How to Install New Fuel Lines with Mininum Hassle
07-21-2018, 02:09 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
How to Install New Fuel Lines with Mininum Hassle
Fellow Corvetters:
I've just installed new stainless steel fuel lines on my '91 and did it without a lift or any specisl tools, so I thought I'ld share a few tips with you. To begin with, I removed all the suspension components on the right side of the car, which I had to do anyway to put new poly bushings, etc in. Then I removed the piece of square tubing that supports the emergency brake cable. Next I unscrewed all the clamps on the fuel feed line between the gas tank and the fuel filter. Now here's the trick part... most folks probably try to pull the fuel lines out through the frame members, and maybe even make a rew cuts along the way. You don't need to do it! If you'll study the path of the fuel lines, you discover that they can be slid up between the front batwing mounting tab and the frame kick down. In essence, that area, which is kind of hidden from view, is like a semi-circular "chamber" that the fuel lines sit inside of to pass over the half shafts. If done right, the tubing behind the batwing mounting point will fall right into place regardless of all the twists and turns, and the foreward tubing will just about fall into place in the "trench" under the door. Admittedly, this techique did not fall out of the sky and hit me on the head. Rather, it took about an hour or two of fiddling around and looking before I finally realized how the job could be done. The whole key to it is being willing to remove your right side suspension components so that the tubing can be pushed up inside the recess/chamber/area (your choice!) between the outside of the foot well and the inside of the frame. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy!
SnorT91Man
I've just installed new stainless steel fuel lines on my '91 and did it without a lift or any specisl tools, so I thought I'ld share a few tips with you. To begin with, I removed all the suspension components on the right side of the car, which I had to do anyway to put new poly bushings, etc in. Then I removed the piece of square tubing that supports the emergency brake cable. Next I unscrewed all the clamps on the fuel feed line between the gas tank and the fuel filter. Now here's the trick part... most folks probably try to pull the fuel lines out through the frame members, and maybe even make a rew cuts along the way. You don't need to do it! If you'll study the path of the fuel lines, you discover that they can be slid up between the front batwing mounting tab and the frame kick down. In essence, that area, which is kind of hidden from view, is like a semi-circular "chamber" that the fuel lines sit inside of to pass over the half shafts. If done right, the tubing behind the batwing mounting point will fall right into place regardless of all the twists and turns, and the foreward tubing will just about fall into place in the "trench" under the door. Admittedly, this techique did not fall out of the sky and hit me on the head. Rather, it took about an hour or two of fiddling around and looking before I finally realized how the job could be done. The whole key to it is being willing to remove your right side suspension components so that the tubing can be pushed up inside the recess/chamber/area (your choice!) between the outside of the foot well and the inside of the frame. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy!
SnorT91Man
Last edited by SnorT91Man; 07-21-2018 at 03:02 PM. Reason: Misspelling
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Red 91 (07-21-2018)
07-21-2018, 02:30 PM
#2
Melting Slicks
Is the factory line steel going through there with rubber connectors at the ends? I worry more about the rubber than the steel. I looked at the rubber lines by the water pump and talk about shaky looking..yikes..
07-21-2018, 08:55 PM
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Reply
Because the fuel supply and fuel return lines are connected together, they are both installed simultaneously, meaning the rubber lines on the ends are never pushed or pulled through anything. Rather, it's more like lining the tubing up on the floor and then
lifting it straight up so that the tube with the kick-up over the half shafts can be inserted into the space between the footwell and the frame. It is much easier to do if a buddy can support the front end while you're working on the rear end. The reason this works is because you remove all the impediments that would otherwise block the tubing when you remove the righthand side suspension and emergency brake stuff. Hope this clarifies things for you.
SnorT91Man
lifting it straight up so that the tube with the kick-up over the half shafts can be inserted into the space between the footwell and the frame. It is much easier to do if a buddy can support the front end while you're working on the rear end. The reason this works is because you remove all the impediments that would otherwise block the tubing when you remove the righthand side suspension and emergency brake stuff. Hope this clarifies things for you.
SnorT91Man
Last edited by SnorT91Man; 07-21-2018 at 08:59 PM. Reason: Misspelling
07-22-2018, 12:41 AM
#4
Melting Slicks
What I was asking and think you answered is the lines as stock metal where you can't see them with rubber hose connected to the metal sections and can see the rubber lines and clamps. In other words are there hidden rubber lines?
07-29-2018, 02:12 PM
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Follow-Up to My Original Wiring Harness Post
One step I failed to mention in my original post was that I also removed the fuel tank prior to removing and installing the new lines. The lines wrap around the tank, which makes removing them difficult with the tank in place.
SnorT91Man
SnorT91Man