Fuel pump removal and install-tips?
#23
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Nov 2013
Location: Greater Cincinnati Area.
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IMO..
Take your time.. Get a little pick or something and remove that terminal from the housing. Re-install the wires in the terminal. Crimp the terminal a little, and solder them in well. Re-install the terminal in the plastic housing.
Alternatively, you could return the part..
It may be a good thing this happened now because if you had a bad connection there it would just fail eventually anyway.
Take your time.. Get a little pick or something and remove that terminal from the housing. Re-install the wires in the terminal. Crimp the terminal a little, and solder them in well. Re-install the terminal in the plastic housing.
Alternatively, you could return the part..
It may be a good thing this happened now because if you had a bad connection there it would just fail eventually anyway.
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1993C4LT1 (05-05-2018)
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1993C4LT1 (05-06-2018)
#27
Race Director
Thread Starter
I won't say a word about what I think of Racetronics "quality". Other than this is typical of my experiences. Wrong wires in wrong cavities (burned up the guy's gas gauge in his cluster. I can't take credit for not seeing the problem, because I didn't install the harness, another guy did and when he couldn't get it to run, it was towed to my shop. I saw it right away, but the damage to the gauge cluster was already done.), poorly crimped terminals (you found one too), and one of their recently installed pumps was blowing 20A fuses (with no wiring damage or other consequences, confab) until it failed completely and I got a 11:00PM call to come tow his azz to the house. Pump was less than a week old.
I mentioned the Racetronix booster harness as a solution to address confab's concern about increasing a fuse size 50%. I also mentioned it is possible to make a booster harness yourself with a $6 relay and some wire and terminals if you possess the knowledge to do so.
The connector on the underside of the top of the tank shows evidence of having been heated. If this were my project, I would mechanically fasten the terminals or wrap the wire around the cleaned pins and solder the connections. The new pump does draw more than a stock pump. If it burned with the stocker (which it did) it will burn with the 225. Solder those connections, and you won't be opening it up again in 4 weeks to fix a burned connector. Unless you too get a jankey Racetronix pump. Hope you don't.
I mentioned the Racetronix booster harness as a solution to address confab's concern about increasing a fuse size 50%. I also mentioned it is possible to make a booster harness yourself with a $6 relay and some wire and terminals if you possess the knowledge to do so.
The connector on the underside of the top of the tank shows evidence of having been heated. If this were my project, I would mechanically fasten the terminals or wrap the wire around the cleaned pins and solder the connections. The new pump does draw more than a stock pump. If it burned with the stocker (which it did) it will burn with the 225. Solder those connections, and you won't be opening it up again in 4 weeks to fix a burned connector. Unless you too get a jankey Racetronix pump. Hope you don't.
#28
Race Director
Thread Starter
Do you guys this will work for the underside of the tank? I see the three pin connector. Since mine has "slightly burnt pins", I just want to replace that connector as well.
http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...WA-C44&eq=&Tp=
http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...WA-C44&eq=&Tp=
#29
Team Owner
Do you guys this will work for the underside of the tank? I see the three pin connector. Since mine has "slightly burnt pins", I just want to replace that connector as well.
http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...WA-C44&eq=&Tp=
http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...WA-C44&eq=&Tp=
I guess I am not totally sold on needing that much amps to run the pump unless I really need the amount of feed. I have run my car at WOT and it doesn't seem to be starving for fuel according to the gauge and an engine builder when we did it years ago.
#30
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2001
Location: Athens AL
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The 3-pin connector on the underside of your sending unit looks a little cooked. Mine was really really cooked. I would go ahead and get that kit from them and change it out. You will probably destroy the factory one getting it out, but pay close attention to how the new one goes in, theres really only one way it will work right and connect outside and inside.
I won't get into their tech support and general quality but they do have the kits that you need. They should start providing them all in one kit since it appears nearly everyone these days is having the harness go out too.
Last edited by vader86; 05-07-2018 at 01:02 PM.
#31
Zen Vet Master Level VII
You could do this and save the cost of the new kit. PLus, you'd be driving tonight verses waiting days for a FedEx!
#32
Race Director
Thread Starter
I would suggest that since you are here already, get the wire connectors from Racetronix. I really don't like it if something goes wrong and you get blamed especially if you can send them pictures and ask what to do.
I guess I am not totally sold on needing that much amps to run the pump unless I really need the amount of feed. I have run my car at WOT and it doesn't seem to be starving for fuel according to the gauge and an engine builder when we did it years ago.
I guess I am not totally sold on needing that much amps to run the pump unless I really need the amount of feed. I have run my car at WOT and it doesn't seem to be starving for fuel according to the gauge and an engine builder when we did it years ago.
