Champion radiator installation and fit...
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Champion radiator installation and fit...
This is in regard to a 1996 CE Coupe, LT4/ZF6...
Okay, not to be rude, but I know I am going to get a lot of replies like "Dewitt's", and not much else...but honestly, I can't and won't spend $500 on a replacement radiator right now.
With that out of the way...My radiator was leaking. "Why not upgrade", I thought. I went middle of the road, and got a Champion 3-row. Maybe shoulda gone 2-row, but we're past that point. Trimmed the bushings on bottom towards the condenser, then trimmed the plastic surrounding that area as it's thicker than stock.
Trimmed the top shroud bushings, and used a little foam, as it's about 1/4" shorter than stock too. All in all, a lousy fit! Looks like I either need to trim more towards the condensor, or trim my fan frame...which I am not doing.
I'd like to hear from anyone that has installed this same 3-row radiator. Are you satisfied with fit? Seems some just pop it on top of the bushings and bolt it down, but I'm not comfortable with that fit. I'd like it to be cradled in the bushings like the stock one is.
Thanks for any helpful input...
Okay, not to be rude, but I know I am going to get a lot of replies like "Dewitt's", and not much else...but honestly, I can't and won't spend $500 on a replacement radiator right now.
With that out of the way...My radiator was leaking. "Why not upgrade", I thought. I went middle of the road, and got a Champion 3-row. Maybe shoulda gone 2-row, but we're past that point. Trimmed the bushings on bottom towards the condenser, then trimmed the plastic surrounding that area as it's thicker than stock.
Trimmed the top shroud bushings, and used a little foam, as it's about 1/4" shorter than stock too. All in all, a lousy fit! Looks like I either need to trim more towards the condensor, or trim my fan frame...which I am not doing.
I'd like to hear from anyone that has installed this same 3-row radiator. Are you satisfied with fit? Seems some just pop it on top of the bushings and bolt it down, but I'm not comfortable with that fit. I'd like it to be cradled in the bushings like the stock one is.
Thanks for any helpful input...
#2
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
This is in regard to a 1996 CE Coupe, LT4/ZF6...
Okay, not to be rude, but I know I am going to get a lot of replies like "Dewitt's", and not much else...but honestly, I can't and won't spend $500 on a replacement radiator right now.
With that out of the way...My radiator was leaking. "Why not upgrade", I thought. I went middle of the road, and got a Champion 3-row. Maybe shoulda gone 2-row, but we're past that point. Trimmed the bushings on bottom towards the condenser, then trimmed the plastic surrounding that area as it's thicker than stock.
Trimmed the top shroud bushings, and used a little foam, as it's about 1/4" shorter than stock too. All in all, a lousy fit! Looks like I either need to trim more towards the condensor, or trim my fan frame...which I am not doing.
I'd like to hear from anyone that has installed this same 3-row radiator. Are you satisfied with fit? Seems some just pop it on top of the bushings and bolt it down, but I'm not comfortable with that fit. I'd like it to be cradled in the bushings like the stock one is.
Thanks for any helpful input...
Okay, not to be rude, but I know I am going to get a lot of replies like "Dewitt's", and not much else...but honestly, I can't and won't spend $500 on a replacement radiator right now.
With that out of the way...My radiator was leaking. "Why not upgrade", I thought. I went middle of the road, and got a Champion 3-row. Maybe shoulda gone 2-row, but we're past that point. Trimmed the bushings on bottom towards the condenser, then trimmed the plastic surrounding that area as it's thicker than stock.
Trimmed the top shroud bushings, and used a little foam, as it's about 1/4" shorter than stock too. All in all, a lousy fit! Looks like I either need to trim more towards the condensor, or trim my fan frame...which I am not doing.
I'd like to hear from anyone that has installed this same 3-row radiator. Are you satisfied with fit? Seems some just pop it on top of the bushings and bolt it down, but I'm not comfortable with that fit. I'd like it to be cradled in the bushings like the stock one is.
Thanks for any helpful input...
#3
Racer
I can't help with your fitment issue, but I do have a leftover '95 radiator shroud and cover that's already been cobbled up a little bit (under where the air filter housing covers). Not sure where you're located, but I can make you a deal on these pieces if you want to cobble them up further. Also have the stock radiator and condenser, but it doesn't sound like you need those. Let me know.
