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Yeah, if i put it back to stock the fueling issues return.
my engine gets super thirsty above 4800 rpm.
I also have 80lb injectors and an ebl flash ecm...
The vac ref is so i can run @ 20psi under load, but still idle smoothly@15psi
the re plumbing evened out the flow of fuel to the throttle bodies.
In the current setup the car launches, even with the 3.07 rear end the car is pretty quick off the line.
I have beat a few turbo cars up the freeway on ramp, so far a wrx and a golf gti.
both cars do about 4.5sec 0-60.
that's a pretty good improvement from the old cfi.
You do realize you have the fuel plumbing completely different from GM's original design. Originally, if memory serves me correct, fuel enters the passenger throttle body and then goes into the driver's side throttle body where the pressure regulator regulates pressure to both throttle bodies. Have you eliminated the stock pressure regulator? What does it dyno at or more importantly, what does it do in the 1/4? It's hard to judge how quick your car is by beating VWs or WRXs on onramps.
That's a cool pic - I have several from when I tore my engine down. I framed a few of them because I think they are cool. The EBL will give you 1/4 mile and 0-60 times to the .1 of a second if you do a datalog + playback after the drive. Hit the spacebar before you take off to make your start easier to find in the log. It felt good to finally have tangible evidence of how my car was doing. I haven't got a good 1/4 since I got the tune straightened out, but 0-60 is right at 4 seconds.
That's a cool pic - I have several from when I tore my engine down. I framed a few of them because I think they are cool. The EBL will give you 1/4 mile and 0-60 times to the .1 of a second if you do a datalog + playback after the drive. Hit the spacebar before you take off to make your start easier to find in the log. It felt good to finally have tangible evidence of how my car was doing. I haven't got a good 1/4 since I got the tune straightened out, but 0-60 is right at 4 seconds.
Thanks, and yeah...
Usually when i launch the car it's because i had a solid opening, and things "felt" right.
I have been doing learns via a cheap win10 tablet.
I now have a $5 Bluetooth keyboard to go along with it, but i still drive with both hands on the steering wheel, or one hand on the shifter.
(i shift manually 99.9% of the time)
Still working things out, the hardest part is getting a solid wb PE learn at high rpm, requires speeds over 100mph due to my gearing...
I'm probably going to buy some time on a dyno very soon...
Thanks, and yeah...
Usually when i launch the car it's because i had a solid opening, and things "felt" right.
I have been doing learns via a cheap win10 tablet.
I now have a $5 Bluetooth keyboard to go along with it, but i still drive with both hands on the steering wheel, or one hand on the shifter.
(i shift manually 99.9% of the time)
Still working things out, the hardest part is getting a solid wb PE learn at high rpm, requires speeds over 100mph due to my gearing...
I'm probably going to buy some time on a dyno very soon...
I resurrected an old HP laptop made for Windows XP. That way I can risk beating it up, or leaving it in a hot car and not worry.
You can start your datalog before you set out, and stop it when you are done driving, and analyze the data whenever. I dialed my PE in by making small changes, then observing 0-60 and 60-100 time over 5 pulls, then averaging. Went from 4.7 to 4.0 0-60 that way, plus some spark advance changes.
I also usually shift manually, at least going up. Downshifts are rather rough in mine done manually.
I wish dyno time was more affordable, then I could get a concrete number. I have the dyno sheet showing 375 at the wheels, but that was before I got the car.
Also doing the quarter mile and 0-60 times i had some numbers that were way to low, i need to find a good place, pull over and start data logging.
Yessir, that's what I did. My spark advance was so off initially it was a 5+ second 0-60. I took one evening, went out in the country to a mile long, straight, smooth road, and put the car through its paces. I'd do two sets of five pulls, then adjusting between sets, and let the car rest after 10 pulls.
Yessir, that's what I did. My spark advance was so off initially it was a 5+ second 0-60. I took one evening, went out in the country to a mile long, straight, smooth road, and put the car through its paces. I'd do two sets of five pulls, then adjusting between sets, and let the car rest after 10 pulls.
375 i would consider good for one of these old cars.
I like to think I'm very close to that number, my wet dream is over 400, but i doubt it.
That said, my first car was a mazda rx7.
in highschool, that car would eat mustangs for breakfast.
This vette as it sits feels way faster than that car ever was.
and it's waaay more solid at speed and cornering.
I have gone faster in this car while trying to get a solid wb read than i will admit on the internet.
You do realize you have the fuel plumbing completely different from GM's original design. Originally, if memory serves me correct, fuel enters the passenger throttle body and then goes into the driver's side throttle body where the pressure regulator regulates pressure to both throttle bodies. Have you eliminated the stock pressure regulator? What does it dyno at or more importantly, what does it do in the 1/4? It's hard to judge how quick your car is by beating VWs or WRXs on onramps.
383, if your the guy I'm thinking of and located here in utah, i understand your the one i need to talk to!
I was scheduled to meet up at the track back in april (and i wanted to chat with you about some machining), however due to some surgery i was not in any condition to do anything fun.
I'm wanting to stroke my engine eventually, but that plan got pushed back.
i do have a set of throttle bodies i want to have bored out to 2in, sitting in a box...
Also when i stroke my engine, i might need some machining on my heads as well for the camshaft i'm thinking about running.
Is there some reason you didn't mention any of this stuff in your initial #1 post?
I'm done.
Sorry man, it seemed to be a standard thing for these vettes.
Except mine does seem to be a bit more extreme.
Another thing i did not mention, when i bought my car the fuel gauge did not work all that well.
When i swapped out the fuel pump the car would run for a second, and the park lights would not turn off...
Super freaking weird, i even went through and rewired the pump with a kit that came with the fuel pump, but no change...
Digging more i found the fuel pump grounded through the freaking tail lights..
I gave the fuel pump it's very own ground to resolve the issue.
And the fuel gauge has been 100% ever since...
I will note that all of my tail light bulbs had an 83 stamped on them, except for one...
375 i would consider good for one of these old cars.
I like to think I'm very close to that number, my wet dream is over 400, but i doubt it.
That said, my first car was a mazda rx7.
in highschool, that car would eat mustangs for breakfast.
This vette as it sits feels way faster than that car ever was.
and it's waaay more solid at speed and cornering.
I have gone faster in this car while trying to get a solid wb read than i will admit on the internet.
Too much above 500 and you either go forced induction, or lose drivability with a big cam. I'm happy with how she does now, but may opt for bigger injectors down the road. I can get to 80% DC on my current ones at 5800 rpm, although the car is done pulling by then anyway.
I've gone fast twice in mine, once to prove it to myself, the other to "impress" my now girlfriend. Acceleration is fun, high speeds give me anxiety.
06-16-2018, 09:56 AM
