sluggballz

I have another thread asking about diy rebuilding a 4l60e.
This is another set of questions.
First, a few weeks ago I replaced the solenoids in the valve body. Including the torque converter lockup. I didn't replace the harness, I cut and spliced the tc lockup and covered te splice with shrink wrap. I was chasing a sluggish downshift from 4 to 3 when accelerating under partial throttle, when I manually shifted to third or gave more throttle it dropped into third easily. As well as it would do a kind of flair from 2 to 3 from time to time. Sometimes it would be a firm shift, others a flair.
So, I changed the solenoids. Of course, nothing changed. I didn't have any dtc codes either.
Last Saturday, I put the car in reverse and it was a clunk and was slow to reverse. Then after I put in drive (OD) it clunked again and felt like it was starting in second. Very sluggish. It would only give me 2&3 forward and reverse.
I assumed the trans finally gave up, that's why the questions about a diy rebuild in the other thread.
I finally had the time to pull codes using paper clip this morning. There was four codes. 90, 81,82,&84. All pertaining to the solenoids I replaced.
Now the question. Would the splice of the tc lockup cause the codes? No other wires were cut. I've read that the trans harness is on the same fuse as the o2 sensors, but I haven't messed with them. What would be the chances that all of the parts I replaced were bad, or would just one bad one throw all of the codes?
More than one question and a long post. Sorry.
I haven't had time to investigate further because I had to leave for work after pulling codes.
Any help or insight would be great!

WVZR-1

I believe you first check the 'valet' fuse. Theoretically the codes will clear on a cycle of the ignition key if there are no faults. O2 is NOT on the same fuse.

Your issue I'm certainly unsure of but first I believe the 'fuse'.

Do you have access to a scanner? Tech1 or Tech2 will do I believe?

Did you use 'new' parts?

Solenoids are all a 'splice' in the TCC harness but I'd think if you were actually at the TCC you would be beyond the splices. You did all solenoids or just shift(square boxes) or also control(cylindrical devices)?

sluggballz

I used all new parts. All solenoids were Ac delco except for the tc lockup, it was new but unsure of the brand, it all came in a package deal.
All the other solenoids were replaced and the original clips used, just a cut and splice on the tc lockup wires.
I forgot to put in when I started the thread, I disconnected te battery and cleared te codes, then did paper clip again to check codes, there were none. I then started the car and checked for codes after shutdown. Three of the four came back. The one for 3-4 shift didn't show up, but I never left the garage, I just put it in reverse and drive several times. Again, each time it clunked and almost sounded like ALL of my u joints were bad at once.

WVZR-1

I know a couple people here with shops so I might have done a 'drive by' before doing it but maybe it's not unreasonable to do a 'drive by' now and ask. The FSM is a pretty straight forward read but.............

With the codes setting, cleared and then some reappearing I'd think the fuse is likely not an issue.

sluggballz

I don't really know of a local trans shop here with a good rep, especially when dealing with a dreaded corvette. My friend was a gm of a local shop and I asked him for recommendations , all he said was nobody in this county. I have the FSM, that flow chart was why I replaced the solenoids in the first place. I guess I will
Check fuses tonight and this weekend I will put the old parts back on to see if the codes reappear. I appreciate you taking time to help with this stuff.

sluggballz

Checked fuses. The "valet" fuse is popped. I'll go to get fuse tomorrow and replace it. Then see if it pops again. Hopefully that's why it went into limp. But I shall see tomorrow.

WVZR-1

I'd say it's good to have at least the 'blown fuse' for a starting point. Means squat maybe but I'd think a good starting point!1

sluggballz

I replaced the fuse this morn. Cleared codes. Started car. Shut down car. Checked codes, no codes thrown. New fuse ok. Started car, put in reverse, then drive. Shut down car. Checked fuse, blown. Checked codes, 83,84,90. Had to go to work. I'm going to put car up on jack stands when I get home and drain trans fluid tonight. Tomorrow morn before work I'll take pan off an check connections. I used shrink wrap to cover the splice areas. My thought is that possible something had happened at the splice to cause a short? I just twisted the splices together and used shrink wrap over that. All was well with things for about two weeks after the changes. Soooooo, that's going to be starting point. Thanks again for all the replies and insight.

arbee

Code 83 is TCC PWM(pulse width modulator) fault
Code 84 is 3-2 downshift solenoid fault
Code 90 is TCC solenoid circuit fault.

Without digging into my books deeper, I would suggest you have a short in the power supply to these circuits. I would start by unplugging the connector and checking with an ohmmeter which wires are grounded that shouldn't be.

WVZR-1

I understand how it's sometimes done but I don't know that dependent upon what's actually diagnosed why a person wouldn't just consider the harness vs 'cut/splice'. A harness get's the buyer the pass-through, the harness with proper connections and internal splices.

This is a typical 4L60e harness and I believe there's maybe 3 configurations for the C4 - each year was different originally. For a '95 the original I think 15320477 and an old SPO catalog I use mentions a TCC 'draindown' feature for that one. It might be an interesting conversation with a GM contact to maybe check for service replacements through the years. I have an older Transtar catalog I also use for references and that harness when you do a 'generic' search seems to reference the correct GM# but says 'call' from a couple vendors. In the after-market maybe a 425Q. I use/buy from WIT and they have a conversion for the GM# to that.

sluggballz

Update:
One: I did buy the harness, but im doing this in my garage on jackstands. I couldn't get the clip off of the harness connector. So, I cut and spliced.
B: my splice job wasn't what it should've been. When I pulled the pan this morning and looked at the splices, the shrink wrap was really soft and the splices had been mashed together and a few individual wires had perforated the wrap into each other, causing a short.

3: I replaced the splices with a crimp style. I've tested the trans and so far, so good.

Thank you for all the suggestions. This forum can be a lifesaver sometimes.

WVZR-1

Good to see fixed! Whose harness had you bought? GM/OE or ..... Just curious.

sluggballz

It was from rock auto. TransMaxx I believe.
Again, thanks everyone for replying and giving me ideas and knowledge. I learned a lot in one week doing investigative work about the 4l60e on the interweb . I used to consider the auto trans "black magic" lol, but now I kinda understand a bit more about it.