Regards,
John
Regards,
John
#4
Not doing too well here, so I guess I'll open it up a bit. How about any 3-row replacement, or the 2-row Champion? I've seen posts about installing aftermarket radiators. Anyone with fitment issues? How did you resolve? I've got a back-up plan, but hoping to get some input before going any further...
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racerseks (08-06-2018)
#5
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St. Jude Donor '05
Count on having to do something, most aftermarket Bolt On parts dont unless you screw with something.
True, some just stuff parts in and they work, if you want it "right" spend a little time on it. They say 2 rows are better than 3 but gotta imagine eithe are better than the stock one is.
You may need a stronger fan to pull the air through a thicker core. Or not-
You may find overall running temps arent much different but when moving or the fan running temps will drop quicker. Put a DeWitts in an A body that was my experience.
Wish they made a reasonable priced one for the 00-up Chevy truck. $900? Ill pass.
True, some just stuff parts in and they work, if you want it "right" spend a little time on it. They say 2 rows are better than 3 but gotta imagine eithe are better than the stock one is.
You may need a stronger fan to pull the air through a thicker core. Or not-
You may find overall running temps arent much different but when moving or the fan running temps will drop quicker. Put a DeWitts in an A body that was my experience.
Wish they made a reasonable priced one for the 00-up Chevy truck. $900? Ill pass.
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I can't help with your fitment issue, but I do have a leftover '95 radiator shroud and cover that's already been cobbled up a little bit (under where the air filter housing covers). Not sure where you're located, but I can make you a deal on these pieces if you want to cobble them up further. Also have the stock radiator and condenser, but it doesn't sound like you need those. Let me know.
Regards,
John
Regards,
John
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I installed a Champion 3-row in my '96. It did require more trimming than they lead you to believe. I did hafta trim the fiberglass/smc that the bottom cushions rest in. Also had to trim top cushions, if memory serves me well. But don't think I had to trim top shroud itself. I didn't hafta touch fan shroud, at all. If you are thinking about resale value, you could buy used parts, to cut up, and save originals.
Sounds pretty much what I did, but might have to take a bit more out on the bottom fiberglass (?) part where the bushings are. Is that part fiberglass, or plastic?
Yea, you're led to believe you just have to trim the bushings, but it won't fit right with that alone. I started trimming the bottom "tub" a bit, and just not sure if I want to take more off or not. Have any pics? Were you able to get a fit you're satisfied with?
Thanks!
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Count on having to do something, most aftermarket Bolt On parts dont unless you screw with something.
True, some just stuff parts in and they work, if you want it "right" spend a little time on it. They say 2 rows are better than 3 but gotta imagine eithe are better than the stock one is.
You may need a stronger fan to pull the air through a thicker core. Or not-
You may find overall running temps arent much different but when moving or the fan running temps will drop quicker. Put a DeWitts in an A body that was my experience.
Wish they made a reasonable priced one for the 00-up Chevy truck. $900? Ill pass.
True, some just stuff parts in and they work, if you want it "right" spend a little time on it. They say 2 rows are better than 3 but gotta imagine eithe are better than the stock one is.
You may need a stronger fan to pull the air through a thicker core. Or not-
You may find overall running temps arent much different but when moving or the fan running temps will drop quicker. Put a DeWitts in an A body that was my experience.
Wish they made a reasonable priced one for the 00-up Chevy truck. $900? Ill pass.
That's what I am thinking, It doesn't really seem like that much of an upgrade...for the hassle it has been. A stock one would drop right in, and I'd have been back on the road in a couple of hours.Seems no matter what brand you go with, there's some cutting and fitment issues to deal with...and the "upgrade" of it "maybe" cooling just a bit faster, is probably not worth the hassle of wondering about the fit...in my opinion.
Thanks for your input!
#9
Thanks for the input!
Sounds pretty much what I did, but might have to take a bit more out on the bottom fiberglass (?) part where the bushings are. Is that part fiberglass, or plastic?
Yea, you're led to believe you just have to trim the bushings, but it won't fit right with that alone. I started trimming the bottom "tub" a bit, and just not sure if I want to take more off or not. Have any pics? Were you able to get a fit you're satisfied with?
Thanks!
Sounds pretty much what I did, but might have to take a bit more out on the bottom fiberglass (?) part where the bushings are. Is that part fiberglass, or plastic?
