confab

1) Use the 4L60E pressure plates.

2) Most of those drums are warped, and believe it or not, it is not a huge issue. If you want to fix it, spin it up on a lathe and hit it with 80 grit, but on the street you won't notice the difference in operation.

kitttransam

Gibbles

I did my 3-4 clutch pack pretty tight, i followed the instructions from my transgo shift kit (2-3 with optional stick shift).
i also used a selective clutch pack kit with a thinner top plate alomg with the later bonded piston and spring pack.

I'm blury on the details, however I got either 7 or 8 clutches stuffed in there...

I also ran the rest of the clutches pretty tight, maybe .005 looser than i ran the 3-4 pack.

I also ran the red clutches with the coated steels (kolene i believe).

Shifts crazy fast, super solid especially on the 2-3 shift.
almost painful if i'm light on the throttle...

Sonnax also makes a corrected tv wire, it allows me to run my tv adjustment pretty loose for light throttle, but still nice and solid for WOT.

I still find i like shifting manually now, instant reaction to my input, and i like blipping the throttle for downshifts.

Gibbles

Also, the early low/reverse piston in the back of the case is prone to breakage, resulting in the loss of reverse.
not sure if yours has the issue, however it's covered in the atsg manual.

I also have the manual in a pdf, the update, and the stuff for the 4l60e.
I would have to look at the file size, but it's an option if needed.

Sonnax also makes some selective shims, both for the front of the trans, and the back.
​​​​​​​My 84 trans was VERY sloppy...

Gibbles

Aaand...
the later apply plate is good, and you do not need to use the thicker steels!!

​​​​​​​This gives you more space to fit more clutches if you wish!

Gibbles

I found i have these on my phone, from my shift kit...
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Gibbles

Gibbles

There is another sheet that covers the 3-4 pack, but it's not on my phone, and the camera on my phone is fkd...

Here is my solution for resizing the one piece teflon seals on the input shaft, electrical tape!

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Gibbles

Also, the bearing on the input drum is upside down in the above image.

To get the one piece seal larger, use a funnel to stretch it out a little.
​​​​​​​the type for the transmission fill is pretty much perfect.

kitttransam

kitttransam

Gibbles

Sounds like a good plan.
i used thicker steels and clutches in the middle of my pack, then used the thinner ones out towards the ends.
My stuff was a mix, so far so good.
a little bang shifty, but super solid and sexy up shifts wot, however i'm also not stock...
​​​​​​​
Also, air check it before final assembly, the atsg manual shows how via the pump housing.

kitttransam

Gibbles

On mine, i needed a tiny bit more clearance so i sanded a clutch thinner using my mic to verify it was as close to even as possible.

In the end it worked out, but it was sure iffy lol!

Also they make thinner steels, i had some very thin steels and clutches, however i used the red clutches, and the coated steels are supposed to handle heat better.

If you lived by me, i would let you go through my left overs.

Even if you end you end up taking a part two or three, it's totally worth it!

The transmission was really the only thing that worried me with my car.
Now i can beat on it totally guilt free! :d

confab

It's freestyle. Frankly. I have the Alto Red lineup in mine. There's the "Z Pac" and many options for the 3/4. All of them work on the street.

A "kolene" steel is one that can take more heat and they are standard in newer models. I like the new PP and apply plates because they are rigid, but, you can't go wrong here if the pressure is good.

Whatever you do, do not dip below 3-5 thou clearance per plate.. Because you can get burn from lack of lube if the clearance is too tight. 45-50 is fine on the clearance..

Remember, these are NOT a wear surface.. It is not like the clutch in a stick shift or the brake pad. Take your knife to an old one.. See what I mean? The trick is they ride on a microscopic layer of ATF and, ideally, they never touch... Because they're (Or used to be.. Same difference) paper faced. If the PSI backs off, they touch and BOOM! No clutch.

So, leave room for lube and you'll be okay.

PS: If you lose pressure ANYWHERE ELSE in the 4L60, the 3/4 will burn first.. Even if the drum checks perfect. Even if anything/whatever- it's the first to go. So, seal it up good!

confab

PS: Don't take a clearance at face value.. Hit it with air.

You'll be surprised how often you can knock 10k out of a snap ring.

Leave the spring packs in the 3/4. Ignore the ATSG warning.

kitttransam

confab

Frankly? I don't like the transgo kit. And I use a lot of their stuff.

The fairbanks kit works well... But, I would just open up the feed holes a little and forego a shift kit on the street.

My car has a 1/2" boost, moded sep plate and no kit.

Gibbles

The shift kit is good, i did not like their tv mods that came with the kit.
i ended up going with Sonnax tv kit, then tuned the tv after watching some animation showing how it works.
I had issues until i got it figured out...

The best thing that came with the kit was the "high rpm" springs, and the 3-4 bleed that goes into the input drum.

The instructions do talk about a mod for the shift servo to allow faster bleed, and some valve body pate mods.

only thing i hate is when i drive the car in auto and i'm driving easy.
I usually just run full manual shifts, it lets me control when it shifts so i can avoid a bang/clunk shift.
that part, i freaking love. So much fun, especially with how the car sounds (loud).

kitttransam