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aluminum half shaft u-joints

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Old 04-15-2018, 03:35 PM
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fish2keel
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Default aluminum half shaft u-joints

Im replacing the u-joints in my half shafts. I bought the 1350x's without fully under standing the coated vs uncoated. Should I return and get the coated?

Also are DANA 53613X u-joints coated?

Thanks everyone!
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Old 04-15-2018, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by fish2keel View Post
Im replacing the u-joints in my half shafts. I bought the 1350x's without fully under standing the coated vs uncoated. Should I return and get the coated?

Also are DANA 53613X u-joints coated?

Thanks everyone!
I don't know firsthand how bad the uncoated caps are, but if the Chevy manuals/literature is to be trusted, it matters. I've done u joints on two C4s now, it's a little bit of a chore, depending on how you drop the shafts. I used Preciscion joints on one, and Moog on the other. Both were easy to install, the Preciscion joints were from different batches (the caps/bodies were different colors, but stampings were the same). I bought the Moogs from rockauto.com, and would get them from there if I had to do it again.

The reason for the coating (if you aren't aware) is because the non-aluminum caps and aluminum shafts will undergo what is known as bi-metal corrosion, which essentially is the two metals reacting with one another and corroding. Allegedly this can lead to the caps seizing to the shafts, and I've read about the shafts cracking as a result of long term corrosion.

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Old 04-15-2018, 06:17 PM
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fish2keel
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Originally Posted by TheBlaster9001 View Post
I don't know firsthand how bad the uncoated caps are, but if the Chevy manuals/literature is to be trusted, it matters. I've done u joints on two C4s now, it's a little bit of a chore, depending on how you drop the shafts. I used Preciscion joints on one, and Moog on the other. Both were easy to install, the Preciscion joints were from different batches (the caps/bodies were different colors, but stampings were the same). I bought the Moogs from rockauto.com, and would get them from there if I had to do it again.

TheBlaster9001,

Thanks for the reply. I have decided to get the coated ones. do you have the Moog or precision part numbers?
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Old 04-15-2018, 06:19 PM
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Old 04-15-2018, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by fish2keel View Post
TheBlaster9001,

Thanks for the reply. I have decided to get the coated ones. do you have the Moog or precision part numbers?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1985,corvette,5.7l+350cid+v8,1 041208,drivetrain,universal+joint,2392

There's where I bought mine from. Part number was 231C for the nicer ones. The ones that were labeled as Precision I bought at a local parts store.
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Old 04-15-2018, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by fish2keel View Post
If those fit, that's a good price for Spicer joints.
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Old 04-15-2018, 06:37 PM
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Im not sure if those fit or not lol. I was wondering if they do. Rock auto has those even cheaper and recommend them for the C4.
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Old 04-15-2018, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by TheBlaster9001 View Post
If those fit, that's a good price for Spicer joints.

Here is the splicer. How can we verify these?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...041208&jsn=480
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Old 04-15-2018, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by fish2keel View Post
Here is the splicer. How can we verify these?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...041208&jsn=480
I've never had rockauto be wrong on fitment. If they have it listed under your car, it'll work.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1985,corvette,5.7l+350cid+v8,1 041208,drivetrain,universal+joint,2392

Down at the bottom of that link they list the spicer joints for the half shafts, 53615 for my 85. You can go to the main page rockauto.com and navigate to your exact car, and search for u joints.
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Old 04-15-2018, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by TheBlaster9001 View Post
I've never had rockauto be wrong on fitment. If they have it listed under your car, it'll work.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...sal+joint,2392

Down at the bottom of that link they list the spicer joints for the half shafts, 53615 for my 85. You can go to the main page rockauto.com and navigate to your exact car, and search for u joints.

They actually have both listed.
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Old 04-15-2018, 10:10 PM
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The 3613x is a driveshaft u-joint that has series 1310 dimensions. They will not fit the half shafts which are series 1350 dimensions.

I went ahead and installed the 1350x joints on my half shafts. I live down South and the car isn't driven in the rain/snow so I am not too concerned about galvanic corrosion. Plus, I changed all the u-joints on the car and not a single one of them was the coated type, they were all the cheap auto box store type except for the crossover Spicer u-joint at my tail shaft yoke. I noticed no corrosion and they all came out smoothly.