Yea, you're led to believe you just have to trim the bushings, but it won't fit right with that alone. I started trimming the bottom "tub" a bit, and just not sure if I want to take more off or not. Have any pics? Were you able to get a fit you're satisfied with?
Thanks!
Last edited by Courtney H.; 08-07-2018 at 01:45 AM. Reason: Needed additional input.
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racerseks (08-07-2018)
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I'm not sure what that black material is. Might be considered plastic. But it seems to have a fiberglass-like quality to it. I know the body panels(fenders, etc), are called smc "sheet molded compound". Yes, I got it to fit great, by trimming as much as necessary at the bottom. I was impressed with my work, to be honest, considering it was more involved than anticipated. I recommend the Champion radiator, to anyone. The only reason I was skeptical of it, was because it was so much cheaper than DeWitt's, Be Cool, Griffin... Keep at it, you will be pleased when you are done. Also, the best part of the upgrade is that you have a stronger radiator. The stock units plastic tanks are trouble waiting to happen. That's where mine blew. The stock unit also seems to be the absolute minimum they felt would get the job done. No wiggle room, as far as performance upgrades in my opinion. And if someone didn't maintain their car well, cooling efficiency would degrade rapidly.
It does seem to need to be cut quite a bit down there, with the border for the bushings and all. How did you go about it? I did a lot of measuring etc., but it still seems to need to go forward more., I hate taking that shroud off over and over again to test fit...especially around those AC lines...With 20-30+ year old plastics...that's when stuff breaks.
I hear ya...I don't go cheapest, and I don't go costliest. I always go for best value, and this seemed to be it. They all seem to need to be modded anyway. Have not seen any aftermarket performance replacements that just drop in.
Mine too...leaking on passenger side tank. Would have left it in otherwise.
Okay, thanks again...any info, pics etc., on how you got a satisfying fit appreciated.
#11
I was gonna ask what "SMC" was, so thanks for addressing that. Yea, it does have some sort of fibers in it it, and it does make you itchy.
It does seem to need to be cut quite a bit down there, with the border for the bushings and all. How did you go about it? I did a lot of measuring etc., but it still seems to need to go forward more., I hate taking that shroud off over and over again to test fit...especially around those AC lines...With 20-30+ year old plastics...that's when stuff breaks.
I hear ya...I don't go cheapest, and I don't go costliest. I always go for best value, and this seemed to be it. They all seem to need to be modded anyway. Have not seen any aftermarket performance replacements that just drop in.
Mine too...leaking on passenger side tank. Would have left it in otherwise.
Okay, thanks again...any info, pics etc., on how you got a satisfying fit appreciated.
It does seem to need to be cut quite a bit down there, with the border for the bushings and all. How did you go about it? I did a lot of measuring etc., but it still seems to need to go forward more., I hate taking that shroud off over and over again to test fit...especially around those AC lines...With 20-30+ year old plastics...that's when stuff breaks.
I hear ya...I don't go cheapest, and I don't go costliest. I always go for best value, and this seemed to be it. They all seem to need to be modded anyway. Have not seen any aftermarket performance replacements that just drop in.
Mine too...leaking on passenger side tank. Would have left it in otherwise.
Okay, thanks again...any info, pics etc., on how you got a satisfying fit appreciated.
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racerseks (08-07-2018)
#12
Not sure why you were expecting it to be a direct bolt in. You are fitting a 3 row in a spot where a single row used to sit. You can't move it forward, so it has to be pushed back. Either you use a spacer (Like what Dewitt's supplies) or you cut the fan shroud to accept the protrusion.I looked at the instructions from Ecklers, and not to pick on them because they probably got them from Champion,
I don't know WTF they are thinking saying the factory radiator has round mounts. The top rubber mounts need to be cut to allow the thicker radiator to fit, and the bottom mounts need to be trimmed along with *ALL* the bottom plastic ridges. The rubber mount still has the retention tabs that pull through the shroud, and once everything is tightened down, it's not going anywhere.
NOTE: This Application Requires Notching The Rubber Tabs On Your Saddle Radiator Mounts To Make Them Square. This Is Because The Factory Tanks Are Molded Round And Champion Radiator Tanks Are Fabricated Square. This Modification Can Easily Be Performed By A Qualified Mechanic. Click Photo To See Thumbnail Of Before And After Modification.
