Bfenty

I'm thinking I may have my motor rebuilt eventually, it runs decently well but loses oil pretty often and just in general feels tired. Car is 100% stock and I'd like to more or less keep it that way. That said, if I'm paying someone to rebuild it (I'd love to do it myself but realistically I don't have the time), what kinds of upgrades would be a good idea? Again I don't want to do anything crazy but if there's anything that's a really good idea at that point I'd love to know. Some have said I should get a cam put in, rocker arms, some have said no, I'm not really sure. I don't race the car or anything so I don't want to go crazy overboard.

Would it be better for me to try to do it myself? How much work is it for someone that's never rebuilt a motor? Am I likely to screw stuff up? I don't want the car to sit in pieces for years which I think is likely if I do it myself.

Also I was quoted $2500 for the work, parts and everything included. Does that sound reasonable? I've never had a motor rebuilt so I don't know.

This isn't something that would happen tomorrow but I'm just getting all the info so I know what I'm saving up for.

Thanks!

c4cruiser

A DIY engine rebuild may be the lowest cost way, but do you have the level of experience to do all of the work? Do you have the tools and other equipment?

Local machine shops will have a variety of engines that they can sell you or they can take your old engine and do the rebuild. Most will offer some kind of warranty, typically 90 days or even up to six months. But they may require you to use specific components as part of that warranty such as water pumps, distributors, even oils and filters.

One alternative is to simply take the car to a reputable shop and have them install a complete engine. Jasper Engines is one company that sells complete replacement engines and their engines come with a 3 year, 100,000 miles warranty. The shop where I worked used Jasper for all of their engine replacement jobs and in nearly every case, a customer would make the appointment, they called Jasper and an engine was delivered the following business day. Once the engine was in-house, it would take usually one work day to do the removal and install. FWIW, Jasper also has a line of performance engines that they can custom build.

Bfenty

TheBlaster9001

2500 seems pretty fair for a rebuild, but that also depends on what all gets rebuilt. If it includes all seals and all wear items, then I'd say that's fair.

I've rebuilt two big (non-single cylinder) engines, one was a flathead Ford, the other was a 400 small block Ford. It isn't terribly hard, but very time consuming. And yes, the tendency for the project to stall is real. It is a time investment, but is very rewarding when you fire it up for the first time. As long as you double check everything, and take your time, you can get it done without screwing anything up. It helps a lot if you know how to use precision measuring tools, if you rebuild using a manual, it will have loads of sizing specs to adhere to. Half of the time spent is measuring, sanding/polishing, and re-measuring.

As for what to change on the engine, I would recommend going for a little power now so you don't regret it later. Unless you are totally content with the stock engine's performance, which is fine. I'd shoot for a bigger cam, rockers, and headers. Also, it may help to have someone port the intake/plenum/heads since you will have it apart.

TheBlaster9001

c4crusier raises a very good point with the tools required for a rebuild. I had all the tools and experience rebuilding single-cylinder engines from the get-go, I know all the measuring equipment alone I used was worth more than a thousand bucks.

I would try and keep the original block. I couldn't find prices on Jasper's site, but crate 350s start around 2k. I think that you'd be able to handle 350 horsepower without worrying too much about the drivetrain.

84 4+3

I did it. I went 383 though. There aren't that many special tools (unless you do it right) required. It was fun but we did it for a c3500. If you want to watch the playlist of mediocrity is here... Nothing like hearing your baby fire on all 8 for the first time in 3 years.

Bfenty

Yeah I figured buying another engine would be more expensive than a rebuild. $2500 is still a little steep for me these days but it gives me something to think about, anyway.

Need A Vette

I've rebuilt several engines in the past, a 6 cylinder chevrolet, 2 small block chevrolets, and a small block ford, All are pretty easy, and I built all while I was in the Army. If it isnt your daily driver, I'd pull the engine, tear it apart, do any machine work, and reassemble, this can normally be done in a week of evenings...Lower End & Cam / Timing gear first, Cover it up for protection, then set the heads (after they were rebuilt), and you're ready to install. It isn't terribly difficult, and it's easy to get into the While I'm at it...but just stay focused, and HAVE A PLAN to start with.

D.

Bfenty

slammin

An engine stand is a must. You can rent a hoist, but with prices at HF, buy one use it and get some of your money back on CL if you don't you'll ever need it again.

vader86

Hard to recommend without knowing what you want. I know you like having the car original from your prior posts. To make real power gains there are things that are on it that need to go bye-bye.

An 85 engine is choked by the '624 heads. Those need to go away. Basically anything would be better. Preferably you'd find yourself some 88-91 '113 heads and have those freshened.

If I were doing a rebuild, no matter what I'd have it balanced and blueprinted. On an 85 I'd increase compression ratio with the heads, but leave the stock forged TRW pistons in there if possible.

I would not recommend doing this unless you have someone local to lean on for questions and in-person help, considering you have not done it before.

65Z01

Were I doing it I'd go with working the stock heads, a little better cam & lifters, etc. and bored out to 355cid. Combine that with FL headers, etc. you should be able to hit ~350chp or a wee bit more.

DGXR

Since this is your first rebuild, I would recommend not doing it alone. Either do it with an experienced mechanic or have a good shop do it for you.

$2500 is a fair price if it also includes pulling and reinstalling the motor, plus a good warranty... basically that price should buy a full service rebuild, that the shop/mechanic fully stands behind.

