material loaded on that bolt nut assembly. I would think another torque value, or loctite would be warranted.
Old 02-17-2018, 01:34 PM
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I use blue loctite on a lot of things. Because you can remove it with hand tools. I used it on the suspension of our travel trailer when I enhanced it. I use it on screws when I restore old shotguns so the critical ones don't come loose. For firearms it is sold under the name "Guntite".

I will double check mine the next time I am out working in the garage.
Old 02-17-2018, 01:36 PM
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Maybe you can replace the nuts with a locking style? The nuts aren't really close to heat so a nylon locking nut should work with no problem. Just torque to spec.
Old 02-19-2018, 01:20 PM
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Don't just go by the color of the loctite. You can have two bottles of blue and one requires heat to remove and one can be removed with hand tools. I think 242 is the blue medium strength heat removal and 243 is blue medium strength hand tool removal. I've run into this at work when ordering loctite.
Old 02-19-2018, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by vettehardt
Don't just go by the color of the loctite. You can have two bottles of blue and one requires heat to remove and one can be removed with hand tools. I think 242 is the blue medium strength heat removal and 243 is blue medium strength hand tool removal. I've run into this at work when ordering loctite.
The only difference between 242 and 243, is that 243 doesn't require completely clean surfaces. It can have light oil on the surface.

Even the red 272 & 273 don't require heat to remove. They are more temperature resistant than the blue.


If you are using 268, that will require heat to remove.

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