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Not sure why you were expecting it to be a direct bolt in. You are fitting a 3 row in a spot where a single row used to sit. You can't move it forward, so it has to be pushed back. Either you use a spacer (Like what Dewitt's supplies) or you cut the fan shroud to accept the protrusion.I looked at the instructions from Ecklers, and not to pick on them because they probably got them from Champion,
I don't know WTF they are thinking saying the factory radiator has round mounts. The top rubber mounts need to be cut to allow the thicker radiator to fit, and the bottom mounts need to be trimmed along with *ALL* the bottom plastic ridges. The rubber mount still has the retention tabs that pull through the shroud, and once everything is tightened down, it's not going anywhere.
I don't know WTF they are thinking saying the factory radiator has round mounts. The top rubber mounts need to be cut to allow the thicker radiator to fit, and the bottom mounts need to be trimmed along with *ALL* the bottom plastic ridges. The rubber mount still has the retention tabs that pull through the shroud, and once everything is tightened down, it's not going anywhere.
I was never expecting a direct fit, but as your quote points out, it only mentions cutting the bushings...and it's not because they're square. It's because, as you pointed out...the thickness. Never says anything about having to cut into the shroud or tub. Had I known that, I would have just gone with a factory type replacement. $75, and just replace it whenever the tanks leak. First one lasted 22 years...good enough for me at $75. Plus, it's really not that big of a deal to swap once you've done it. All the cutting and measuring is much more work...and I'm just not that convinced there's much to gain, if anything...Certainly not at $500, in my opinion.
There is some space to move it forward a bit. I'm sure that's how it was accomplished without the spacers mentioned.
Yes, I agree on your last fitment declaration...
I got it now, so I'll probably follow through. Wouldn't do it again though. Really hate chopping my car up.
Thank you.
Last edited by racerseks; 08-07-2018 at 04:19 AM.
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Sorry, I didn't take any pics. And that was how I did it, many trial fittings. You want the cushions to be protruding just a wee bit above the plastic edge that surrounds it, so it doesn't contact the tanks. If I remember right, there was a minimal amount of the hard plastic edge left, when I was satisfied. Just enough to keep the cushions from moving or wiggling. You want only the rubber cushions touching the radiator. My a/c was evacuated anyway, so I had disconnected the fittings, to gimme more room to work.
#15
I have the Champion 3 row in my 94, it’s been too many years for me to remember exactly what had to be done to install it but I do remember trimming bushings and possibly some plastic. It does fit and once installed you wouldn’t know that it wasn’t an exact fit. Years on, no issues. I thought the quality of the radiator to be very good with really nice welds.
#16
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St. Jude Donor '05
The aluminum should be better than that wafter thin thing GM called a radiator, it will be worth it long term.
Mines 16 yrs old cant believe it hasnt split yet just havent seen a fair value on an alum. replacement yet.
Maybe a perfect stocker and good fan is enough but like said, doesnt seem to be any room for errror. 230 or 240 degrees is not "normal" in my book, too thats freaking hot and shortens the life of everythign under the hood!
Mines 16 yrs old cant believe it hasnt split yet just havent seen a fair value on an alum. replacement yet.
Maybe a perfect stocker and good fan is enough but like said, doesnt seem to be any room for errror. 230 or 240 degrees is not "normal" in my book, too thats freaking hot and shortens the life of everythign under the hood!
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I have the Champion 3 row in my 94, it’s been too many years for me to remember exactly what had to be done to install it but I do remember trimming bushings and possibly some plastic. It does fit and once installed you wouldn’t know that it wasn’t an exact fit. Years on, no issues. I thought the quality of the radiator to be very good with really nice welds.
#19
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The aluminum should be better than that wafter thin thing GM called a radiator, it will be worth it long term.
Mines 16 yrs old cant believe it hasnt split yet just havent seen a fair value on an alum. replacement yet.
Maybe a perfect stocker and good fan is enough but like said, doesnt seem to be any room for errror. 230 or 240 degrees is not "normal" in my book, too thats freaking hot and shortens the life of everythign under the hood!
Mines 16 yrs old cant believe it hasnt split yet just havent seen a fair value on an alum. replacement yet.
Maybe a perfect stocker and good fan is enough but like said, doesnt seem to be any room for errror. 230 or 240 degrees is not "normal" in my book, too thats freaking hot and shortens the life of everythign under the hood!
#20
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter