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And how's the MAP sensor install? Just a tap into the intake? I'd really appreciate info on both sensors, since those are the only parts that are hanging me up on getting this sysyem.
Assuming you don't have a barb or nipple available, I would. I'd feel much better if you got the bracket like THIS and it should allow you to use a 90 degree hose barb. I'd like a shorter hose if possible. I did a long hose, it leaked and I went chasing all kinds of things before we chanced on the little leak on the long hose.
Assuming you don't have a barb or nipple available, I would. I'd feel much better if you got the bracket like THIS and it should allow you to use a 90 degree hose barb. I'd like a shorter hose if possible. I did a long hose, it leaked and I went chasing all kinds of things before we chanced on the little leak on the long hose.
So I get this straight - I just need to mount a MAP sensor, and it just has the one nipple that connects to the plenum or intake, and then the electrical connector? I think I can manage that. Didn't you mention having the Lingenfelter intake like me? Would you mind sharing a pic of your setup if you could?
Cool, gotcha. So I'd need a wideband 02 sensor, I assume those won't use the same one wire connector that I have, so I'd need to run a new wire? And how's the MAP sensor install? Just a tap into the intake? I'd really appreciate info on both sensors, since those are the only parts that are hanging me up on getting this sysyem.
TT1 comes with a wide band 02 - however, the website says out of stock......might want to email them.
TT1 comes with wiring harness and controller (see below picture)
You tap into the stock MAF harness and use wires for MAP harness. Then, mount, attach vacuum and plug in MAP sensor.
In my case (mini ram intake) I used vacuum port already on side of intake. Also, the min ram supplies you mounting point for MAP sensor
I removed existing narrow band 02 and then used same exhaust bung for the wide band 02 sensor
Oh, in the previous email I mentioned (installed) when talking about pricing. Installed refers to all internals of ECM to be installed for you not the system.....I am sure you figured that but didn't want to mislead you.
Before, making your purchase talk to the people at dynamic as I can only speak on my application. Also, look at Windows program requirements. I know have mine set up off a tablet and had appholstry shop make custom center console to hold my tablet (see below picture). I still have my stock ECM just in case.....
TT1 comes with a wide band 02 - however, the website says out of stock......might want to email them.
TT1 comes with wiring harness and controller (see below picture)
You tap into the stock MAF harness and use wires for MAP harness. Then, mount, attach vacuum and plug in MAP sensor.
In my case (mini ram intake) I used vacuum port already on side of intake. Also, the min ram supplies you mounting point for MAP sensor
I removed existing narrow band 02 and then used same exhaust bung for the wide band 02 sensor
Oh, in the previous email I mentioned (installed) when talking about pricing. Installed refers to all internals of ECM to be installed for you not the system.....I am sure you figured that but didn't want to mislead you.
Before, making your purchase talk to the people at dynamic as I can only speak on my application. Also, look at Windows program requirements. I know have mine set up off a tablet and had appholstry shop make custom center console to hold my tablet (see below picture). I still have my stock ECM just in case.....
You don't need a computer hooked up at all times, do you? I had assumed just for tuning you would.
Their wiring diagram doesn't show that wideband is required, so I'll get with them on that. I'm excited about this prospect.
And as for the MAF wires, you just keep track of what is what, and then pin into the ECM? That's not too bad at all.
Last edited by TheBlaster9001; 04-11-2018 at 11:45 PM.
So I get this straight - I just need to mount a MAP sensor, and it just has the one nipple that connects to the plenum or intake, and then the electrical connector? I think I can manage that. Didn't you mention having the Lingenfelter intake like me? Would you mind sharing a pic of your setup if you could?
The map sensor has a nipple on it. If your intake has a threaded hole at a convenient location, use that. If not, drill and tap one.
Unfortunately, the operative word is HAD. I had an Accel/Lingenfelter Superram system. I now have a Holley Stealth Ram. I also used to have a 74219 cam but different cam now. Still remember the cussing and swearing to get the intake on till I bitched at John L. He was like "Oh, there is a trick to it.". Well, thanks a lot for mentioning it in the instructions.
The map sensor has a nipple on it. If your intake has a threaded hole at a convenient location, use that. If not, drill and tap one.
