replacing bushing on rear spring with poly bushing, any advice
06-15-2018, 05:22 AM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
replacing bushing on rear spring with poly bushing, any advice
my factory rubber bushing on the rear spring are almost gone to are gone, I bought the poly bushing kit for the entire car but I need to replace the rear spring bushing first, Any advice or heads up? Oh, its an 86 auto
Last edited by ghoastrider1; 06-15-2018 at 05:23 AM.
06-15-2018, 11:41 PM
#2
Safety Car
Being no one has responded, I can tell you what I did when upgrading my rear suspension. Before starting, measure the distance from the top of the wheelwell to the floor, you'll check that later.
I blocked the front wheels, loosened the lug nuts on the rear wheels and raised the rear end and put the car on jack stands. I took one wheel off to gain access. Pulled the cotter key out of the bolt and counted the exposed threads on the bolt. I cut a piece of oak maybe 2"x2.5" and cut to length so it fit in the cup of my floor jack. I put the block next to the nut (hooking the metal tab on the spring by the bolt) and carefully raised the spring enough to take pressure off the nut and unscrew it, remove the bolt. Then slowly and carefully lowered the spring to take pressure off that one side (I was doing other work, if you're quick you might need to lower the spring). Swap out the bushings and washers to the new ones. Drop the bolt through the knuckle. Carefully raise the spring till the bolt is sufficiently through the hole that you can fit the lower bushing, washer and start the nut. Once you have the nut on far enough, tighten it up to the point the same number of threads are exposed and put in the cotter key. Put on the wheel and snug the lug nuts.
Now do the same thing on the other side. Once both are done, take the car off the jackstands and lower the car. Tighten the lug nuts take drive it a few blocks. Recheck your lug nuts and check your wheelwell to floor distance. You may have to do some later adjustments due to the difference in thickness of the bushings.
That's it.
I blocked the front wheels, loosened the lug nuts on the rear wheels and raised the rear end and put the car on jack stands. I took one wheel off to gain access. Pulled the cotter key out of the bolt and counted the exposed threads on the bolt. I cut a piece of oak maybe 2"x2.5" and cut to length so it fit in the cup of my floor jack. I put the block next to the nut (hooking the metal tab on the spring by the bolt) and carefully raised the spring enough to take pressure off the nut and unscrew it, remove the bolt. Then slowly and carefully lowered the spring to take pressure off that one side (I was doing other work, if you're quick you might need to lower the spring). Swap out the bushings and washers to the new ones. Drop the bolt through the knuckle. Carefully raise the spring till the bolt is sufficiently through the hole that you can fit the lower bushing, washer and start the nut. Once you have the nut on far enough, tighten it up to the point the same number of threads are exposed and put in the cotter key. Put on the wheel and snug the lug nuts.
Now do the same thing on the other side. Once both are done, take the car off the jackstands and lower the car. Tighten the lug nuts take drive it a few blocks. Recheck your lug nuts and check your wheelwell to floor distance. You may have to do some later adjustments due to the difference in thickness of the bushings.
That's it.
Last edited by hcbph; 06-15-2018 at 11:43 PM.
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ghoastrider1 (06-23-2018)
06-23-2018, 09:27 PM
#3
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
thanks
Being no one has responded, I can tell you what I did when upgrading my rear suspension. Before starting, measure the distance from the top of the wheelwell to the floor, you'll check that later.
I blocked the front wheels, loosened the lug nuts on the rear wheels and raised the rear end and put the car on jack stands. I took one wheel off to gain access. Pulled the cotter key out of the bolt and counted the exposed threads on the bolt. I cut a piece of oak maybe 2"x2.5" and cut to length so it fit in the cup of my floor jack. I put the block next to the nut (hooking the metal tab on the spring by the bolt) and carefully raised the spring enough to take pressure off the nut and unscrew it, remove the bolt. Then slowly and carefully lowered the spring to take pressure off that one side (I was doing other work, if you're quick you might need to lower the spring). Swap out the bushings and washers to the new ones. Drop the bolt through the knuckle. Carefully raise the spring till the bolt is sufficiently through the hole that you can fit the lower bushing, washer and start the nut. Once you have the nut on far enough, tighten it up to the point the same number of threads are exposed and put in the cotter key. Put on the wheel and snug the lug nuts.
Now do the same thing on the other side. Once both are done, take the car off the jackstands and lower the car. Tighten the lug nuts take drive it a few blocks. Recheck your lug nuts and check your wheelwell to floor distance. You may have to do some later adjustments due to the difference in thickness of the bushings.
That's it.
I blocked the front wheels, loosened the lug nuts on the rear wheels and raised the rear end and put the car on jack stands. I took one wheel off to gain access. Pulled the cotter key out of the bolt and counted the exposed threads on the bolt. I cut a piece of oak maybe 2"x2.5" and cut to length so it fit in the cup of my floor jack. I put the block next to the nut (hooking the metal tab on the spring by the bolt) and carefully raised the spring enough to take pressure off the nut and unscrew it, remove the bolt. Then slowly and carefully lowered the spring to take pressure off that one side (I was doing other work, if you're quick you might need to lower the spring). Swap out the bushings and washers to the new ones. Drop the bolt through the knuckle. Carefully raise the spring till the bolt is sufficiently through the hole that you can fit the lower bushing, washer and start the nut. Once you have the nut on far enough, tighten it up to the point the same number of threads are exposed and put in the cotter key. Put on the wheel and snug the lug nuts.
Now do the same thing on the other side. Once both are done, take the car off the jackstands and lower the car. Tighten the lug nuts take drive it a few blocks. Recheck your lug nuts and check your wheelwell to floor distance. You may have to do some later adjustments due to the difference in thickness of the bushings.
That's it.
06-24-2018, 06:29 AM
#4
Safety Car
Here's something I found when I was going to do my rear end rebuild the other year: http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...d.php?t=144562
It goes through replacing u-joints, hubs etc. There's some good info there, shows a lot on how to disassemble and repair many of the parts. It may not cover exactly what you are planning to do, but it may be of value. I found it helpful when I did mine.
I claim no credit for it, just hopefully helping you and others along. Personally I printed it off and have it in my FSM in case I need again it in the future.
PS as someone that doesn't drink much any more, be more like a soda.
It goes through replacing u-joints, hubs etc. There's some good info there, shows a lot on how to disassemble and repair many of the parts. It may not cover exactly what you are planning to do, but it may be of value. I found it helpful when I did mine.
I claim no credit for it, just hopefully helping you and others along. Personally I printed it off and have it in my FSM in case I need again it in the future.
PS as someone that doesn't drink much any more, be more like a soda.
Last edited by hcbph; 06-24-2018 at 07:02 AM.
