racerseks

Oh yea...Just to be clear, the belt is, and has been on the whole time after installing the alternator.

PatternDayTrader

Bolt it on the way its supposed to be and pretend the episode with the first one never happened.
In the amazingly unlikely event you have a second defective alternator, then you need to go buy some lotto tickets because the odds of that happening are astronomical.
The problem I have with trying to just "wire it up" to check and see, is that it leaves to many variables, plus you don't want to be connecting and disconnecting the heavy gauge charging wire from the alternator post anymore than you absolutely have to.

racerseks

LoL! But wait a sec...didn't you say 50% of the time the rebuilt alternators are bad? Doesn't that kinda up the possibility? Just giving you a hard time Thanks!

PatternDayTrader

Yes but they are not usually shorted.
Usually they just wont charge the battery.
Whatever you decide to do; just be very careful tightening and loosening the nut on the charging wire post. The plastic insulator around the post can crack and allow the post to touch the case where you cannot see it, or if the post itself turns, then on the inside of the case the wiring attached to the post can touch the side of the case and do the same thing. Both situations will result in exactly what you had happen with your first alternator, complete with the sparks and all ...

racerseks

Fair enough...

Yea, I never got to the point of even starting the car with the first one, so don't know.

Okay, thanks for the tips and warnings. How tight is that nut supposed to be?

Thanks!

PatternDayTrader

Snug.
Use you thumb and two fingers on a quarter drive ratchet. Just don't treat it like a bolt. Its only function is to hold the ring terminal end of the wire in place, so there is basically no stress on it.
As long as its not loose then it will be fine.
I keep harping on this because if someone just starts cranking on it like a normal bolt, then the post will rotate in the plastic insulator, and the wiring attached to the post on the inside of the case, will touch the side of the case and do exactly what you had happen with the first one.
Frankly, that's probably what happened with the first one. Someone else probably returned it to the store after wrecking it, and then the store sold it to you, because you cant even tell there's a problem unless you take it all apart.

racerseks

When I was a kid, I'd crank on 'em with so much torque, they'd snap! Most the time, it meant running out to the auto parts before closing hoping to find something, then fighting daylight, as I still do some 30 years later...but I have learned not to yank on most of 'em like that, and tighten most stuff like this as you have described. My 1/4" gets used the most! Thank God for lifetime tool guarantees!

No, I definitely gotcha on that. Very good advice! Is that insulator supposed to rotate with your fingers? First one does, but not the post...if so, it's a good chance you're right.

Thank you...

PatternDayTrader

No the insulator should not turn with your fingers, and if it does then its damaged.

racerseks

Makes sense...but bad news, the new one rotates too! Anyone have tonight's numbers for Florida?

racerseks

Well, I got this going. Second replacement alternator may have done the trick. I tested the output of the alternator after installing it, and I get 15.00-15.03 volts. Seems a bit high, doesn't it? No load or accessories on it, and I only ran it for less than a minute. My "low coolant" light came on, no doubt due to the antifreeze I lost taking the radiator hose off...so I don't know if it might calm down a bit if I turn a few things on, like the headlights etc. Putting new antifreeze in it in the next couple of days, so figured I'd wait till I do that, rather than add any now. Of course, I could put distilled water in there, but don't trust myself in case it takes me a little longer before I do the job. Busy days, these days...

Anyway...any thoughts? Should I be concerned?

PatternDayTrader

Yeah 15 seems a little high.
Are you getting that number off the dash gauge ? Or do you have a voltmeter ?

racerseks

I get around 15v both ways. Thanks!

JimLentz

15 is a bit high, but if the battery is fairly low it is possible. As it runs it should come down. I don't think a minute is long enough to tell if it is working right.

WVZR-1

I don't believe the 15V should be considered unreasonable and very dependent upon battery condition BUT since you're on #2 I think the only correct test would be a 'carbon-pile' load test of the alternator to actually confirm correct operation. You've every reason to be maybe reluctant to accept condition.

I'd get a 'carbon-pile' load test done. Where ever you bought it might be able to accommodate you or maybe you just visit a shop that can accommodate you. Anyone close that you do business with regularly? Maybe the shop that sold you the alternator could 'call in a favor' to a shop they do business with. There's no doubt the parts place has 'accommodated' a shop when they've done a 'bad guess' repair.

The only thing I saw in the entire thread I questioned was back at #21, on the charging terminal it looked to have a 'lock washer' between the nut and the ring terminal. My thoughts are that the compression required to crush the washer could certainly be enough to damage (maybe the terminal to rectifier internally). I don't believe that anything I own has a lock washer there.

Joe C

, per 96 FSM normal range is 13.5-15.5V. readings should be taken across the battery, engine running, with a DVM.

BTW, might as well add this -- per FSM -

alternator "BAT" terminal nut - 71 lb.in. (note: - INCH POUNDS)

battery cables - 11 lb.ft.

racerseks

Battery is new, but has been on a float charger since I bought it. Yea, I think it needs to run a bit...

Thanks!

racerseks

Thanks...yea, I'll consider it, or maybe I'll buy a tester like that. I have a regular load tester I forgot I had...what's the difference between them?

The lock washer came on both "new" alternators, and there was one on the one that came on the car. I haven't gone crazy tightening it...especially on the last one that now "works".

racerseks

Hey, that's great info...thanks! After looking over the manual that came with the alternator, it does say that range is acceptable, but could be for several vehicle types. I was testing at the alternator...should I be testing at the battery then?

Thank you.