Yes, still stock fuse. Since I upgraded with their harness there is another in-line fuse up at the front of the car next to the alternator. If I bypass that harness, I would make sure the fuse is bigger.
The 3-pin connector on the underside of your sending unit looks a little cooked. Mine was really really cooked. I would go ahead and get that kit from them and change it out. You will probably destroy the factory one getting it out, but pay close attention to how the new one goes in, theres really only one way it will work right and connect outside and inside.
I won't get into their tech support and general quality but they do have the kits that you need. They should start providing them all in one kit since it appears nearly everyone these days is having the harness go out too.
The 3-pin connector on the underside of your sending unit looks a little cooked. Mine was really really cooked. I would go ahead and get that kit from them and change it out. You will probably destroy the factory one getting it out, but pay close attention to how the new one goes in, theres really only one way it will work right and connect outside and inside.
I won't get into their tech support and general quality but they do have the kits that you need. They should start providing them all in one kit since it appears nearly everyone these days is having the harness go out too.
#33
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2001
Location: Athens AL
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No their instructions don't really tell you ****, which was my problem when talking to them when I tried troubleshooting that 40A relay that comes in that kit.
Connect the alternator ring to the post on the back of the alternator, and zip tie that fuse right next to it on the wiring harness that runs right next to the weatherstripping. Then route all the wiring down below the brake booster with the main harness with zipties, and down along the frame on the drivers side with the brake lines.
Drill a small hole on the frame to mount the relay, mine is just above the rear suspension on the frame. Make sure the ground is good. Route all the wires around and the fuel tank as best you can and it just plugs into the factory. One 3-connector to the factory power, which sends power to the relay, then another 3 connector back up to the fuel pump. Its basically in-between the factory circuit. This is my install
The added body ground upgrade cable isn't really necessary and was causing me issues. Their provided battery nuts are going to strip if you turn them too much, so I trashed those.
Connect the alternator ring to the post on the back of the alternator, and zip tie that fuse right next to it on the wiring harness that runs right next to the weatherstripping. Then route all the wiring down below the brake booster with the main harness with zipties, and down along the frame on the drivers side with the brake lines.
Drill a small hole on the frame to mount the relay, mine is just above the rear suspension on the frame. Make sure the ground is good. Route all the wires around and the fuel tank as best you can and it just plugs into the factory. One 3-connector to the factory power, which sends power to the relay, then another 3 connector back up to the fuel pump. Its basically in-between the factory circuit. This is my install
The added body ground upgrade cable isn't really necessary and was causing me issues. Their provided battery nuts are going to strip if you turn them too much, so I trashed those.
Last edited by vader86; 05-07-2018 at 02:43 PM.
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1993C4LT1 (05-07-2018)
#35
Team Owner
I had no issues with their electric clips but whether they have changed since then is another issue so hard to say. As to their wire upgrade, I haven't seen enough pressure drop at WOT to really say it is worth the trouble of install.
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1993C4LT1 (05-07-2018)
#36
Race Director
Thread Starter
Excellent, thanks Vader. Sorry to keep asking all the dumb questions guys. So before leaving to work this morning, the garage smelled a lot like gas, no surprise. So I put the pump back in the tank, and put the gas cap back on. When I got back home, I realized I put the pump in the tank without the sock. Wonder if I hurt the pump already, by doing that?
Last edited by 1993C4LT1; 05-07-2018 at 08:23 PM.
#38
Instructor
FWIW, it's been two years since I changed my fuel pump with a Walbro from Racetronics. First, the in tank part of my sending init was rusted, too. Even though it cleaned up pretty well my feeling was that it will just quickly just rust again. So, I replaced it as well as the seal/gasket. Second, after my install, no start. I removed the new pump, began looking closely at the wires and I discovered that the positive and negative were transposed. I never thought to check before installation, I just assumed they would be correct. I had to remove the wires from the supplied connector, reverse and replace in the connector. Instant start. Lastly, Unless your tank is spotless, I suggest using a vacuum extractor and sucking your tank dry and any debris in the tank. It's not worth the few bucks worth of gas to risk that debris mucking up the sock. Well, that was two cents worth. Good luck!
#39
Team Owner
Excellent, thanks Vader. Sorry to keep asking all the dumb questions guys. So before leaving to work this morning, the garage smelled a lot like gas, no surprise. So I put the pump back in the tank, and put the gas cap back on. When I got back home, I realized I put the pump in the tank without the sock. Wonder if I hurt the pump already, by doing that?
#40
Team Owner
This is worrisome. Did YOU flip it around or did they?