Also, I never even knew they made coated u-joints until a couple of months ago when I joined the forum to find information out about my C4. I have owned lots of cars with aluminum driveshafts and never once removed or installed a coated u-joint.
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Old 04-15-2018, 10:21 PM
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Oh really. The car will be driven in rain but no snow for sure. I'm glad to see the 3613's were for the drive shaft and I didn't purchase them. I'm back on the hunt then
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Old 04-16-2018, 08:26 AM
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Anyone else? Trying to find something more affordable than the 22.96 coated ones but dont want a problem down the road.
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Old 04-16-2018, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by fish2keel View Post
Anyone else? Trying to find something more affordable than the 22.96 coated ones but dont want a problem down the road.
I had the same feelings, but went with the side of caution. GM shipped them with coated joints, and there is loads of literature out there about the harm of galvanic corrosion. Galvanic corrosion doesn't need rain/snow/salt to corrode, any electrolyte will do it, which would include humidity. The concern with U joint specifically is that they are cyclically worn - they go 'round and 'round. Once the joints/shafts have started to oxidize, the 'rust' acts as an electrolyte, which could cause the 'rust' to set in even if the car only was wet once.
Perhaps some have got away with non-coated caps, but the metal industry didn't develop anti-galvanic coatings because they wanted to up-charge people.
If you plan on getting rid of the car soon, by all means, the cheap-o joints will work, but if they seize in place, the next time you need joints, you might be getting half-shafts as well.
Just my .02, but if GM spent the extra money for coated caps, I figure I should too.
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Old 04-16-2018, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TheBlaster9001 View Post
I had the same feelings, but went with the side of caution. GM shipped them with coated joints, and there is loads of literature out there about the harm of galvanic corrosion. Galvanic corrosion doesn't need rain/snow/salt to corrode, any electrolyte will do it, which would include humidity. The concern with U joint specifically is that they are cyclically worn - they go 'round and 'round. Once the joints/shafts have started to oxidize, the 'rust' acts as an electrolyte, which could cause the 'rust' to set in even if the car only was wet once.
Perhaps some have got away with non-coated caps, but the metal industry didn't develop anti-galvanic coatings because they wanted to up-charge people.
If you plan on getting rid of the car soon, by all means, the cheap-o joints will work, but if they seize in place, the next time you need joints, you might be getting half-shafts as well.
Just my .02, but if GM spent the extra money for coated caps, I figure I should too.
I think you are at 4 cents now.
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Old 04-16-2018, 08:16 PM
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Just did mine a couple weeks ago, not too hard at all. Used the Moogs, from Advanced Auto. Afternoon job in the driveway after watching the YouTube video where the guys wife pitches in. I enticed my better half to join in as well.
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Old 04-16-2018, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Huvr View Post
Just did mine a couple weeks ago, not too hard at all. Used the Moogs, from Advanced Auto. Afternoon job in the driveway after watching the YouTube video where the guys wife pitches in. I enticed my better half to join in as well.
have a part number
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Old 04-16-2018, 10:40 PM
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I used to use non-coated Spicer unjoints on the driveshaft and half shafts with no problem. Hundreds of runs down the 1/4.
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Old 04-16-2018, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 383vett View Post
I used to use non-coated Spicer unjoints on the driveshaft and half shafts with no problem. Hundreds of runs down the 1/4.
I think this is where the difference comes in. There are a lot of Corvette owners that daily or baby their rides and the first change of the u-joints comes 15-20+ years from the manufacture date (I believe this is why GM went with coated, they new the majority of Corvettes wouldn't have the u-joints changed for 20+ years). Then there are guys that flat out hot rod these vehicles and probably feel extremely lucky to get 5 years out of a set of u-joints. We also don't own/drive the car as a daily and have no intentions of driving it when it is wet out because it is quite pointless. Therefore using the non-coated type isn't going to cause any problems unless we weld up a hitch and start dropping and pulling our center console boat in and out of the ocean.

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Old 04-17-2018, 01:46 PM
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Who has the best price for the 1350x joints now? I'm about to do all of mine.
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