his touch

I am going to get everything together for a conversion. I have several questions. I have 96 LT1

1. Since I am going to an electric water pump, do I need to plug the hole in the timing chain cover where the shaft comes out?

2.Which timing chain set should I use? I do not plan on going back to the regular pump.

3. would I be better off going with a new timing chain cover that doesn't have the hole?

4. Do I need to pull the oil pan to change the timing chain cover?


Thanks

Ron

SPD DMN

1. Yes you do or it will leak. Some JB weld and a $.50 piece goes a long way.
2. Since you have a '96 with ODBII, then your best option is the GM Heavy Duty timing set. The Cloyes double roller will not work without some modifications.
3. No.
4. Yes, or at least it is best to drop the front of the pan. You can pull it without dropping the pan, but if the gasket is old, it will more than likely tear. Without modifying the timing cover, you will have to drop the front of the pan anyway to reinstall it.

96GS#007

I'm headed down this same path. Here's what I've found to date...

"1. Since I am going to an electric water pump, do I need to plug the hole in the timing chain cover where the shaft comes out?"

Yes. Otherwise, it will eventually begin leaking oil. Small leak at first and then it gets worse.

"2.Which timing chain set should I use? I do not plan on going back to the regular pump."

With no other mods I'd stick with the stock chain. The LT4 chain is an upgrade. The LT4 Extreme Duty chain is a further upgrade. Both are $$ Before the masses jump in and suggest a double roller, note that the '96s require a modification to use an aftermarket chain.

"3. would I be better off going with a new timing chain cover that doesn't have the hole?"

They don't sell '96 covers without the hole ('96 is unique because of the Crankshaft Position Sensor). I bought a new cover and had a local machine shop plug it. Cost to plug it ... $5 :) You could remove your old cover and have it plugged if you want to save the cost of a new one (~$40)

"4. Do I need to pull the oil pan to change the timing chain cover?"

That's the safest way. Some have been able to work the cover off without dropping or loosening the pan. Why risk messing up the cover or oil pan gasket though?

:cheers:

Jim Mason
'96 Grand Sport #007

his touch

Is there a seal in the cover where the shaft goes through an should it be removed prior to JB Welding the 50 cent piece in place?

Can I remove the oil pan with out removing anything else under the motor, like motor mounts, ect?

I have 113,000 miles so I think it tis about time to change the timing gears and chain. Any other hints that will help with this project?


Thanks
Ron

388 SOLid RoLLeR

i installed a mezziere, and left the waterpump drive. I had it liek this for a few months. No leaking... maybe i cant see it. But after i was told to plug it, i believe that is the best route to take, and i will do it when i put it back on. My car ran COLD with the pump and it does give some free-er revving above 5000 rpm, you can feel it.

SPD DMN

There is a seal that you should remove. You will also have to remove the water pump drive gear from the block. This is easiest to remove with the intake off, but it is not necessary to remove the intake to remove it. It is a pressed in bearing with a shaft located behind the crankshaft sprocket of the timing chain.

Depending if you are a stick or an auto there may be different pieces to remove. For the stick, you will have to remove the dust cover for the flywheel, the starter, the oil filter and oil filter adapter (may need a new gasket upon reinstallation), and it is best to also remove the oil level sensor from the side of the pan (you will want to drain the oil before starting). Once these things are removed, you can drop the pan completely. If you pull the pan out completely, you will need to rotate the engine were the front counter weight on the crankshaft is in the up position or the oil pan will hit the crank. To reinstall, put a small dab of RTV at the 4 corners of the block and gently put the pan back in place.

If you have a modified motor or billet main caps, you will have to lift the motor up by removing at least one motor mount or the pan will not clear the main caps on removal.

Chris