Unfortunately, the operative word is HAD. I had an Accel/Lingenfelter Superram system. I now have a Holley Stealth Ram. I also used to have a 74219 cam but different cam now. Still remember the cussing and swearing to get the intake on till I bitched at John L. He was like "Oh, there is a trick to it.". Well, thanks a lot for mentioning it in the instructions.
Gotcha. I can use the emissions tap in the plenum since it isn't doing anything otherwise, thanks for the tip!
You don't need a computer hooked up at all times, do you? I had assumed just for tuning you would.
Their wiring diagram doesn't show that wideband is required, so I'll get with them on that. I'm excited about this prospect.
And as for the MAF wires, you just keep track of what is what, and then pin into the ECM? That's not too bad at all.
No, you don't need computer hooked up at all time. The tablet is my added thing.
You might be right on wideband.....remember, I am forced induction. However, wideband 02 is better to dial in a smooth running engine/tune car.....much better sensor than narrow band.
On the MAF/MAP rewiring the dynamic site has directions. This is wire splicing situation in the engine compartment. Oh, I kept my original MAF just in case.
I am not even close to a experienced mechanic......I did complete install using dynamic instructions.
Gotcha. I can use the emissions tap in the plenum since it isn't doing anything otherwise, thanks for the tip!
GM had a short 90 degree hose, Make sure it isn't kinked when you mount it. Keep it short and sweet. Make it a stiff hose. I would really like to keep this one single and not hook anything else into it. We need the vacuum to be as pure a value as possible.
No, you don't need computer hooked up at all time. The tablet is my added thing.
You might be right on wideband.....remember, I am forced induction. However, wideband 02 is better to dial in a smooth running engine/tune car.....much better sensor than narrow band.
On the MAF/MAP rewiring the dynamic site has directions. This is wire splicing situation in the engine compartment. Oh, I kept my original MAF just in case.
I am not even close to a experienced mechanic......I did complete install using dynamic instructions.
Good to know. Their site mentions that WB input is ignored by the ECM, that it is useful for datalogging purposes, and to have AFR displayed all the time, so I think I'll be ok with the NB O2 sensor. With boost mapping, I'm sure that the WB is necessary, since the air intake is less predictable, but on a naturally aspriated car, I think the thing should tune itself in. And if you, with boost, didn't have to do much of anything to tailor the ECM to your car, it should be a breeze for me.
Another question - what .bin gets loaded on the ECM? I assume they provide it?
GM had a short 90 degree hose, Make sure it isn't kinked when you mount it. Keep it short and sweet. Make it a stiff hose. I would really like to keep this one single and not hook anything else into it. We need the vacuum to be as pure a value as possible.
Sounds good. Are the 90/91 sensors 1 bar? Any advantage to higher ratings?
I'm lost. I have a 1985 corvette that I recently just Re-built. In the engine I installed new heads, Slightly larger Injectors and a mild camshaft that is comparable to stock cam specs. I also did a smog delete to have less restriction on my airflow through the engine. My understanding (and i may likely be wrong) is the stock ECM will try and make my engine run like a stock.
My questions are can I run my engine with a stock ECM. Will it hurt my engine?
If I have to re-configure my ECM can it just be re programmed? (I spoke to a tune shop and they said it has to be replaced because its so old and its about $2,500 to do so) I've gotten mixed responses about that.
Lastly If i have to replace it can somebody recommend a good ECM that I can install without killing my bank acct?
i'm basically just running my engine a notch above stock and I'd prefer to not mess with my ECM for the time being if possible. Just re-stored this car and would like to have it on the road for a month or so before continuing my upgrades.
Thanks in advanced,
Before everyone scares you to death with high tech mods,
the 85 computer chip will mainly look at injector size and cam duration,
So if you have 24lb injectors and a cam that is very similiar to the stock cam, especially in relation to duration, then your stock 85 ECM chip will run that engine fine.
Good to know. Their site mentions that WB input is ignored by the ECM, that it is useful for datalogging purposes, and to have AFR displayed all the time, so I think I'll be ok with the NB O2 sensor. With boost mapping, I'm sure that the WB is necessary, since the air intake is less predictable, but on a naturally aspriated car, I think the thing should tune itself in. And if you, with boost, didn't have to do much of anything to tailor the ECM to your car, it should be a breeze for me.