About parts upgrades: based on the way you use the car, I suggest standard replacement parts. These engines are pretty tough and last a very long time with basic maintenance. If the standard part is unavailable, then of course get the upgraded part. Core parts that are within spec can be reconditioned and reused (crank, cam, heads). Parts that are out of spec of course should be replaced.

c4cruiser

How about contacting a local Corvette Club and see if a few members would consider helping you out? Crank up the BBQ and offer free beer! There should be clubs in both Nashville and Bowling Green. You can ask about mods or just a stock rebuild and start getting prices for parts. Find a reputable engine shop and get some quotes on machine work and assembly. You might want to consider using your own block so it can be shown to be the engine that came in the car from BG.

As mentioned, you can rent an engine hoist to pull the engine out. At this point, you can return the hoist. You will need one again when the engine is ready to go back in the car. An engine stand is a big help if you want to do disassembly and again if you want to assemble the engine yourself. The best bet may be just taking the engine to a machine shop and let them do everything.

If you don't already have the Factory Service Manual, get the set. There will be detailed information about engine assembly and torque specs. For tools, a good set of wrenches and sockets will be needed. Some socket extensions in both 1/2" and 3/8" drive will be needed. Ratchets in those sizes too. A torque wrench will be needed if you do your own assembly but some auto parts stores like AutoZone will rent them to you. What's neat about this company is that you put a deposit on the tool and when you bring it back in good condition, you get all of your deposit back!

Keep thinking about how much you would like to do and keep posting. You'll get some good advice from the C4 clan!!

RandomTask

$2500 seems about right, depending on what needs to be done. I doubt that would include removal and install but should include assembling it back to a longblock.



Things can escalate quickly. Last motor I did had ~80k miles. They had to hone 0.004” before the cylinders became straight; at that point, it was better to punch it out 0.030” and get new pistons.



You first need to establish your goals – are you going for a completely stock build? Do you want a little more oomph?

Then, once you have what your goals are in mind, THEN you can start making better decisions as to how to approach the rebuild. The first thing they need to do, is go through the motor and figure out what needs to be done. Are the decks flat? How eccentric are the bores? (Do you need to punch it out?) Whats the overall condition of your parts?



As someone said, if you’re switching the heads, then you’ll probably have to retune. Do you have someone local that can tune it for you?



How much work you want to pay for is all dependent upon how ambitious you are. Putting a motor together isn’t rocket surgery, you just need to be super **** about your clearances and have the tools to check everything (bore gauge, dial indicator for end play, micrometer to measure pistons, etc). I personally, would suggest you have them put it together from a warranty perspective, think you’d be happier that way.



My overall suggestion:

Check to see if you can get a crate motor to replace it. Less of a hassle, just buy one from summit. IIRC, should be around $3800. If not . . .





Get the better flowing heads and have THOSE freshened up. (No use and throwing good money at bad parts).

Have the bores checked; hone with a torque plate.

Have them check the crank – If all it needs is a polish, don’t pay to have them cut it.

Get it balanced with the flywheel this is the key to reliability. My LT4 was out over 2oz’s; I had it balanced to within a gram.

Don’t splurge on fancy pistons if req’d. Unless you’re going high HP, no need on going forged.

ARP the con rod bolts; don’t need ARP on anything else.

Don’t pay for work you don’t’ need. If your decks are flat, don’t let them convince you to cut the decks ‘because it’s standard practice’. As long as it’s good w/ no damage (get a seal), it will be fine.



Good luck!

cv67

If you can find a local guy thats a 1 or 2 man shop a stockish rebuild doesnt cost much, under 2k. They can get parts cheaper than you can, have them do the whole thing after you yank the motor.
Have them do the upgrades you want, shop for heads...even a good iron aftermarket is better than what you have. Who says you dont need guides, have sunken seats, micro cracks? Not really any material to do any worthwhile porting on. A set of Iron eagles with some minor cleanup work will do well with a touch more cam/compression . If you are stuck for cash put it together then save to port the intake later.
Number of guys who can still tune the 85s..headers are a plus, good used ones are fine.
An Elgin cam is super cheap, have the machinist get it.
Building your own can be fun but buying all the right tools to do it yourself gets cost prohibitive fast.

mtwoolford

What year engine? Pre 86? flat tappet cams; post 1986 factory roller cam with one piece rear seal; 92 on LT based engines. It makes a difference; you need to know what your shopping for.

Bfenty

Thanks for all the great replies! I'm learning a lot here.

It sounds like this may be beyond me a bit. Like I said, I'm just doing the research at this point, but it sounds like while for some this would be an easy thing to do (with the right experience and tools), I'm probably not the guy to do it.

My goals would be improvements where it makes sense without going overboard. In general I want to stay close to stock, but a few upgrades would be great. If I beat 300 hp that would be awesome, but really I don't drive this car rough at all-I baby it actually.

I've already got forged pistons so I'd probably keep those (they were stock on '85). Heads sounds like a good idea. A mild cam as well. The guy I took it to actually said that a cam was a bad idea. He said the car never seems to run right with a cam swap (he's THE guy for old chevy motors in this area and comes highly recommended)-however I see people on here suggesting it. I don't think he does tunes and I wouldn't know where to get a tune.

While a crate motor is appealing, it is A) no longer factory original at that point, which matters to me even if it's a stupid thing to care about and B) will probably blow my budget out of the water. $2500 sounds like it's a reasonable price and I'm still having sticker shock-that's almost what I spent on the car!

Anyway that's me rambling. Thank you for all the information. Might be a few months before I spring for anything but I'll post back when I do.

Bfenty

It's a 1985-sorry I post often enough that people usually know my car, but I should have stated that for clarity

84 4+3

If the bore is clean enough to reuse the factory pistons it should be a lot less than 2500 imo. You won't be buying new internals at that point but rather reusing and cleaning them up.

Anyway, if you do better heads with a little work and a mild cam you should be able to get to low 300 and still have stockish characteristics. You will need a tune so it wouldn't hurt to find someone who can dyno and then burn one even if you have to drive a bit.