Another question - what .bin gets loaded on the ECM? I assume they provide it?
I am not sure of the exact name of the bin.......it's been a year and my memory is not that great.
The first thing to do is to read in the XDF file. To do this click on the XDF entry of the menu bar and then Select XDF... Navigate to the folder with the EBL files and click on the XDF entry. The name of the XDF file will vary according to which product you have.
For the EBL Flash:
EBL_V31.XDF
Yes, the provide the starter bin. The bins will be located below once you install software on your laptop. I think there are (30) bin files on there.....they have them tagged by engine type if I remember correctly.
Select the calibration file (BIN) to edit. Navigate to the folder with the calibration files and select the one you want to edit. The default folder will be:
I am not sure of the exact name of the bin.......it's been a year and my memory is not that great.
The first thing to do is to read in the XDF file. To do this click on the XDF entry of the menu bar and then Select XDF... Navigate to the folder with the EBL files and click on the XDF entry. The name of the XDF file will vary according to which product you have.
For the EBL Flash:
EBL_V31.XDF
Yes, the provide the starter bin. The bins will be located below once you install software on your laptop. I think there are (30) bin files on there.....they have them tagged by engine type if I remember correctly.
Select the calibration file (BIN) to edit. Navigate to the folder with the calibration files and select the one you want to edit. The default folder will be:
Sure. Yes, it's a click/check it situation in the Tuner Pro program.
Awesome. They got back to me on a couple sensor/wiring questions, I think I'm gonna do this. One question for you: did you tap the wires for the MAF, or did you just replace the connector with a MAP connector? I'm thinking of cutting the MAF connector off, soldering in a MAP connector, and using that to hook into the MAP.
Also, did you relocate your air temp sensor? It seems like a bitter debate about where the best place is, I think I'll leave it in the plenum unless it runs bad.
Awesome. They got back to me on a couple sensor/wiring questions, I think I'm gonna do this. One question for you: did you tap the wires for the MAF, or did you just replace the connector with a MAP connector? I'm thinking of cutting the MAF connector off, soldering in a MAP connector, and using that to hook into the MAP.
Also, did you relocate your air temp sensor? It seems like a bitter debate about where the best place is, I think I'll leave it in the plenum unless it runs bad.
Great! I spliced in a new MAP connector....MAP 2 bar has different connector. You would have a better connection with soldering. Yes, my air temp sensor is in 90 degree tube that attaches to throttle body.
Great! I spliced in a new MAP connector....MAP 2 bar has different connector. You would have a better connection with soldering. Yes, my air temp sensor is in 90 degree tube that attaches to throttle body.
I've placed my order, excited to try this out. Gonna use a '90 MAP sensor and new connector. Fingers crossed the MAT won't get heatsoaked, but I'll relocate it to the intake duct.
Is your throttle body modified? I don't see how I could get a sensor there without drilling into it. The MAP vettes had the IAT in the plenum stock, so I'm confident it'll be ok.
Thanks for putting up with all my questions! I've been looking for a way to get modern tuneability out of my car for a long time, this seems like an easy, simple, and effective solution. I'll post back with my results, I'm expecting better mileage, and maybe a few horses.
Yes, my air temp sensor is in 90 degree tube that attaches to throttle body.
But if you tune it, what difference would it make? It's only if you don't tune it that you would try to fool the ECM into thinking its cooler than it is so it enriches fueling or am I lookin at it wrong?
But if you tune it, what difference would it make? It's only if you don't tune it that you would try to fool the ECM into thinking its cooler than it is so it enriches fueling or am I lookin at it wrong?
I was reading on a much of tuner websites about where is the 'right' place. Some advocated in the manifold, since closer to the cylinders best reprents the temperature of the air being used. Others were claiming that it would get heat contaminated if it is in the manifold/plenum. So some said before the throttle body, but that causes issues for forced induction, as well as not actually representing air in the manifold (since it picks up a little heat). So some then argued that the throttle body is the best since it was in the middle.
I'm hoping I won't have to move it. Did you relocate yours away from the plenum? Mine never gets so hot that I can't touch it, so I hope heat soaking will be less of an issue.
04-11-2018, 11:09 PM
